Seriously guys, it's a small coyote at 50-80 yards? A .410 with a slug won't do it IMO. Suggesting .223, .243, .308, 17HMR, 7.62 is just nuts! 12ga with a slug or buck is safe considering the range and that there is a house some distance away. A crossbow would even do the trick if you're good. You certainly don't need an deer rifle to dispatch a coyote at that range.
In reply to Justjim75 :
Since I'm not all that versed in what's out there, just listing everything I know. 
My list did start with .223 though. Actually, it started with a shotgun slug.
Personally, if my first shot out of my .22 didn't do it, the next 15 would.
In reply to lotusseven7 (Forum Supporter) :
Nuts? Is the neighboring house your concern?
.22 WMR (Magnum) is the more common coyote/varmint round around here. My father-in-law doesn't go anywhere on his farm without his .22 WMR. I'd wager more 'yotes have been taken with a .223 than probably any other round out there.
If you can't safely take the shot though, don't. That's why traps exist.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:I keep a model 94 32 Win Spl around for quick grabs on things like Coyotes. I find I'm pretty deadly accurate with the sights on that thing. I prefer a bigger, heavier ball when I definitely want to make sure it's dead. It tends to ruin a fair amount of meat on something I want to harvest and put in the freezer if you're not picky about where you hit.
Edit: nevermind. I bought mine for $180, but it looks like they're stoopid expensive.
Love my old 94.
In reply to bigdaddylee82 :
My parents house isn't a concern. Both our houses sit up, 20-30ft, so we would both be shooting down. I said that to say both of us could be shooting this thing depending who has a shot. I agree 223 would be perfect, but 1100 is stupid for something that was 600 2? Years ago.
I don't want to do foot traps..I have cats, a neighbor across the street has cats. I'm thinking of setting up a solar powered camera and baiting it. Seems like an easy way to ensure a shot.
lotusseven7 (Forum Supporter) said:Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:I keep a model 94 32 Win Spl around for quick grabs on things like Coyotes. I find I'm pretty deadly accurate with the sights on that thing. I prefer a bigger, heavier ball when I definitely want to make sure it's dead. It tends to ruin a fair amount of meat on something I want to harvest and put in the freezer if you're not picky about where you hit.
Edit: nevermind. I bought mine for $180, but it looks like they're stoopid expensive.
Love my old 94.
I love my newer model 94 in 45 Colt. Easy shooting with little recoil and accurate with the iron sites.
In reply to lnlogauge :
$400 will get you a Savage Axis with an already bore sighted Weaver scope on it.
https://www.kygunco.com/Product/View?ItemNo=137367
Wouldn't a .357 Mag lever gun also be perfect for a coyote problem?
In reply to Brett_Murphy (Ex-Patrón) :
I've been wanting a .357 lever action, then can use 38 spl also.
S&W M&P 15 for $800
https://www.kygunco.com/Product/View?ItemNo=101177
Radical AR15 with free float handguard $610 (I don't know much about Radical)
https://www.primaryarms.com/radical-firearms-ar15-16-556-carbine-15-m-lok-rpr-rail
RRA LAR-15 for $800
https://www.kygunco.com/Product/View?ItemNo=94722
PSA stripped lower receiver with a PSA build kit gets you a $600 AR that's a fun, quick, project, and you can say you built it yourself.
That's about 15 minutes worth of looking around, so there are still plenty of options for sub $1100 ARs out there. Yes everything is more expensive now, those PSA parts would have been about $450, 13 months ago. It sucks, but the market is what it is, and I'm walking the flounder tight rope here I know, but based on the rhetoric coming from the current administration, if you don't already have an AR and you think you want one, hop to it.
Check out Gun Owners of America and Firearms Policy Coalition.
For tha coyote problem get yourself some AR-15 ammo designed for self defense/law enforcement.
Its loaded with frangible projectiles designed to not over penetrate in urban environments. One example is Cor-Bon Urban Response.
