Boom stick questions. Point me in the right direction.

jharry3 said:

In reply to Noddaz :  (Old shotgun)

The barrel comes off because its missing the fore-stock that has a latch in it to hold everything together, its missing the trigger guard, external hammers are missing,  probably the internal lock-work is a mess.

It looks alike a breech loading percussion with those percussion cap nipples sticking out.

I would not fire that thing on a bet.  Doubtful you would find the missing parts anyway.  Clean it up as a wall hanger/conversation piece.

 

I have been wanting an old rifle project.  But this one just isn't it.  Too old?  Maybe.  Too project?  Yes. 

OTOH, I did pick up some .223 for my more modern project this weekend.

I've been thinking of selling some irons.  I have a 45 Camp Carbine for which I'm wondering if I should buy a suppressor...  Either that or blueprint the receiver and start making one with a rail on the top chambered in 10mm Auto...  

In reply to stroker :

I am confused, why are they mutually exclusive? I have a .40 cal Osprey...

In reply to dean1484 :

Undecided on what optic really want to ultimately run on my AR10 (trying the SLx 3X for now, which I like, but REALLY considering either a 1x optic with 6X magnifier or fixed 5X power scope with offset reddot config for flexibility of everything from up-close to midrange use), but had similar delimma for the M1A. The Blackfeather RS chassis ordered last year for it finally came in and it's changed my mind on the M1A... finally good ergonomics with good looks - no way will get rid of it now no matter how it ends up shooting. With the new Blackfeather RS chassis setup (only test fitted so far, still need to break down the rifle to fully install it) was rethinking the optics and what want to run for a DMR-like midrange rifle. Had really been eyeing the Primary Arms PLx 1-8 LPVO, but not really keen on spending that much on the optics. Also wanting to keep weight down (talking an ~11lb bare rifle here where my fully loaded/kitted up Aero M5, including tactical brass catcher, is right around 11.5lbs- fully kitted M1A will be most likely just ~14lbs) and though the PLx 1-8 is pretty light and compact (just under 17oz) there are much lighter options which will work for medium range work.

That's where the upcoming Primary Arms SLx 5X micro-prism with the new Aurora Mil reticle comes in... a reticle that I REALLY like (non-BDC Mil based with good layout and adequate/not overly busy info for a bit smaller view area than normal scope) in a fixed 5x power optic that is 8.5 oz. Really like the view through the 3X version, the 5X will be same but with a really nice reticle with better precision sighting capability - it is the optic I've decided to run on the M1A... just waiting on it to be released.

Only issue with M1A and normal receiver rail mounting setups is getting a prism optic close enough to work... solving the issue requires sacrificing rear iron sight to use as a mounting point for an extended rail. Decided to go that route since using rear iron sight is more difficult/near impossible when running a chassis system & stock setup more geared to running optics. The 3X SLx on the M1A with standard Sadlak rail didn't work as it's way too far away for proper viewing through it - just ordered the extended CASM Gen II EX rail from M14.CA which will get most rearward mounting point all way to rear end of receiver (equivalent to the charging handle on an AR). Won't add any weight either, will be same as current Sadlak rail.

In reply to Vracer111 :

I saw the pic with the brass catcher you purchased. I run one myself when using brass I care about. What does yours weigh and what made you decide on that model?

In reply to Vracer111 :

I posted a while back that I was involved in some LPVO T&E for work before I retired, and it was specifically for .308 ARs in a DMR role.  IMHO, for a .308 you're going to want 8-10x on top at a minimum... even at that, you're leaving capability on the table.   You've spent the $$$ and time to get a chassis, why give up the additional capability that brings?  Personally, I'd put a 3-18x on that thing and let it stretch it's legs.

As far as price, there are some really good optics out there for under $1k... the Primary Arms PLX series are really good.  The Athlon Chronus and Ares optics I have are really good.  Even the Arken stuff has surprised me with the quality for the price point.  All that said, optics are kind of like tires... they're the ultimate point of interface between the operator and the environment.  It's worth spending the $$$ on the good stuff.  Does it really make sense to spend $1k on a chassis and then cheap out on the optic?

I have been eying the Primary Arms SLX 1-8x24FFP Rifle Scope - Illuminated ACSS Griffin X MIL Reticle

The problem is that the SLX line optics are not that great but jumping up to Filipino glass will almost triple the price and since I will, in reality, not shoot this rifle more than 500-600 yards I think this should be enough.  And yes I want an FFP.  I have used both FFP and SFP and vastly prefer it, especially the way Primary arms does their ridicles.

