Let’s say you have a Challenge type car and you want to vinyl wrap it. Let’s say that car also has some surface rust and assorted ickiness going on. Can you just sand the rough spots, POR-15 them, and wrap right over it?
Let’s say you have a Challenge type car and you want to vinyl wrap it. Let’s say that car also has some surface rust and assorted ickiness going on. Can you just sand the rough spots, POR-15 them, and wrap right over it?
You're going to see everything underneath that isnt as smooth as if it were prepped to paint.
So...yes, you can do that. It won't be perfect. But it's still easier than paint in my opinion.
I wonder if Plastidip would be better. Maybe it would fill in the imperfections a little?
Patrick said:You're going to see everything underneath that isnt as smooth as if it were prepped to paint.
I don't think it has to be quite that smooth, but you definitely don't want paint chips or stepped layers underneath.
LanEvo said:I wonder if Plastidip would be better. Maybe it would fill in the imperfections a little?
In 2016 I used PD and wrap on my challenge entry. PD was a pain to remove and more expensive than wrap to cover similar areas. For prep I just used an orbital sander to get surface smooth but certainly not paint worthy prep. Probably 200 grit. I lucked out as the wrap was almost identical color (corvette white) as the painted portions of car I did not wrap. In my opinion wrap over my unskilled body work looked better than if I painted.
YMMV
In reply to Ovid_and_Flem :
Can you give me an idea of costs involved for the wrap? Where are sources for inexpensive wrap! If you want to have graphics done is it OK to your own wrap to the graphics shop?
In reply to frenchyd :
Best source is eBay, although I was able to source some from local graphic company from their scraps. 3M is best product but more expensive. You can order in bulk from eBay...comes in 5 foot width to any length you need. It seems it can be had for $4 and up per linear foot for solid colors...cheaper the more you buy. Can get carbon fiber, chrome, animal prints, flake, camo, etc, etc but price goes up.on print patterns.
You can apply graphics directly to wrapped surface. Becomes very pricey if you want graphics applied directly to wrap.
Are you planning on wrapping entire car or just sections?
Addendum...just did a quick search on ebay and off brand (non 3m) solid color was $65 for a 5' x 20' roll.
In reply to Ovid_and_Flem : my thoughts were to a few sections. I'd like chrome to compliment the rest of the polished aluminum body. Fenders and cowl
In reply to frenchyd :
Like a lotus 7?
Since it's relatively small area I'd spend a few bucks extra and get 3m. Make sure you order right texture because it comes in chrome, aluminum, brushed aluminum, stainless, satin etc.
Imperfection add extra sticker on top
Karl La Follette said:Imperfection add extra sticker on top
That's what Pete did on corvette entry this year where limb fell on it.
Look at the "Civic Tape R" my buddies campaign for WRL.
THey just use different colors of masking tape.
I have a car that has some clear coat peeling. If I sand (wetsand) the clearcoat with 2000 grit and the clear coat the paint and then wetsand and buff, will that make a good foundation to put the vinyl down ?
It's funny ... I started this thread a few years ago and I couldn't remember which car I was referring to! I've had a bunch of ratty projects over the years.
I think this was the TR6 project. Sold it on a couple of months ago. Digging into the TR4 now. I think I'm going with tractor paint, but still undecided.
In reply to LanEvo :
As a Racer I can tell you that a semi decent sand job and lacquer paint job is the fastest way to acceptable paint. I won some best paint awards with my first paint job . That was back in 1973. And today that car still looks respectable enough to drive to the weekly car show around here.
Oh and if you go to Pebble beach the really high dollar restorations still use lacquer. Money wise a small car will cost about $300 done in Lacquer. As long as you use solid colors you can do local touch ups a lacquer paint job years after you painted it.*
The nice thing about Lacquer is how fast it dries. Push the car outside and spray away on a not too windy day. That means a few hours after you spray it you can go and sand off the drips runs and mistakes that I would get in painting. With care in sanding there is a really good chance no respray at all will be needed. And if some is called for you can spot it in.
Plus an ordinary dust mask protects you. You aren't spraying nasty poisons around that require a fresh air breather tube and a whole suit etc.
Now you'll need to order your paint on line. Yes you can get them even in California. Where you aren't supposed to because every hardware and parts store has spray cans of lacquer. But don't use those. Too expensive. Too hard to do a whole car. Forget metallics and pearls. You won't have the skills or techniques to do a good job.
* There are some "tricks" and techniques that will improve your finish and give you unbelievable depth. I'll be glad to share them if you're interested.
I have a 2011 Mustang with the typical aluminum hood paint peeling issue. I want to just wrap the hood satin black.
Do I need to smooth and paint the exposed aluminum or just smooth it out and wrap over the exposed aluminum spots?
I'd rather a swift kick in the nuts than mess with vinyl wrap again. I'm generally good at all things mechanical and technical and my 2 year old grandson would have done better.
That said, Michael's and Hobby Lobby have it in 12x48 rolls for reg 7.99 and on sale now for 3.99.
I know that's not what you need for a large area but it's a cheap way to find out how it would look over the rough spots and/or figure out like I did if you need to "go a different route"
This might help, too:
You'll need to log in to post.
