Sioux Valve Grinder Chuck Stuck?!

I'm trying to get an old Sioux back into service.  It might be a 680.

The chuck was ferociously stuck and needed heat and beast mode to remove.

I can get the chuck to thread on about a turn, but then it quickly becomes impossible to turn by hand.

I've flushed the threads with Acetone, liberal application of Moovit penetrant, lots of cussing, even stuffed some green scrubbie inside the threaded area of the spindle to clean it more. I'm not winning.

Any suggestions? Anyone done this before??

I have always used a KwikWay, and never had a stuck chuck but, I would bet there is abrasive swarf in there. Good luck, I think there is a high  probability of terminal damage to the spindle while you remove it

I got the chuck parts off, and cleaned the snot out of it, acetone, compressed air, green scrubbie, toothbrush, screaming, voodoo, it's all very clean.

The internal threads are a bugger to get at, but it looks like they are attached from the backside, and can separate from the spindle itself..  I may have to try to get it apart to determine if it's the threads or the spindle  shank (?) that is the problem. 

Not looking forward to wrecking anything....

But if I get it apart without wrecking anything, might be a good time to replace the bearings, eh??

These machines live a hard life even if well cared for. The abrasive swarf that gets circulated in the cooling oil gets everywhere.

Can you get the entire chuck off its tailstock?  Looks like a Morse taper, if you can get it off the machine it may e easier to wrestle.

The spindle on mine is a lot different.  That one might be an older one.

I got the spindle out with no issues. There was something invisible on the spindle's chuck sleeve thingie, so I spun the spindle up in my lathe and polished it with a green scrubbie.  Now the chuck spins on like butter.

Cleaned and lubed all the bearings and bushes, but in order to test out any (in)accuracy I need to fabricate the Aligner that holds the tip of the valve stem. 

Weird 0.785" diameter. Maybe use .750" with some o-ring grooves machined in??

I've got the chuck to about 0.0017" out of round.  Factory was within 0.001". I'm sure there is some massaging there that can be done.

Fabricated all of the missing handles.

Fabricated the Aligner tool thingie, and made it as  long as I think I'd need it to be.  Put a couple rubber o-rings at the end for gripping to help position it, but it was turned to as perfect a slip fit as I could get..

Took the grinder wheel off so I could fabricate an indicator which for whatever reason is missing.  One turn is 0.050" advancement of the stone.

Pounded out the dented capacitor cover trying to practice good metal bumping techniques (I hate bodywork).  This turned out really well.

Installed an LED "halogen" style bulb just because I had one.

Grind a dead valve just to see how well it worked.  I'm pleased.

Still need to source a pump and get sprayers for the grinding oil (Kerosene?).

Sweet!

I grew up grinding valves. We used a 50/50 mix of kerosene and 30 weight motor oil.

I've been using ATF in the newer Sioux at work, but I've been researching this, and ATF seems to be poo-poo'd by most machinists.  I betcha diesel would work fine, and I happen to have a pail of it I've been using to soak pistons....

Made the micrometer collar for the hand wheel so I can know how much I cut off the valve.

I ordered a couple sets of rip-off Loc-Line for the coolant/cutting-fluid off ebay (https://www.ebay.ca/itm/372571154635).  The real Loc-Line stuff I found online was four times that price, plus $64 shipping into Canada.  I now only have to wait four months for these to arrive.

Also ordered a small aquarium pump off Walmart's website (https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Zimtown-8W-220V-110V-600L-H-160GPH-Submersible-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Water-Feature-Pump/PRD2OCY76946AMT) - we'll see how long it can pump a thin oil through it.

Coolant type will depend on what type of valve your grinding.  Coolant here does make a world of difference with the metal and the grinding wheel composition.  Yes just about any coolant will work but the proper one will give best finish.  Contact most coolant company and ask for sample packs.  Last time i set up mine i got shipped to me 2 gallons of on type that was enough to mix up 60 gallons...  If worked great on SS valve but crappy on plain steel.