In reply to matthewmcl :

It's the Tactical Brass Recovery long frame Range model and weighs 8.5oz ... majority of that is the QD mount used on it as the frame is very light weight polymer.

https://www.tacticalbrassrecovery.com/ar-15-ar-10-long-frame-throw-lever-quick-detach-mount-brass-catcher/

Decided to go with it because liked how it was constructed and how solidly it mounts. Also nice to have a wide range of color options for the bag. Like the added function of the Operator model with swivel detent hinge... but not at nearly double the price and weight. The fixed but flexible Range model works fine and comes off quick if needed.

May work with the M1A too, the height might be a bit too low though, won't know until I mount the rail to chassis for attaching the catcher and test for any ejection issues into the pouch. They have one in work for M1A chassis systems but if this one works would be nice since no need to buy another...M1A really flings the brass way out.

In reply to Rodan :

I'm hoping the M1A is closer to MOA accuracy and consistency once completed (at minimum under 2 MOA), but have zero expectations of it being any kind of a precision weapon. What I'm envisioning for it is DMR'ish', which would be for up to 500-600ish yards max with 1-2MOA accuracy, but mainly 300 and in for quick fire ability with 'reasonable' accuracy for subpar MOA performing weapons. Fixed 5X or 6X will do nicely and not slow down rapid shot ability like the greater zoom levels will.

I'm all for max zoom ability with nice scopes on 1/2 MOA or better precision rifles... they actually can make use of the optical resolution because of their precision. For semi-auto rifles of subpar MOA performance would rather take an optic which allows for better rapid acquisition and shooting ability over one that magnifies more and makes it slower to get back on target since they really can't make full use of the higher magnification optics because of their imprecision. Anything over 8X would start to become a hindrance to me.

5X - 6X magnification is a sweet spot for medium range rapid shooting of subpar MOA accuracy rifles for me along with being about as light as possible for magnified optics. I really don't feel like wasting money and increasing weight on rifles which can't shoot precisely (which to me is 1/2 MOA or better) - if it can't shoot better than MOA I don't see a need for any kind of high magnification optic on it. In all honesty, I'd rather drop serious money on a high-power high-end scope for a nice air rifle or precision rimfire that is better than 1/2 MOA capable before I ever would think about one for any AR10 or M1A.

Simply don't see the need for high resolution optics on short barreled AR10s & the M1A - if I'm building an AR10 it will be a short barreled battle rifle configuration. For a long-range .308 platform, my preference is a precison bolt gun not any AR. For a long range precision rifle build yes to high magnification optics, but for ~600 yards and in battle rifle type build, no. For battle rifle build just want to be able to get the rounds down range quickly with good enough accuracy to hit intended targets and reduce bulk (both size & mass)/keep handling nimble. High quality, high magnification glass is physically large & very heavy... adding nearly 3lbs of optic & mounting setup is an absolute no go - the 5X micro prism setup is only a bit over 0.5lb (~ same as current 3X). That would take my Aero M5 build from ~11.5lbs to 14lbs fully loaded with Magpul 25 rd mag & brass catcher with no real improvement in shooting ability and a degradation in it's handling.

That's my take on optic magnification for AR's and the M1A and why prefer lower magnification.

In reply to dean1484 :

The nicer Phillipino glass (GLx series) LPVOs are only in 1-6 magnification and a good 4oz heavier, but only a bit over a hundred dollars more (or only $10 more for a blem unit, which will really be just like new). The ED Japanese glass (PLx series) in the 1-8 LPVOs is what's ~triple the cost of the SLx series 1-8 LPVOs, but they are also the lightest and smallest LPVO from Primary Arms.

I was teaching yesterday and threw my Ruger SFAR .308 in the truck so I could shoot a few rounds during the dinner break.   This is only the second time I've shot it, the first time off a bipod and first time suppressed.  Conditions were not ideal.  Cold and 15mph steady wind, gusting to 20, it was no value but made a steady hold difficult.

Only fired 10 rounds, 5 of Hornady 168gr TAP and 5 of Federal 168gr GMM BTHP.  Aside from the cold bore shot, the TAP was just under 1 MOA, and the GMM was 1.25 MOA.  I'm starting to think this rifle may just turn out to be a 1 MOA gun, which is a bit better than I had hoped for.  Did not change zero for the suppressor, so the groups were a couple inches off POA.

