Help me not bork my tune/Why does my Miata stumble on tip-in?

MS tuning is all based on a good hot tune.

All the warm up and cold start parameters are based on a modifier to the hot tune.

So it a juggling act of sorts if you make changes to the hot tune it will affect the cold tune.

So making changes to the cold parameters with a poor hot tune are a waste of time.

Most dyno guys are Peak Power Junkies and they pay little attention to the part throttle and off idle transitions.

Also adjusting these areas takes much more time and effort, and the cold stuff can only be looked at once a day (season).

In my experience it takes a couple of hours to rough in a tune and make the car driveable, then months of tweaking to really get it dialed in.

A really good tune evolves over time, with the changes becoming smaller and less frequent over time. It's not a one shot thing.

I use very little acceleration enrichment, and that wall wetting stuff is a Band Aid for Throttle Body injection which you should not be using if you want good EFI performance. There is a reason the OEM no longer use that style injection! Using software to fix a hardware problem rarely has optimal results.

In reply to bentwrench :

That's a good point- since there's no transient fuel- then the fully warm version of that need to be done first, and then you can tweak in the cold.

But the concept of the calibration takes a lot of time is why I'm suggesting taking data every time you drive the car.

You're not going to Bork your tune if you do "save tune as" and accept the timestamp file name, before making any changes, and again for every significant change.

You can then easily revert back to a previous tune or open them both and compare.

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/accel-enrichment/

Just gonna put this link here, for future reference, because it seems really useful in breaking down the terms I'm reading and what I'm trying to do. The whole "full-pull in 1:1 gear" might be a little tough to do legally though

In reply to NickD :

Since you are keeping it simple, you just need a good variety of fully warmed up transients.  Some slow, some fast, big, small, etc- and just make sure there's enough fuel to not go lean and not too much fuel to cause stumble (which takes a lot of fuel- like richer than 9.5:1 for gas).  

The tip out fuel is the same thing- although don't keep out of it too long, or at least turn decel fuel cut off while tuning it.  That way you don't get it confused with other things also taking fuel out.

Shouldn't take too long ot iron out to be good enough.  And then you can see if you need any work cold or not.

Just took a quick look with excel and Accel fuel was at 100 (no added fuel) through the whole log. Can you share your msq file as well? I can take a look when I get on a computer that has actual programs on it and not this POS.

Best logs to start are fully warm, varying tip-in aggressiveness. Make sure VE table is well tuned before doing any accel work.