I mean I work at a dealership again I'm sure I can locate a scanner...
mans yes it isn't overtly missing and seems to run well.
I mean I work at a dealership again I'm sure I can locate a scanner...
mans yes it isn't overtly missing and seems to run well.
I can't help with your question, but why is there black so far up the threads? Does 1/2" of the plug extend into the chamber?
Codes finally cleared. Got to work, no new codes. Now... to figure out the sound of the ticking at idle....
#2 at 50 miles:
#2 piston up at the top. Cant see much but no holes and burn marks.
and #3 piston which was one of the cylinders missing large portions of porcelain
bobzilla said:Codes finally cleared. Got to work, no new codes. Now... to figure out the sound of the ticking at idle....
Possibly a stupid question, but is this a new sound or was it always there?
In reply to Slippery :
Started to hear it Saturday night after I did a whole single 20 minute session on Blackhawk. Oil was low, but not dangerously. Added a quart of 5-40 (by this point it looked to be 3/4 qt low). It is now a little over full, but after its been driven at speed for a few miles goes away and only comes back after idling hot for a few minutes. Then goes away with more rpms. I'm changing the oil and switching from the 5-20 it has had to 5-30 and see if that has an effect on it.
Using the long screwdriver it's almost impossible to locate the sound. It sounds like a lifter tick.
So I googled 2013 Kia P0302. Yeah, don't do that. I no longer have faith in the ability for the human race to survive.
If it should go back to lean again I will go with three, likely unpopular, thoughts that it could be.
1: Is the GDI pump failing? Could make bad noises, could cause lean.
2: Is there a vacuum leak in #2? Possibly a cracked intake or seal?
3: Is there any chance there is a cracked/bad intake valve spring? Makes clicks, could manifest in reduced efficiency specifically including leaving the valve open long enough to lean out that cylinder.
As far as the noise at startup, for gits and shiggles run diesel spec 5w30. I think that you may have found the limits of high efficiency oil in your track time experience.
p0302 is gone. Coil fixed that issue and after the drive in to work re-checked for codes and there were none stored, even the ones I couldn't get to clear last night.
Aas for the noise, the best location I found was low on the cam cover on the intake side of #1 cylinder. Since it goes away with higher rpms it feels oil pressure related to me. I haven't checked to see of these are hydraulic lash adjusters or mechanical requiring an adjustment yet.
(check my edit)
I agree with the oil limits. I ran 10w30 in the tib and even it would get lifter tick at the end of a 30 minute session.I might try some of the euro spec 0-40.
If you still see similar symptoms with known "real" plugs, I would go for one heat range colder if available. The gdi VW seem to like those when run hard in track type use.
bobzilla said:Ok. Changed the coil in the parking lot at work. Cleared the codes. P0302 from Sunday is still logged. Won't clear it.
drove home, doing all the things that made it unhappy before. Low revs, high load abs matting the gas. Mat the throttle through 3 gears. Steady state driving in 6th and roll on the throttle. All normal. No new cel. No new codes. Just the old one.
is there some odd thing where it holds codes that were severe in nature longer?
scoped 2 and 3 (3 had large pieces of porcelain missing) and both looked good. Cant get enough deflection to look at the cylinder walls but the pistons have what look like normal amounts of carbon on them. They were a little cleaner than the wife's auto, but she has about 6k more miles on since we seafoamed it.
Permanent codes can only be cleared by something like 40 consecutive drive cycles where that specific monitor passed. A lot of newer vehicles store codes in permanent memory.
The only way to "manually" clear them is a reflash, and I'm not even sure about that.
Oddly enough, The Nanobeaver might be a good name for this little pocket racer.
John Welsh said:Oddly enough, The Nanobeaver might be a good name for this little pocket racer.
Agreed. I was going to suggest Team Nanobeaver for his racing exploits, but realized it might kinda make him sound like a pedophile.
I could make him teeny tiny beaver stickers to put on all the things.
In reply to spacecadet (Forum Supporter) :
/thread
I love you guys so much.
spacecadet (Forum Supporter) said:
I thought about buying that, but I'm waiting for "Nanobeavers - Return of The Magic Smoke" to come out, so I can get the Box Set, along with "Nanobeavers - Tail Strike!"
Ok back on topic a little here....
no codes for 3 consecutive runs. The tick I have now heard is identical to the lifter tick the tib would have after multiple runs or laps on track on hot days but it only does it cold.
WELL HELL... lost my post from last night.
TL:DR Nano-beavers are released from the knock sensor.
More filling version: Did my oil change to a thicker synthetic. tick/knock sound still there at idle and up to about 1500rpms. Mulled it over, did some research and came across a video of the exact noise. Turns out 2012 there was a bulletin for the knock sensor replacement and ecu relearn. The knock sensor was not detecting detonation until it was really bad and causing problems. Thinking to myself "I have two of these, I'll just rob the one off the car that works". But, being smarter than that I started by pulling the bad one. Yeah, that wasn't happening. Took the dog for a hike and on the way back got to thinking on this. If the sensor is unplugged, the ECU will got to limp mode and pull all the timing. For a minute of run time should be safe enough and I can get the answer if this is timing related or not. Got home, started it up, CEL comes on and the car settles into low idle. No knock.
So, new sensor is on it's way to the shop here and I'll install it tonight. The old sensor actually has corrosion in the grooves which is leading me to suspect that this is once again related to sitting for 18 months.
So beware people, keep your knock sensor happy or the it will release the nano-beavers.
edit: video that led me here: https://youtu.be/rF0erPa2yNs
Spark knock at idle? 
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
gdi engine on the ragged edge for efficiency baby. I'm sure there is some knock throughout but you hear it at idle.
*SIGH* new sensor in last night. first few minutes was not much change. Longer it ran, quieter it got. Went and filled the car with 93. Ran it hard all the way home and by the time I was home all noise was gone. This morning, it was light at start up but by the time I got to work it was not there. At lunch, startup it's there, by the time I get back all but gone. Every new startup is the same.
Possible an ecu learning issue? SOmething else? running out of ideas.
In reply to bobzilla :
There's probably some long term adaptives that have to set.
Subarus were a-holes about spark adaptation on the 2.2s. That was where they would pull back so much timing adaptation in the below-2200rpm zone that they would not get out of their own way (like, walking speed near WOT) until they woke up like someone flipped a switch.
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