I'm sure they've been doing this in the automotive industry somewhere.
What kind of glue are they using for a strong, permanent, waterproof bond between fiberglass and metal that can take some shear and compression forces. Think of a boating application.
I've heard that 3M 5200 has worked for some people, but I also know we have some adhesive specialists here, so I'm throwing it out to you guys.
FSAE team I was on used 5200 on damn near everything. Its great stuff, but I can't comment on how it would work in a wet environment.
3M Panel bonding adhesive.
I can almost guarantee its shear strength is higher than the FRP it would be bonded to
I would use E-6000.
http://eclecticproducts.com/products/e6000/e6000-industrial-adhesive.html
Thanks for the replies so far!
I've owned several large sailboats and for any application I knew I never wanted to take apart again I used 3M 5200. The stuff when dry forms a permanent bond. I have used it to bond aluminum rub rail to fiberglass hull with a few bolts and it formed a watertight bond that stayed in place for the ten years I owned the boat. For something you might want to take apart 3M 4200 works very well. I have used it to bed fittings for a semi permanent watertight applications.
Would these adhesives be useful for glueing some brackets to a camper shell for an awning? It'll probably be subject to lots of vibration from dirt roads and such.
thatsnowinnebago (Forum Supporter) said:Would these adhesives be useful for glueing some brackets to a camper shell for an awning? It'll probably be subject to lots of vibration from dirt roads and such.
I think the 3M 5200 would work.
I just started a new job dealing with automotive paint and body shop supplies so I can do some researcg in the morning.
Mr_Asa said:FSAE team I was on used 5200 on damn near everything. Its great stuff, but I can't comment on how it would work in a wet environment.
5200 is also a marine sealant. If I can use it on my boat, I am sure it would work on a car
To further clarify:
Adding part of a jet-ski hull to an aluminum boat, making it structural and waterproof.
Yes, fiberglass to fiberglass is easier, and if I could weld aluminum at all, re-doing the boat with all aluminum construction would be better.
But this might be the way I wind up going.
Well 3M 5200 is strong and permanent enough a lot of boat manufacturers use it for the deck to hull bond. Of course that is fiberglass to fiberglass. However if the aluminum and fiberglass surfaces are prepared well and clean a bond shouldn't be a problem.
Mr_Asa said:FSAE team I was on used 5200 on damn near everything. Its great stuff, but I can't comment on how it would work in a wet environment.
It's boat glue. Exactly what I would use.
I'll also say 3M 5200 and screws. It will stay flexible. waterproof and it will stay stuck. It's some very tenacious stuff.
3M 5200. Use only after a period discernment and prayer. What you do with this, cannot be undone.
Don't get it near your hootus. Don't get it near your butt cheeks, or you'll never wipe right again.
In reply to mtn (Forum Supporter) :
Building a boat, 3M 5200
Bedding deck fittings or sealing things that may need to come apart in the future. 3M 4200.
My other rule of thumb. Above the waterline, 4200. Below the waterline, 5200.
In reply to mtn (Forum Supporter) :
The video convinced me that 5200 is what I want! (I'll just be careful not to get it on my hootus.)
Thanks
Toyman01 (Moderately Supportive Dude) said:In reply to mtn (Forum Supporter) :
Building a boat, 3M 5200
Bedding deck fittings or sealing things that may need to come apart in the future. 3M 4200.
My other rule of thumb. Above the waterline, 4200. Below the waterline, 5200.
More info on this 4200? How would you get it off if you decide you don't want it?
I need to install some rod storage, but don't want it to be permanent if I decide to take it out. I really want to just screw it in, but Dad isn't happy about the idea of screws in the deck of his Grady.
Acetone will clean it up while it's still soft. Once set, nothing touches it.
In reply to mtn (Forum Supporter) :
It's pretty much the same thing as 5200, it's just medium strength and fast cure. You can get it back apart once it's stuck. I use it on deck hatches that may need to be replaced at some point in the future or anything else that may need to be removed.
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