Difdi Al-Jabal 68
Difdi Al-Jabal 68 New Reader
8/14/21 7:26 p.m.

Help needed asap please hive!

Background: I've got mere minutes to devote to our project overlander truck before leaving South Korea at the end of the week. It came to us as a JDM Fire pumper truck. I spent the last 6 weeks getting the pump and utility box off the back (in a parking lot with hand tools and 24v DeWalt stuff).

We and the truck will be in West Africa by the end of year, where it'll see heavy use for both daily duties and expedition travel. I do not get to be involved in shipping and have to leave it with the keys in it for the next 6-9 months.

 

Two big remaining issues before I can leave it for the shippers:

1. PTO assembly is turning whenever the engine is running. I'm working through the Japanese manual and asking others that have worked on these but here's what it looks like. I successfully disconnected the shaft back to the pump and need to figure out if it should be spinning all the time. There's a whine on startup that I think is from the PTO but I'm not exactly sure - if I can get help I'll get a better listen in the next 24 hrs.

2. My emergency tools and a number of spare parts need to be secured under this bench seat for shipping. It currently lifts up with no closure device of any kind. I need to quickly devise something with minimal tools to secure the bench down to the vertical red panel. It has to be locked by either key or combination because of customs requirements. Ideally it could be something that I continue to use after shipping to make the rear seat safer, but that's a distant second priority. That may involve a bench width support beam underneath as I'm not ecstatic about the benches holding capacity in an accident.

Oh yeah, there's 5 of us, hence the quad cab. 3 tikes in the back and swmbo and I upfront. There's a joke of a front center seat that will get used inappropriately when conditions are safe ;-).

 

 

 

And since I made you wait for the pron...

It's a 2000 Toyota Dyna / Hino Dutro 300. 4.9L S05D diesel. Part-time 4x4 with 5 speed and low speed transfer case. First gear in low is tractor crawl. GVWR is 5.25t, so load capacity is approx. 2.75t. WB is 2800mm, think LR 110. Camper box on back to come - planning all composite construction. It'll be a lift roof design, roughly 8' long and just over 6' wide for East-West sleeping.

Build threads will be split between here and expeditionportal.com/forum when we've finished packing and I'm bored with my French classes in a few weeks.

 

dxman92
dxman92 Dork
8/14/21 8:27 p.m.

Put a bed on that and you've got a sweet pickup truck. yes

KiwiMtnClmbr
KiwiMtnClmbr New Reader
8/14/21 10:55 p.m.

In reply to dxman92 :

I know, that's a potential plan. Right now I need to get it ready to ship and have someone tell me if the PTO spinning is a problem or hurting anything...

 

 

 

 

This is an internet friend in CA's flatbed on the same model:

jgrewe
jgrewe HalfDork
8/14/21 11:03 p.m.

I had a Sterling semi truck that had the PTO run off of the flywheel. It had its own driveshaft that sent the power back to the pump. The driveshaft spun all the time, the pump would make pressure only when a switch was flipped. I can't tell if you are dealing with a similar system but there is a chance.

KiwiMtnClmbr
KiwiMtnClmbr New Reader
8/14/21 11:05 p.m.

In reply to jgrewe :

Thanks! My research is yielding the same results - sometimes and it depends.

jgrewe
jgrewe HalfDork
8/14/21 11:31 p.m.

You got me interested so I did some digging. I think the Shinko piece is a magnetic clutch for the PTO so I don't think the shaft should be spinning all the time.

I found this

http://www.thaitechno.net/t1/productdetails.php?id=126210&uid=38729

Is there any kind of electrical plug anywhere near it?  If you can check the coil resistance in the clutch you will be able to tell if it is a mechanical jam or electrical failure. I wonder if it fails open or engaged?

KiwiMtnClmbr
KiwiMtnClmbr New Reader
8/15/21 5:51 p.m.

In reply to jgrewe :

Thank you! I didn't even think of going this route; my brain just kept shutting down with "you don't know anything about PTOs"... turns out it is an electric clutch.

 

The guy who's flatbed I showed above removed it completely and then put a cover over the engine hole. Not sure if that's the way to go or not. It's a holiday weekend here (brand new one in fact) so I'm not sure if I can get into the lot where the truck is stored but I'm gtg try today. If not, I'll get on it tomorrow with the voltage meter. Feeling stupid right now but glad to have found help here ;-).

jgrewe
jgrewe HalfDork
8/15/21 8:05 p.m.

If you don't have any need for what the driveshaft is turning(hydraulic pump?) I would simplify the truck and remove it.

The truck I had with the driveshaft driven PTO had a failure that caused a bit of damage to the cab and stained the driver's under garments. We tried to put a larger diameter shaft on it but we couldn't because of a hole it had to pass through on the truck body.

 

KiwiMtnClmbr
KiwiMtnClmbr New Reader
8/16/21 5:25 a.m.

In reply to jgrewe :

It was originally a large high pressure water pump unit for a fire truck. I have some hopes of setting it up to run a hydraulic pump for a center mounted winch unit... the drive shaft is long since disconnected and the utility body and water pumper are gone as well.

APEowner
APEowner SuperDork
8/16/21 7:23 a.m.
KiwiMtnClmbr said:

In reply to jgrewe :

Thank you! I didn't even think of going this route; my brain just kept shutting down with "you don't know anything about PTOs"... turns out it is an electric clutch.

 

The guy who's flatbed I showed above removed it completely and then put a cover over the engine hole. Not sure if that's the way to go or not. It's a holiday weekend here (brand new one in fact) so I'm not sure if I can get into the lot where the truck is stored but I'm gtg try today. If not, I'll get on it tomorrow with the voltage meter. Feeling stupid right now but glad to have found help here ;-).

You're on the right track here.  It's worth noting that there may be enough drag in the clutch mechanism for the output shaft to turn even when disengaged.  It won't drive a load but with no driveshaft it could still turn.  With the key on but the engine off try and turn the output shaft.  If you can turn it then it's disengaged.

If you can find or fabricate a cover I'd remove the unit.  Mostly because leaving it on but unused seems wrong to me.

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