Rocambolesque
Rocambolesque Reader
6/5/22 6:21 p.m.

I have those wheels on my project car. They had a machined face with painted inserts and painted barrels. I paid 200$ for them. The clearcoat on the machined faces was starting to flake off and the paint had seen better days. 

I wanted to refinish them. At first, I asked around a couple of shops if they could chemically strip the old finish off so I could polish the machined face and repaint the rest. I already polished some other wheels, it requires patience but it's not so bad, especially if the face is relatively flat like those wheels. No one wanted my money unless I would pay 1000$+ for a turnkey refinish job. So I thought about mechanically stripping the clearcoat. I found a sandblast guy willing to do all 4 wheels for 160$. I drop the wheels at his shop. I tell him to only do the faces. I take time to explain to him that I want to polish them so please go easy on the sand and use something fine. He tells me not to worry and that they will be smooth when I get them back. Two months later he returns the wheels. I swear he must have used gravel as the blasting media or something. The wheels were super rough and pitted. Oh and they were fully blasted too, not only the face as I asked for.

At that point, there was no turning back. The guy couldn't unblast them of course. I got a quote from a powdercoating shop. 700$ for all 4 wheels. Forget that. So I thought that with a lot of time, I could probably sand back the machined faces smooth and get the rest smooth enough to fill with a high build primer and paint and achieve a decent enough finish. Well, the high build primer part is fine. It only needs a bit of work with a 120 grit pad and a DA sander and I can get it smooth enough for paint. The machined face is insane amount of work. I need to go over it with the DA with a 60 grit, then 120, then 220, then hit it with a scotch brite and a bit of polish to expose the remaining pits. Start the process like 5 times and eventually I'll get something half decent, but of course it'll never be perfectly smooth.

After the first stages of sanding, it will be like that:

The outer lip is the worse, as the guy probably doubled down on the blasting there:

After way too many hours, I got one wheel to that point:

I'm confident that if I hit it with 220 up to 2000 it will polish alright, but I'll still see some pits somewhere.

Now what got me worried is that I found big gouges like that:

Not sure if it was there before or not. They almost look like punch marks. Maybe to get a weight off...

Also, as you see here on this "good" outer lip, the machined face is actually "raised" maybe 1 mm:

On 2 of the wheels, the guy blasted that 1 mm down flush:

Now I'm kinda scared that either the wheels won't balance, or the tires won't seal because of all those pits or even that all those micro pits will become stress risers waiting the right moment to initiate a crack. I don't want to go through all of this and find out that the wheels are unusable afterwards. I don't really mind finding other wheels, as they only cost 360$. However, I haven't seen this wheel model before and I think the look suits the car well. What would you do? Keep sanding and run them, or replace?

If I was to do it all again, I would just hit the faces with a 120 grit pad on the DA and remove the clear that way. No chance in hell I'm sandblasting anything other than steel again.

 

 

AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter)
AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) UltraDork
6/5/22 6:28 p.m.

That is how cast aluminum looks.  It's a cast wheel.  I'd get them powder coated in your favorite color and rock on.  Or you can use high build primer and paint them with the wheel paint of your persuasion.  Mercedes clearly had a very high build prime and finish on them originally.  Casting will always show pores. 

 

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy MegaDork
6/5/22 6:32 p.m.

Polish the flat surface to the limit of your patience, mask that off, paint the curved sides of the spokes and bell flat black, or body color, or whatever appeals.  Clearcoat and rock it.

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy MegaDork
6/5/22 6:35 p.m.

Also, based on the top photo, you were never going to make those back into new wheels, no matter how much dough you throw at them.

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 UltraDork
6/5/22 6:45 p.m.

The "punch marks" on the inner rim are from the clamping mechanism of a tire mounting machine. Completely OK/normal. Glass bead and 75psi max for aluminum. I have seen many damaged parts like this over the years.

Rocambolesque
Rocambolesque Reader
6/5/22 8:57 p.m.
AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) said:

That is how cast aluminum looks.  It's a cast wheel.  I'd get them powder coated in your favorite color and rock on.  Or you can use high build primer and paint them with the wheel paint of your persuasion.  Mercedes clearly had a very high build prime and finish on them originally.  Casting will always show pores. 

 

No it's clearly not cast finish! It's the same finish on the faces that were "as cast" as on the faces that were machined. I worked with cast aluminum parts before, this is much rougher and coarse, more like sandpaper.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
6/5/22 9:57 p.m.
TurnerX19 said:

The "punch marks" on the inner rim are from the clamping mechanism of a tire mounting machine. Completely OK/normal. Glass bead and 75psi max for aluminum. I have seen many damaged parts like this over the years.

And this is why I always clamp wheels from the outside.  Plus they won't slip off the machine and slam into your junk.

porschenut
porschenut HalfDork
6/6/22 10:14 a.m.

I had good luck painting wheels using a junk spindle.  The bearings and hub were still attached, I clamped the rig in  a vice and spun the wheel while painting.  Got a nice even finish for cheap.

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter)
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
6/6/22 10:36 a.m.

I say this with love, but you are WAY over-worrying.  The GTA wheels on my LeMans have about 20 of those gouges on the back and I don't fret a minute.  It's from the tire mounting machine and it's totally normal.  As far as sand blasting, it's an aggressive choice but cast aluminum is soft.  I wouldn't worry about stress fractures.

Getting from a sandblasted finish to something sandable and polishable is pretty easy with a wire wheel on a grinder or drill (grinder is way better).  Using different grades of steel wire wheel and then switching to brass can get you darn close.  It will get you to about like the finish on a stainless steel kitchen sink.  Like a machined finish.  From there it's a lot easier to sand and polish.

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