shayne808
shayne808
1/18/21 7:57 p.m.

I am looking to buy after market wheels (upgrade to 20"). I think these will fit on my tesla but there are so many things I am not sure about. Could someone please confirm these wheels will fit. I appreciate it. Not sure if these 20x10 will fit.
I see the stock Center Bore is 64.1.
But the wheel I want to buy is 76.1, hence CB76.1.

Anyone have know if I need spacers and any reccomendations on where to buy? 


TSW SEBRING 20x10.0 5x114.3 ET40 CB76.1 MATTE BLACK | eBay

They are 20x10 with 5x114.3. And an ET40.

I was using this site for guidelines for the 20s
The Tesla Model Y Wheel and Tire Guide. Complete Tesla Model Y Wheel Specs. - T Sportline - Tesla Model S, 3, X & Y Accessories

 

bentwrench
bentwrench SuperDork
1/18/21 8:07 p.m.

If the bore is larger you can get a ring to center the wheel or run them lug-centric if possible.

If the bore is smaller you need a spacer to adapt it, or machine the wheel to fit your hubs.

shayne808
shayne808 New Reader
1/18/21 8:22 p.m.

In reply to bentwrench :

Thank you, So since the bore I am buying is larger than the stock center bore, I should get a ring to center the wheel?

Any reccomendations on where to get these rings?

79rex
79rex Reader
1/18/21 8:37 p.m.

Amazon has rings.  They are pretty basic, not much diffrence between the cheapest and more expensive.  They aren't load bearing like a spacer would be. 

flatlander937
flatlander937 HalfDork
1/18/21 9:09 p.m.

You need to confirm yourself, but if your stock lugs are a 60 degree seat, then a hubcentric ring is not really needed. It helps line stuff up when installing, but as long as you torque two opposite lug nuts hand tight before torquing the rest like normal, you'll be fine. The center bore doesn't bear any loads unless you have lug nuts coming loose.

The 60 degree seats are self centering.

Some 3/4 ton trucks use flat serrated lug nuts and absolutely need a hub bore to match the wheel center hole for instance. Toyota stock wheels are mag style lugs that don't fully self center(but come close), so also rely on the center bore to remain centered.

I have a couple thousand miles on track with aftermarket wheels and no hubcentric rings. Many hubcentric rings are plastic... If they were truly load bearing then they wouldn't last. It's merely a convenience thing when installing the wheels. With a matched center bore, it just means that when you torque the first lug nut, it automatically centers the remaining lug studs in the holes. Without the center bore right, you just need to use two lug nuts to self-center torqued lightly and it does the same thing.

 

*I will add that even though some German cars have 60 degree lug BOLTS... due to play in the threads further inwards from the wheel face, it is indeed important or at least helpful to have good quality metal hubcentric rings. Otherwise you end up with vibrations when driving. Honestly I doubt you'd lose a wheel but figured I'd mention this.

84FSP
84FSP UltraDork
1/19/21 7:47 a.m.

In addition to the above comments I would suggest you check what type of lug seat the new wheels have.  Most OEM's use a ball seat and many aftermarket wheels have a conical seat.  Not a big deal, just need to buy the right replacement lug nuts/bolts.  The hubcentric bore inserts just make wheel installation easier, I like them.

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