Put oil in it. Make sure you have oil pressure. Drive it. the days of needing break in oil etc. is long gone.
Put oil in it. Make sure you have oil pressure. Drive it. the days of needing break in oil etc. is long gone.
Tom Suddard wrote: Am I going to miss my chance to break in the rings if I break in the cam? I am using a break in (zinc) additive.
Good choice on the additive. You won't miss ring break-in at all. Rings take a much longer time to break in. The last 454 I built used Moly rings which are a bit harder and it took about 1500 miles before they really got a good seal.
Rings will break in regardless. They just break in a little faster and with less chance of glazing if you do the ups and downs.
I personally don't worry about being gentle with them. Drive it. Thousands of engines get built and put on a dyno for their initial run and they are sold with warranties the next day.
Plus 1 on everything Curtis said except the get-built-and-dyno part. Most dyno engines I've been around (out of the car) get run up for about six hours or so before they start pulling on them. Also, the engine brake on a dyno is not the same as pulling the weight of a loaded Trooper up a hill. You're actually trying to move a load and the drivetrain's soaking up 15 percent of the output.
We used to do a gentle break-in on the rings. We never had as much luck sealing them as we do with a high pressure/low pressure cycle in the first 20 miles.
Jerry From LA wrote: Plus 1 on everything Curtis said except the get-built-and-dyno part. Most dyno engines I've been around (out of the car) get run up for about six hours or so before they start pulling on them. Also, the engine brake on a dyno is not the same as pulling the weight of a loaded Trooper up a hill. You're actually trying to move a load and the drivetrain's soaking up 15 percent of the output.
Huh, most of the race shops I've been in (probably ~40ish or so that have had dynos) the first time the engine is fired is on a dyno. It's idled a bit high (~2000) for long enough to bring it up to temp, make sure everything is looking good/sealed and then cycled.. So from "fresh" to load is generally less than 15 minutes of run time.
As has been said, it's all about the cylinder pressure...
Yes it is. I do it with weight and a hill. Some people do it on a dyno. I've never seen anyone make a pull for max power just after a leak test. They usually spend some time breaking it in before a max power pull.
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