My 2006 Toyota Tundra door locks are not behaving. I can’t use my key at all in the passenger door, glove box or tailgate, and the driver’s door is getting real fussy. The ignition is still okay.
What’s the best way to fix this stuff? A locksmith... a junkyard... eBay... dealership? Is this a 15, 150 or 1,500 dollar problem?
When mine get fussy some powdered graphite does the trick to free 'em up. Use a paper clip to pry open the key slot and poof a little bit in, then distribute internally by inserting the key several times and lock & unlock a bunch.
Don't use a liquid lubricant, that will attract dirt and gum up the works even worse.
And if someone has already gummed up the works with something like WD-40 or 3-in-1 or whatever, squirt in a little Ronsonol first, blow out with compressed air (lightly - you just want to dry it), and then powdered graphite.
Sounds to me like your key is getting worn, more than the locks. The other locks you mention rarely get used. Do you have another key?
Dr. Hess said:Sounds to me like your key is getting worn, more than the locks. The other locks you mention rarely get used. Do you have another key?
I have two very worn keys and the one I’m using appears to be a hardware store copy. Can Toyota cut a new one using the VIN?
In reply to OHSCrifle :
Yes they can, but a good locksmith can do it by cutting a new code key. You probably have chip keys so that does complicate things a bit.
You can swap the key part and chip part. That is, put your chip part on the new key part or vice versa, although my newest Toyota is 6 years older than yours.
There appears to be no chip on these. Old school.
I will have to google “code key”.
Sorry, a “code key” just means they cut a new key using the intended depths of the key cuts rather than a copy of your existing key. “Code” because they measure the key, come up with a number code for each cut, and cut to that.
In reply to dculberson :
Okay thanks for that
Locksmith here. Graphite is pretty bad for lubricating locks since they come from the factory with grease in them and the graphite just forms a paste. I use a lock specific lubricant called Houdini. It’s available on Amazon and both cleans out the old pasty stuff and lubing the lock going forward.
I do agree about getting new key blades cut to the code (done using a Blitz machine) rather than just copying the current wear. Many times a “hardware store” copy introduces errors that prevent the new key from actually working. The dealership should be able to do it from the VIN but may cost you $50 or so.
In reply to KyAllroad (Jeremy) :
Wow, good to know. I've always heard graphite was the best but I'll have to get me some Houdini.
In reply to KyAllroad (Jeremy) :
How do you find a locksmith with a Blitz machine?
In reply to OHSCrifle :
Most any professional lock shop will have one.
In reply to EastCoastMojo :
And the best thing is that it’s a citrus based lubricant so it smells like oranges. 
Yeah, graphite is pretty much obsolete now but many people still use it. I use Tri-Flow in my locks, it has a liquid that will carry off old grease and dirt then it dries to a lubricating dry film. Telling is that the locksmith I trust most in town with my key copies carries Tri-Flow as their recommended lube.
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