Hornady used to make something called TAP but its been discontinued. Everything is hard to find.
A .357 at 80 yards has the accuracy and would work with 125 grain self defense hollow points loaded to over 1300 to 1400 fps. Expansion is the key to not over penetrating. I would seriously stay away from shotgun slugs in an area with neighbors, pets and livestock. The slugs weight so much they would definitely over penetrate a coyote. And I would not trust buckshot at 80 yards, IMO, a coyote could fit in the holes in the pattern and one 00 pellet would need a lucky hit to put it down right away. Meanwhile the pellets fly wherever the barrel was pointed.
No matter what caliber or projectile you shoot you have to do your part and completely understand what is behind the target, have the discipline to pass up a shot in a potentially unsafe direction, and actually hit it.
In reply to jharry3 :
That 357 round hits 1400 in a handgun but in a rifle it's over 2000fps.
357 in a lever gun is very ballistically similar to a 30-30. I wouldn't use it in this situation
AIM's latest email, optics ready, Poverty Ponies for $550.
https://aimsurplus.com/anderson-manufacturing-am15-optic-ready-rifle/
Antihero (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to jharry3 :
That 357 round hits 1400 in a handgun but in a rifle it's over 2000fps.
357 in a lever gun is very ballistically similar to a 30-30. I wouldn't use it in this situation
I will have to politely disagree with you. A .357 Mag, 125 gr, even out of a rifle at 2000fps, is not going to match down range ballistics of a .30-30.with 125 gr at 2550 fps (fact checked). The projectile is longer and therefore has a better drag coefficient than the .357 which has a larger diameter and flatter face. Therefore the 125 grains is in a shorter projectile to achieve the same weigh.. And that projectile is more stubby faced. It decelerates more quickly from drag. Because it decelerates more quickly, and starts more slowly, the drop is more pronounced, as it takes longer to go the same distance. I realize everyone has an opinion. My opinion is the .357 Mag, out of a carbine at 80 yards, would be a good coyote choice.
There is a .357 Max, a much more powerful cartridge, that is like a .30-30 performance wise, maybe more so.
In reply to jharry3 :
Similar doesn't mean the same and we are talking 80 yards or less here, the downrange energy isn't really an issue here.
According to Buffalo bore they are getting 2153fps out of their 158gr and 2298fps out of their 125gr in an 18.5 inch barrel.
I couldn't find a 18.5 inch barrel 30-30 fast but a trapper 16 inch is producing 2284fps with a 150 and 2132fps with the 160s.
It's not exactly the same but it's close. My point was less that it's exact and more that it definitely wasn't going 1400 out of a rifle
In reply to Brett_Murphy (Ex-Patrón) :
I have one and it's my favorite gun. I HIGHLY recommend you ALL get one. 38 special is a cream puff and I can mow down steel plates like Jerry Miculek. Well, nobody's that fast but I feel like a badass.
I took at whitetail with a solid copper .357 at 100yards or so.
bobzilla said:In reply to lnlogauge :
It used to be $350-400 would get you an AR. I bought mine for $500 many yeas ago and it's claimed a few coyotes. 50gr .223 v-max drops a 'yote in their tracks.
A former co-worker told me he could build one without a serial number (legal) for less than $500. Now that was 2 years ago and I don't know how the current has effected the costs.
In reply to spitfirebill :
The lower receiver is currently one of the cheapest parts of the gun. Buying complete is still cheaper than building, you just may not get all the options you want.
In reply to spitfirebill :
There are companies that produce "80%" gun kits that up until recently were under $500. If I understand it correctly, it's a full kit but the lower receiver is unfinished and the kit includes the necessary tooling and instructions to finish it out. It is not a functional weapon and is therefore not required to be serialized. One is allowed to make ones own guns, within limit (no full autos, some others) and they are not required to have a serial number unless one intends to sell said weapon, at which point it would need to be serialized.
