I've been using the Energy Suspension HyperLube, it's a nasty sticky silicone lube intended for exactly this purpose. Seems to work better than normal greases in terms of not getting squeezed out as quickly, but it makes a huge mess and still doesn't last as long as I want it to.
949 sells it small tubs: http://949racing.com/energysuspensionhyperlube.aspx
Amazon sells it in large ones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MW5SJ4
I've had Energy bushings in all the control arms, rack bushings, and sway bars on my Escort for close to two years, and all is well regarding proper movement/no binding. On the rear trailing arms I only used it in hub position and new rubber in the forward position. I do re-lube everything each spring, but everything has stayed really smooth and free-moving. For DDing, no you will not notice an "improvement" in handling. You WILL notice that you can now feel every little contour and texture of the road surface (and everything that implies), especially if you have stiffer than stock springs and dampers. Where the real advantage, at least for me, comes in is near limit cornering and braking. The reduction in control arm deflection (at least with strut suspensions) means I can better feel what the tires are doing, and no camber loss from the bushings compressing inward; and struts need all the help they can get in the camber department. Can't speak to A-arm suspensions regarding bushing behavior with urethane. If my Miata were tracked regularly, I would likely go with rod ends anyway.
OldGray320i wrote: I'm not hung up on material, just want the harder durometer for that nice feel. Nick D, how was the install with the ES? Like Keith, I've had an issue with the sizing from them, but not terrible. If the bushing set Keith mentions is only a $100 and change more, that's probably worth the hassle of squeaking and such even presuming no issues with poly bind. I'm still trying to get my head around them binding so much it stops suspension movement, that's wild.
Sorry for the long delay in response time. Uhhhh, my particular experience was kind of a pain but that was because my car had been kinda messed up at some point and so I was constantly finding broken/bent parts I had to replace. Getting them out of the control arms required lots of fire in our case (The whole garage stunk of burnt rubber for weeks) and then going in and cleaning the inside of the arm up with emery cloth. Install was easy, just lube the snot out of it and push it in by hand. Considering how wasted a lot of the bushings were in my car, and the fact that I found and replaced all the bent parts in the car, I say it was worth it.
If i were to use poly i would cut a groove around them and install a zerk to go over where the groove is if that makes sense. Then grease, squirts around the bushing before pushing out. But im with keiths train of thought. You dont realize how much they bind until you have a strut out and still cant move the arm cause its all bound up.
Random aside, nice to know everyone here calls them zerks too, couple days ago i said something about zerks on a friends old truck and the rednecks i was helping looked at me like i was a lunatic "uhh wut did you say?" Zerk..err alamite? They were still dumbfounded until i pointed at one and they said "you mean a grease fitting?" Uh, yeah...
Knurled wrote: Poly bushings suck because they get play in them. Rubber won't.
Huh, so why is this even a thread if rubber bushings never get play in them?
z31maniac wrote:Knurled wrote: Poly bushings suck because they get play in them. Rubber won't.Huh, so why is this even a thread if rubber bushings never get play in them?
Rubber gets worn, cracked and mushy/sloppy, but doesn't tend to develop outright free play until they're really far gone.
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