This makes ~30 rounds total through the rifle so far, so it's a long way from broken in but I'm encouraged.  1 MOA for an off the shelf .308 AR at this price point is definitely satisfactory.

Random revolver pic for a Thursday thread bump... 

Decided to do some shooting on Easter. This ain't bad for a 100 + year old 32acp pocket pistol with terrible sights really. I've barely fired it since I couldn't find ammo so once I got a better hang on the trigger i was getting much smaller groups.

In reply to Antihero :

So what is it?  Colt 1903?

Rodan said:

In reply to Antihero :

So what is it?  Colt 1903?

Think much much rarer, in fact it's not a gun usually even chambered in 32 and I was originally looking for the 380 version but it's rare enough that I just grabbed whatever I could get.

It's a Remington 51

Finished my Sons Of Liberty build. Been working on getting the parts I wanted for this sinc December.  Test fired over the weekend.  The best way to describe it is that it is just another very good quality light weight AR-15. I did have it custom seri coated. The one difference that I noticed is it is very soft shooting compared to other ARs. I should look at the buffer and see what number it is.  I thought it was an H1 but it is shooting like a H3.  Gas seemed perfect it was ejecting at 3:30-4:00.  Optics were the the test optics I keep around so I need to settle on something for that as well.  

Antihero said:

It's a Remington 51

Nice!  That's a rare bird, indeed.

I took a couple of oldsters (though not quite 1920s) to the range this morning...

S&W K22 1st Model Outdoorsman, .22lr, made ~1937.  24rnds offhand (old school bullseye) at 50ft...

Manhurin (Walther) PP, .32ACP, circa ~1953.  10rnds combat (two handed) at 10yds...

I've long preferred .32 in little autos.  I've found them usually to be more accurate than the same guns in .380.  I'm still looking for the right Colt 1903 Pocket Auto.  Had one years ago and foolishly sold it.

In reply to Rodan :

Nice Walther there, I've somehow never managed to get one even though I've thought they were really cool.

I passed on a 51 years ago because I was stupid and trying to conserve money, it was stunningly cheap too damn it. Fast forward to the local gun showlast year in the Junior High( that's a story for another time) and there was a guy selling this 32acp version for cheap too( $325) I snagged it and have barely been able to shoot it since. It's a hell of a lot more fun than a 100 year old pocket pistol with basically no sights should be. I'm very happy I got it. I'll have to get another magazine soon, this one is very loose but it's mostly been reliable. I got some Norma ammo and it's very inconsistent so I'm not sure if I can blame the gun for the 2 FTE I got in that box but it was reliable with the other stuff I bought.

Also passed up on a Mauser 1910 at roughly the same time because I really didn't have much use for a 25acp , and still don't really, and my money needed to go elsewhere. I'd love to get one someday too

Just ordered a Ruger LCP Max. 

I was looking at Glocks but I simply cannot get over their looks. However, I am curious about the Bul Armory Axe C Cleaver. Glock17 clone that is supposedly better and at the same price. 

yupididit said:

Just ordered a Ruger LCP Max. 

I was looking at Glocks but I simply cannot get over their looks. However, I am curious about the Bul Armory Axe C Cleaver. Glock17 clone that is supposedly better and at the same price. 

My advice to anyone shopping is to shoot everything you are interested in and then get what feels right.  Chosing on looks cannot top that method IMO.  I've taught many of my wife's friends and people that came from places where there were no firearms for civilians.  I make them shoot almost anything I own or can find and then tell them to get what feels right to them.  I shoot better if the firearm feels better to me.

In reply to AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) :

I've shot some first others I just buy. If I don't like it, I sell it. Don't always have the time or luxury to find and shoot everything before I buy.

stroker said:

I've been thinking of selling some irons.  I have a 45 Camp Carbine for which I'm wondering if I should buy a suppressor...  Either that or blueprint the receiver and start making one with a rail on the top chambered in 10mm Auto...  

10mm carbines are always cool, that's my vote

In reply to Antihero :

Might want to make sure the bullet weight is compatible with the barrel twist, it looks like some of those are keyholing

Strizzo said:

In reply to Antihero :

Might want to make sure the bullet weight is compatible with the barrel twist, it looks like some of those are keyholing

It was just a box on the ground so there was some angle at play. And a few of those are actually 2 right beside each other. 

Got this home last week. Perfect for summer carry.