In reply to Brett_Murphy (Agent of Chaos) :
I usually use a grad 8 carriage bolt through the steel then offset the hanger strap by an inch or so and that gets me a nice angle that deflects down for the most part. The carriage bolt will deflect the splatter very well so it does not get damaged very much. I hate it when I hit the face of the carriage bolts though. With the 308 it will shatter the head of the carriage bolt and punch the carriage bolt out of the steel.
I may have just ordered some $30 stripped lowers from Palmetto, along with some mil-surplus ammo.
The lowers will wind up costing closer to $90 each after tax, shipping and transfer paperwork.
In reply to Brett_Murphy (Agent of Chaos) :
Every time I see them pushing a sale on lowers, I mentally add tax, shipping, FFL, and transfer fees and it never makes sense. Local place has regular sales on Anderson jobs for $49...
You can put 4 serial numbers on a single form, so that helps with transfer costs. You can actually add more, but many on the other side of the counter are not familiar with that route. There is a guy out this way that will do a transfer for $10 or so, if you have a concealed permit since that simplifies things and some FFLs try to support that (card carrying good guy for the win).
At the same time, it is really hard to beat a $49 Anderson. Even if somebody wats to look down their nose at one brand or another, the lower doesn't actually do anything important, so who cares? Sure, the old Olympic Arms lowers made from 1100 series aluminum are worth avoiding, but you can make the things out of plastic and they still work fine.
A couple of plinkers. They both started in .32 colt, and were converted to .32 colt new police (32 S&W long).
The Marlin is a model '92 from 1908 and the colt is a Police positive target from 1909.
I need to get the little button for the end of the ejector rod on the colt.
for steel plate, I have used these:
Hang N' Hook (Brackets and Hooks) (yankeethunder.com)
Bought some when they first came out - I *think* they were the first to make 'em, but there are a LOT of similar products out there now. Rewarding smart engineering with my $.
One hook is nearly done when it took a near-direct hit with .223 (I think. Might have been .308) but otherwise they have held up pretty well.
The 'top hook' aspect should mean things tent to splash downwards at the ground (with hardened targets) .
(they have added a video with 'splash' demo since I bought them... https://youtu.be/aUs0gWFTimk)
In reply to Greg Smith (Forum Supporter) :
Those look good. All the steel I've ever shot at has been on some hook or other, aside from my piece of mild that doesn't stop anything other than .22.
I usually use paper or clays. I have a growing collection of glass bottles but I don't want to shoot those on public land.
Discount store soda cans are entertaining, but the cleanup is messy.
In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :
If you've got the room to make and transport them, big ice cubes give the same effect as glass, and there is zero cleanup.
Brett_Murphy (Agent of Chaos) said:In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :
If you've got the room to make and transport them, big ice cubes give the same effect as glass, and there is zero cleanup.
I knew a guy that would take a sack of potatoes out. He would shoot them until the bits were too hard to hit and that was that.
In reply to matthewmcl :
For some reason I can't think of anything that sounds more fun right now than spending a couple hours blasting spuds with a 22. Thanks for the idea.
The time has come around again where I'm intrigued by pistols. For simplicity/cost/availability, we'll stick to 9mm. For similar reasons, I'm fairly settled on one of the Austrian offerings, likely a 17 or 19. I know there are folks who hate and love these for various reasons. I've spent some time behind a 19, and quite like them. Also, Lego parts and speed catalogs.
This will not be a carry piece, so size is not a huge concern aside from wanting a decent length barrel for (hopefully) more accuracy.
Capacity is a concern, so a 9x1911 is out.
It should be noted, I have a good friend who no longer needs his p320-m18, but similar money gets the G with a couple bolt-ons.
Any thoughts? Suggestions?
Canik should be on your list. I highly recommend a Mete sfx. Add an RDO and you will feel like you are cheating when it comes to hitting stuff.
I think I may have posted up a photo of mine in this thread a while back.
17 vs 19. They balance differently. Decide whether balance full or empty or half or whatever is more important. Pick the one that you like the balance on.
Optics can be had cheap, so keep optics an option (cut slide).
Separately, I have a macro grip on a P365 xl and I really like that.
In reply to dean1484 :
This same friend has that canik, so once we can make our schedules line up I'll go run both.
Nothing wrong with a G17... they're a very good choice. Maybe a G34 if you want more barrel.
I'm personally a big fan of the S&W M&Ps... all the utility without the extreme grip angle, and a somewhat adaptable grip size. The add-on backstraps on newer Gs just go from big to bigger. The S&W can actually fit smaller hands. And metal mags almost always drop free...
I've had several, and have never experienced a benefit to the difference between 4.25" of barrel and 5" of barrel. YMMV.
Gs have the advantage in aftermarket, but not by a lot these days.
Both Gs and M&Ps are pretty easy to find as LE turn-ins. I've aslo heard good things about the PSA Dagger G clones if you're looking for new at lower pricing. The Ruger American is probably Ruger's best attempt so far, but still falls considerably short.
There are some hi-cap 1911 9mms these days, but they are at the higher end of the price scale... Wilson, Staccato, and the more reasonable Springfield Prodigy. The Wilson and Staccato are excellent. I haven't had the opportunity to shoot a Prodigy yet.
