Good Day!
I race a 78 Chevy Malibu in some crappy car road races. This is a G-body if you didn't know.
The rearend is a stock type rearend. I am planning on running a swaybar on the rear that is mounted to the chassis instead of the stock swaybar which attaches simply to the lower control arms.
The questions are:
Can I lower the car by 1.5" without creating a rear steer condition? (meaning the control arms will push on one side of the axle as it travels through its motion creating "rear-steer").
What is the perfered method of lowering the car?
Which is better a Watt's link or panhard bar (I would have to fabricate either).
Does anybody here autocross or roadrace a gbody or A body?
Thanks for the help!
Rob
you can buy bolt in panhard bars and Watt's link kits. the 87 Buick GNX had a torque arm with a panhard bar- you could use that car for inspiration.. but that torque arm is relatively short (about the same length as the lower control arms to prevent binding) and modern bolt on aftermarket 4 link control arms are actually better than the GNX setup.
people lower them with just lowering springs, and there are some of those cars built for some pretty serious cornering power. do a google search for an article from the early 80's in either Car Craft or Hot Rod that showed how to build a G body that was capable of almost 1 G on the skid pad with some simple parts and modifications. someone out there scanned the pages and posted it up.
ncjay
Reader
5/25/11 7:37 p.m.
One of the things to watch out for when lowering the car is the pinion angle. You shouldn't run into any trouble dropping it down 1.5", but it's something to keep an eye on. The chassis is popular with street stock racers. Ford 9" rear ends can be found in all types of conditions and all types of prices for those cars. Street stock racers move the mounts on the housing to help the suspension angles.
I know this is an old-ish post...but I wanted to help if possible.
Watts Link: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Watts-Link,3398.html
Panhard bar: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Panhard-Bar-Rear-Weld-on-Kits,3397.html?parentDisplayId=3398
The panhard would be considerably easier, in my experience, to fab/install, setup, etc.
There are also universal swaybar kits at speedway, but they're not nearly as inexpensive.
(I'm not affiliated with Speedway...I just have their catalog in my bathroom)
Clem
ClemSparks wrote:
(I'm not affiliated with Speedway...I just have their catalog in my bathroom)
Clem
This needs to go in the mag. Insert whatever advertiser you want.
Lowering 1.5" most likely will not have a big difference in rearsteer. As the axle moves on the suspension it travels more than that.
Some depends on the present angle of the arms.
I thought the 78s were A-Specials? Or was that the 77s? 77 I believe was the last of the big bodies. Then the 78s had carry over parts from the big A cars before becoming full G cars in 79, wasn't it?
While I'm not in-the-know about any of that...
I don't think it really matters...the suspension design was similar.
I would be curious to know if this was true though, as it would be a good 'loophole" for me building a dirt track car.
Wally
SuperDork
7/15/11 2:08 a.m.
We played with rear steer a bit. If you remove the right upper control arm, or pull a bushing out if the rules require them both, the rear will turn a bit on acceleration and braking. Unfortunatly it was never really helpful, and somewhat unpredictable in how much steering you would get.
tuna55
SuperDork
7/15/11 7:19 a.m.
turn on the lights in your garage and just look around for it. It might be hiding under a bench, but they are usually pretty big. You should be able to locate it fairly easily.
Someone had to do it.