In reply to Mazdax605 :
Mask and paint. Here is the kicker...Use Scotch Magic Tape, the frosty one for masking. Conventional masking tape does not have a sharp enough line for model work. It always looks fuzzy.The Scotch is a little harder to get burnished down on corners, but well worth the extra effort.
I have never built a model car before, but if my ebay order i just made gets in quickly enough then I'm in.
If not, then i might just submit a late entry for partial credit.
I have a couple unfinished 1/43 kits somewhere in my basement. Looks like I have a reason to go hunting for 1them when I get home
In reply to Daeldalus :
We may do another one if there's enough demand, but try anyway!
TurnerX19 said:In reply to Mazdax605 :
Mask and paint. Here is the kicker...Use Scotch Magic Tape, the frosty one for masking. Conventional masking tape does not have a sharp enough line for model work. It always looks fuzzy.The Scotch is a little harder to get burnished down on corners, but well worth the extra effort.
Should the black around the windows be the last color I spray? I don't have white, my localish hobby shop is closed, but maybe I can get it online even though I'm reluctant to order stuff that a delivery person has to schlep around for a dumb hobby. So in order of paints, White if I get it, Blue, then black? I don't have special model pain in black, but I have the blue. How important is primer as I don't have that either?
In reply to Mazdax605 :
Primer in important if you use any lacquer based paints. Read the label carefully if using hardware store rattle cans. If it contains ketones (MEK) acetone or toluene you need a barrier to prevent crazing on the plastic. One step Rustoleum is an example of a rattle can that contains them. General rule of thumb to paint lightest color first and gradually go to darks. The black stripe on yours makes masking the blue/white interface very easy. I would seriously consider a brush for the stripe. For primer I use automotive light gray or Variprime yellow with my air brush. A quart does a whole lot of models! I have not tried it but strongly suspect that Rustoleum Automotive rattle can light gray will work.
In reply to Mazdax605 :
Ask around, a neighbor probably has a rattle can of gloss white. Any old white will do. You should primer first. FYI - Wal-Mart sells $1 cans of grey primer and gloss white and black that work well enough. You can brush paint the black around the windows.
Don't do this. 
In reply to noddaz :
Westley's Bleche-White will strip that off!
+1 to all of the above advice. As for masking, I use Tamiya tape and a plastic tape called "Washi tape." I get both from Amazon. Washi tape is flexible, and you can cut it into thinner strips so it will bend around compound curves better. Start with your white paint over a primer, then go to the darker colors. Before I paint the next color, I brush Future floor polish, or whatever they're calling it now, along the tape to seal it. It will help keep the new paint color from bleeding under the tape.
In reply to noddaz :
Real Avantis got paint blisters on the hood, but usually not that bad. I am doing 4 of those 1/32 scale Avantis for slot car bodies in (close to) 4 original colors.
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Benswen :
Nice minis in the background!
Thanks. Yep, I do all the nerdy stuff - sci-fi and fantasy miniatures, hot wheels cars, scale models... Actually I think I prefer painting minis to building model cars - I always tend to bite off more than I can chew with a model car project, but with the minis I just paint.
Big order in to Tower hobbies. Arrival targeted to Friday. Needs me some paint.
The interior is usually where I start to take shortcuts, because it's hard to see in there anyway. I can't say I've ever tried to replicate a factory two-tone dashboard before.
E36 M3, this goes around to the door panels too, huh? Guess I gotta do those as well.
In reply to slowbird :
I missed the break point between body color and vinyl color on the Tiger's door and kick panels
Next time when I am not in a hurry I'll get it right. I have 2 more kits.
Undercoat going on!
Always the most nerve wracking part for me. Masking a color and then painting the top coat. Yes, I painted a molded in red model bright green. I'm a rebel.
Second coat of top color.
In reply to Javelin (Forum Supporter) :
I think that is very close to a factory color. My Tiger is not. Too bad for the rivet counters!
In reply to TurnerX19 :
That was on purpose!
I've been painting, biking, painting, biking... all day for a day and a half. This model making thing is difficult.
ok guys, late to the party and need approbation.
year's ago I trade the floor pan of this kit to a friend who damage his ( see pictures). When I saw this tread late last night I immediately wanted to get in and started making plan with what I have. But I forgot kit wasn't totally new...
my plan was, starting with this kit, to make some kind of a fun track day car. Add a second seat (maybe), different wheels if I can make them fit and have fun with a not so serious project as I'm use to do....
but, kit isn't new. It's damage. But I have a donor to get a usable floor pan. If ok with you guys, I'll use that as my build. I'll even provide pictures of the floor pan of the donor striped as much as I could so it's as new as possible...
what do you think of my plan?
In reply to Yelo :
I am OK with it from this corner.
noddaz said:
Don't do this.
You could always do it as abarn find, or add some black - fire damage.
I just couldn't wait for the answer, I decided to strip the floor pan anyway and trew it in the purple power bath to strip what ever paint was left on it.... I'll start building tomorrow morning. Just let me know if it fits the spirit of the contest or not, if not, I'll just build it for myself and maybe take a little bit longer....
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