Someone will probably chime in about CZs... I have no personal experience to offer with them.
barefootcyborg5000 said:In reply to dean1484 :
This same friend has that canik, so once we can make our schedules line up I'll go run both.
Mine started as this.
Installed the flared mag well that came with it and added the RDO (with a plate) and it ended up like this. This is probably the most accurate pistol I have. I feel like I am cheating when I shoot with it.
You can not miss with it. If there are any new shooters at the range or someone that has never shot before I always have then shoot this before anything else. I personally like the meta better than the rival and its variants. I have shot both and this to me has a better trigger. A better trigger makes you a better shooter. It is also a bit less flashy than the Rival. I have shot this back-to-back with many of the other pistols you mentioned and the Canik is just better, especially for the $$$. You can make a 19 and all its other numerical cousins shoot as well but you will have to add/upgrade the trigger and the slide and other things and they shoot great but you are starting with a pistol that costs 2-300 more and then you have to add another couple hundred on top of it to get it up to par with the Mete as it comes out of the box.
Another place to look would be CZ. A Po9 or a P10 are both very nice. Or if you want to be different go with a CZ75D Compact PCR. A bit old school as you don't get an optic cut (you can get the Po1 for that) but the 75d is an all-metal frame where as the p01 is polymer. The 75d compact PCR is a small pistol that shoots like a full frame. I picked on up a while back. It is a very fun little pistol. (I have the 75d Compact PCR and the P09) I had shot the P10 a couple of times.
If you want something really nice and have the budget a USP expert in 9mm is just a fantastic pistol ($1,300 - $1,500). OR a Sig SAO P226 legion ($1,300 - $1,400) The USP does not come with an optics cut but it is a fantastically accurate pistol. One of the few that I can shoot at 100 yards with irons and hit an 8" plate (most of the time). The Sig is just a fantastic pistol. It has that expensive Swiss watch feeling and shoots equally as well. Highly recommend and you can put an RDO on it. Sadly while I really like both of these (I have them both) if I had one chance to make that one shot and I had to choose from my pistol collection I would take the Canik Mete. It really is just that good.
matthewmcl said:17 vs 19. They balance differently. Decide whether balance full or empty or half or whatever is more important. Pick the one that you like the balance on.
Optics can be had cheap, so keep optics an option (cut slide).
Separately, I have a macro grip on a P365 xl and I really like that.
I also have a P365XL and I can not hit the broad side of a barn with it. I added a Hoge Grip. No change. I have had a couple of other people shoot it and the result is always the same. At 10 yards we are shooting 12" groups around the target. I really think I need to send it back to Sig. I am now wondering if somthing is wrong with it. It does everything else really well except for hitting what I am aiming at. Sucks as it was an expensive pistol for what it was when I got it.
I have shot a couple of others owned by friends and I can get consistent 3" groups at 10 yards with those 365Xl.
Another data point is I have a VP9 and the 75d compact and both are similar in size and I can shoot both of them very well. So I don't think it is it just being a small pistol that is the issue.
Does anyone have an idea as to what could be causing this on mine? I have looked it over carefully but can not find anything.
dean1484 said:I also have a P365XL and I can not hit the broad side of a barn with it. I added a Hoge Grip. No change. I have had a couple of other people shoot it and the result is always the same. At 10 yards we are shooting 12" groups around the target. I really think I need to send it back to Sig. I am now wondering if somthing is wrong with it. It does everything else really well except for hitting what I am aiming at. Sucks as it was an expensive pistol for what it was when I got it.
I have a P365XL, and it is an amazing little gun. There has to be something wrong with yours. I don't know how Sig managed it, but the XL shoots like a much larger gun. The P365 series has become my go-to for carry, but the XL shoots the best. For an empirical example, I've shot dynamic drills (multiple targets, movement, reloads, etc) with the 365XL and the full size M&P 2.0 in my pic above, back to back. Both have red dots, and the P365XL is consistently within 1-2 seconds of the full size gun over a 16-20 second drill. Accuracy has never been a problem, even out to 25 yards.
The first thing I would check is the sights to see if they were loose, next check the barrel to slide tightness. Those are the two things that are most going to affect consistent POA/POI. If you can't find anything obvious, and other shooters are having the same issues with the gun, it should go back to SIG.
The local indoor range does rentals, so I think maybe trying a few on for size is appropriate.
Buddy does swear by his Canik, but when we go out with the long-uns my "cheap" PSA out performs both his Aero and Daniel Defense pieces. That's after all his talk about "more refined/modern/ergonomic" whatever. Eh.
Scheduling play dates is way trickier as an grown-up.
I have a p365xl.
It's a great little gun. I would buy again.
The only downside I've found is $60 mags.
Folgers said:I have a p365xl.
It's a great little gun. I would buy again.
The only downside I've found is $60 mags.
I would be willing to deal on some 15 round mags. I expect to use it almost exclusive as a macro.
In reply to matthewmcl :
That would be great! Pm me.
Anyone been involved with one of these shooting matches?
In reply to Noddaz :
I have not, but I would like to. They are not that far from me. Of course, also very close to barefootcyborg5000 and another or two. Perhaps we should do a GRM team. I would like to get a kettlebell for practice exercises.
VERY close, and far enough out to give some practice time. I need to remember to keep an eye on that.
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