Also I will say at least Stalker puts all the pricing clearly on their site, no having to contact them for pricing. 40k for a turn key stock 3800 powered car, 50k for a turn key stock crate ls3 car.
Also I will say at least Stalker puts all the pricing clearly on their site, no having to contact them for pricing. 40k for a turn key stock 3800 powered car, 50k for a turn key stock crate ls3 car.
I have a solid axle Birkin S3 (narrow chassis) with a Dunnell built Zetec in it. Mine has had some teething issues, it only had about 100 hours on it. Header cracked at the flanges, fan rubbed the radiator through in a spot, fender mounts like to break. Dunnell sells the crate motor as package with a locked ECU so the tune could be optimized. The windblast with the flat screen is brutal on the street. I'm getting some side deflectors to help. It's really buffeting on your ear and side of face that's the painful part. Even with glasses on , it gets behind the lens unless you're wearing something full seal because the swirl is really coming from behind you. It had a brooklands screen on it when I got it, but didn't like the look. I haven't had it on track this year because of the Cov. With some, ahem, brisk street driving, the solid axle is a bit tricky on bumpy off camber mountain roads. I'm going to replace the stock rubber bushed rear trailing arms with sphericals to help keep the axle on the ground through the rougher stuff. Mine will fuel starve at half tank on left handers, evidently common on these because of tank shape. Looking forward to getting it dialed in for spring.
I have a Birkin, the fit on the car is pretty nice. I have seen some of the other locost setup and it is definitely up to you as to how well the car will be. You can get one done rather quick and cheap, but it will show I think. If you take time, I think you can do a cheap build that looks good.
I have a build/rebuild thread on mine. Its slowly getting back together now. Others have given a lot more info on all the options out there though.
fatallightning said:The windblast with the flat screen is brutal on the street. I'm getting some side deflectors to help. It's really buffeting on your ear and side of face that's the painful part. Even with glasses on , it gets behind the lens unless you're wearing something full seal because the swirl is really coming from behind you...
Yes, that's a real issue with any flat windshield open top car, which is almost always ignored when extolling their virtues. The air coming up over the top of the glass creates a low pressure in the passenger compartment. Air coming around the side of the windscreen is sucked inward, hitting the occupants in the side of the head. And yeah, it becomes really annoying. After adding my "roof/air intake", it cut down on the buffeting by about half by preventing the air coming in over the top.
Those little wings on the side of the windscreen can help.
About Locosts and how much they can vary, I'm gonna share this.
https://www.caranddriver.com/features/a15150678/the-homemades-feature/
Heck, here's something from our gracious hosts.
http://www.cheapsportscar.net/images/oct_64_75_atom.pdf
kb58 said:fatallightning said:The windblast with the flat screen is brutal on the street. I'm getting some side deflectors to help. It's really buffeting on your ear and side of face that's the painful part. Even with glasses on , it gets behind the lens unless you're wearing something full seal because the swirl is really coming from behind you...
Yes, that's a real issue with any flat windshield open top car, which is almost always ignored when extolling their virtues. The air coming up over the top of the glass creates a low pressure in the passenger compartment. Air coming around the side of the windscreen is sucked inward, hitting the occupants in the side of the head. And yeah, it becomes really annoying. After adding my "roof/air intake", it cut down on the buffeting by about half by preventing the air coming in over the top.
picture? I'm thinking a laminar lip might help. Someone did a rough CFD and the buffeting is exacerbated by the rear fenders becoming a high pressure air wall. It stacks there, and then flows into the low pressure cabin area.
Keith Tanner said:My car was 1200 lbs with a 148 rwhp high compression 1.6. Perfect match to the chassis - fast and super fun.
Oddly, I don't feel the Exocet suffers with a turbo. I think it's because they're just that much less raw.
Wow! What was the formula for that 1.6 and can you build me one?
Jah29 said:Keith Tanner said:My car was 1200 lbs with a 148 rwhp high compression 1.6. Perfect match to the chassis - fast and super fun.
Oddly, I don't feel the Exocet suffers with a turbo. I think it's because they're just that much less raw.
Wow! What was the formula for that 1.6 and can you build me one?
11:1 pistons, Web Camshaft 505 cams, valve spring upgrade, a header based on a Boig E-prod unit, throttle bodies and a Link ECU. Tune until satisfied. It would probably do even better with a modern ECU, and when I look at the dyno runs I never bothered testing to the 8000 rpm redline - it was still climbing at 7000.
It's the most operatic engine I've ever driven, it goes through at least three different voices. Enormously fun and perfectly suited to the car. Also, I think that dyno may have been underreporting based on our turbo-centric test regimen and the fact that the car can hang with a Caterham Superlight with a 180 rwhp engine on the straights.
Mine is a Locost, with the cowl smudged rearward about 3-1/2". It's been on the road since 2006.
I don't think I would buy anyone's Locost unless I was prepared to take it fairly thoroughly apart and inspect/check everything - but that really depends on how fussy you are. Some are really well done, some are.... interpretive.
Mentioned above - the wind is brutal. I measured 119dB of wind noise at 90km/h (55mph). A Bikini top makes a significant difference. I've never put wind wings on, but I have some....
Rain can be epic - rain all over both the front and back of the windshield, rain on both the front and back of your glasses. You arrive looking like you fell in a pool. It's epic.
Mine is a solid axle, with relatively soft 140lb springs in the back. The ride is very firm, but not punishing. The stick axle can be a little interesting on a corner with bumps during a "spirited" adventure, but largely on the street at legal speeds, you're not going to get into trouble with a solid axle. IRS would be more comfortable, but you don't own these for comfort.
I'm running a Toyota 4AGE with ITBs on Megasquirt. Maybe 120hp? Performance is very satisfactory, but I would like more power.
This is my #1 bucket list car, and I am SO glad I built one. It's my "keeper."
I like at least pretending to have side impact protection. Any good homebuild plans for fuller-body cars?
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:I don't think I would buy anyone's Locost unless I was prepared to take it fairly thoroughly apart and inspect/check everything - but that really depends on how fussy you are. Some are really well done, some are.... interpretive.
I did buy someone's Locost and, yeah, I don't think I'd recommend it in general. :)
If I build another, I figure on trying a more swept windshield. I've heard that makes a big difference
v
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