All that aside, good luck finding one right now. I know a couple folks who have been actively looking for some time and can't find anything at any price.
*I reserve the right to be completely wrong
In reply to barefootskater (Shaun) :
That is exactly what I understand it to be too. The "kit" comes with all the tooling you need. You just have to complete a couple of tasks.
Pretty sure 80% come with a jig and instructions, you supply the drill, bits, files and Dremel
If you're not too particular about your parts, it's still cheaper to assemble your own AR than purchase a complete rifle. Reference the PSA links above, there are cheaper parts still, Primary Arms is still selling Anderson lowers for $48, granted they sell out quickly when they're in stock. JSE had Gadsden Flag engraved Anderson lowers for $68 this past week, again sold out in < 3 minutes, but set up in stock notifications at all the vendors and make sure you have push notifications set up on your phone's email, there's no reason you can't eventually get something even now.
I've acquired all the parts to finish off a pair of lowers, been shopping since November, one is a 7.62x39 and the other is a 6.5 Grendel, they're all good parts, only thing I kind of cheaped out on was the handguards and one of the muzzle breaks, I've got less the $600 in the 7.62x39 and less than $700 in the Grendel. I even snagged a blem Stag Arms lower for $63 back in December, so now I've got another to build...
There's a lot of cheap parts now, way more than when I got started years ago. Even with the market kind of turned on its ear, stuff is still available. My brother-in-law built a really cheap AR out of a bunch of parts from 22Modsforall and a PSA lower. I had my reservations, but it's accurate enough for what it is, easily "Minute of Deer" accurate at 100 yards.
On the subject of 80% lowers, understand that's very much a marketing term, percentage finished matters not to the BATF it either is or isn't a "firearm." Marketing calls it an 80% because generally that's as complete as it can be made and not be considered a firearm.
I was an early adopter, I've got one of BRS' first or second runs of Billet 80 lowers. It didn't come with anything, just a chunk of aluminum that looked a lot like an AR15 lower receiver. It didn't come with a jig or any tooling, I had to purchase the jig in addition, I already had some of the tooling, but had to buy a longer end mill. You've got to mill our the fire control group pocket, trigger hole, and drill the fire control group pin holes to finish it.
All said and done, it's a nice lower, but there are WAY cheaper ways to get a lower, as cheap as Anderson and PSA lowers are (were), unless you just want a project, or can't buy a finished lower where you are, it's not worth it. Even the cheaper "80%" options all seem to cost more than a finished receiver, as long as you're not a felon and you live in a free state, there's no economical reason to build an 80%.
There may not be an economical reason, but making your own AR lower is still pretty cool.
They've been making them out of resin, too.
Went out again this morning with little bro. He's getting better every time. After he was able to hit clays at 35y every shot from a rest I had him move to a knee. Needs more practice.
I was testing whether split tip .22 were any less accurate than regular and I can't tell a difference on these cheap federal red box round nose. So that's something.
Then we were messing around seeing who could hit the 1" stick I put in the ground and I had a thing happen.
Apparently my marlin 60 didn't feed all the way (obviously I didn't notice) but I was still able to pull the trigger. It was loud. Everything and everyone are ok, but it shook me enough that I didn't try to use that gun again. I don't think it's anything other than dirty, but imma give it a real good look after kids are in bed. This rifle seems to get dirty fast. I cleaned it really well less than 200 rounds ago.
My son and I shoot Steel Challenge and go through 175 to 250 rounds a piece and sometimes start having problems towards the end. I've learned to keep an aerosol can of cleaner in my bag to blast out the big stuff. Especially the extractors. Pocket knife and a shot of spray and back to embarrassing the guys with $1500 race setups
Sorry, responding to the 200 rounds of 22 possibly causing problems.
I had a golden whatever end up inside the trigger group one time on an AR7, u shaped wrapped around a pin. If I hadn't heard the action make a funny noise it may have gotten ugly
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