Is this caliper damage just superficial?

I'm not concerned about the powdercoat chipping. These will probably turn brown after 2-3 track days anyways. I might cover it with a caliper temperature sticker or caliper temp paint. What I'm more concerned about is this "lip" or "gouge". It looks to be a casting error, as it is raised up from the rest of the surface of the caliper instead of looking like a gouge from shipping errors. The rest of the surface is smooth and it does not feel like this is material that's bunched up from a gouge. I contacted Wilwood (OEM of the caliper) and awaiting response. I contacted RR-Racing (distributor and powdercoater) about what's up and they only commented "it did not ship like that" (referring to the powdercoat chip). 

I wouldn't worry about it, it's not a big-money race caliper FEA'd to the ragged edge of structural integrity.

That's what I figured. Thanks.

On a side note RR-Racing did offer to recoat it as long as I paid for shipping but I don't want to since I worry it'd get damaged beyond cosmetically on the way back to them. They're good guys but a small operation. Takes forever to get back to me. 

Did they... powdercoat the bleeder? Or one of them?

In reply to tuna55 :

Wilwood bleeders have an adaper with the bleeder. It's a bit annoying because the adapter can break loose, then you need to use two wrenches to open the bleeder. "Locking" the adapter in place with powdercoat isn't a terrible thing, but it'll break free eventually and be annoying.

So I wouldn't be too worried about that.

About the ding in the caliper - as long as the piston moves freely, you're probably okay. My only concern would be a lack of wall thickness on the backside of the piston. I'd get that on the car, fire up the engine (so you have a functional brake booster) and then get your strongest friend to try to push the brake pedal through the firewall.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Sounds good, that's what I'm concerned about, the lack of wall thickness. But it truly does look and feel like a casting/forging error. I'm planning on getting these installed by a local shop because I also need the diff/trans serviced (standard flush) and R&R some longer studs and I barely have time to spend with my girlfriend or dog right now due to work travel, so I'll make sure to mention it to them.

In reply to tuna55 :

Yes... LOL  but the other one is also like this. I suspect they did this to help me identify which bleeder is "top" (though I'm not an idiot). 

There is a lot of meat back there.  I have some Wilwoods with significant milling for hub clearance, all is fine.

Which end is top depends on which side it is going on  

I would not worry a bit about that. I run Superlites as well (what yours really are), and after scrutinizing during rebuilds, I can verify they have plenty of wall thickness. File it out, touch-up with Ford blue engine paint, coat with brake dust.

That ding was not there when they were powdercoated, it's not a manufacturing defect. Looks like there was a collision with something substantial...like another caliper bracket?

In reply to Nockenwelle :

Yessir, they're the Forged Superlite 4, sounds good. Like I said not worried about the chip since it's just gonna turn brown after 2-3 track days. I'll find some brake temp paint that turns blue at whatever temp these calipers end up getting to ;) 

I'm not really sure what the collision was from, the boxes were very well packaged. So I'm unsure where it came from. Again, not too concerned.