barefootcyborg5000 said:
In reply to Beer Baron 🍺 :
I prefer as much angle on guitars as I can get away with, but bass is a lot more forgiving on those fine adjustments since the scale is so much longer.
Edit: Okay looked it up and understand now. It is what I was thinking. Looks like that will accomplish what I want. I'll check the sizes are right and order a cheap kit off of amazone.
Install them when I make a groove for the truss rod.
Double edit: Also realized I can cut the groove in the body to access the truss rod, and not mess with the pickguard yet. I'll have to remove the pickguard to adjust the relief, but that's fine. I'd rather do that than take the neck off. Especially since I can make an adjustment, test, and readjust without putting everything back together. ...And it will hid the sins of however bad a job I do on the groove.
In reply to Beer Baron 🍺 :
1.5mm is both not a lot and quite a bit weirdly. I wonder if that is like an Squier Affinity body of something because at least in the guitar world they are thinner. A Warmoth neck would fit it perfectly. Maybe it's not Warmoth instead?
I don't do fretless, not really a fan of it except in perfect circumstances, but without frets you should be able to get very low as long as you use a light touch. Personally I like high action on most things because I don't compress anything and I want the extra dynamic range of beating the ever living berkeley balls out of something when appropriate. Or really not appropriate either lol
In reply to Antihero :
I'm actually just comparing the thickness at the heel to the neck on my Reverend, and guessing that's the right thickness, but could be totally different. Probably just neck angle from probably changes in the body over time.
I suspect if there is an issue, it's because this warmoth neck is designed to go with a modern Fender P body, and they've just made a few desing changes since this body was made. It would not surprise me at all if Fender is making they're bodies and necks just a hair thinner than they used to to save on wood and weight.
Anyway, got shims in and will cut out the notch and customize either tomorrow or Monday.
And yeah, I like low or medium-low action. On fretless, I like getting the action as low as I can without buzzing in order to maximize "Mwaawh". Fretless usually likes a soft touch better. It actually plays loudest if I can manage to just *barely* graze the strings with the tip of my finger.
I don't know enough about the California series to say one way or another, the ones I've seen are P/J basses I believe, just surprised it changed enough to make a difference over the years.
The baritone conversion neck I had would bolt to everything
In reply to Antihero :
Corona, CA is where their flagship US factory is. So just means (assuming the neck plate is original) it was a U.S. made bass.
I don't think it has changed majorly over the years. They moved the truss rod adjustment from the head to the body side.
They may or may not have made the bodies thinner over time. I don't know. I know that people *used* to think that having a thicker/heavier body made the bass more resonant or have better sustain.
Beer Baron 🍺 said:
I know that people *used* to think that having a thicker/heavier body made the bass more resonant or have better sustain.
sustain is an odd thing, and people can be oddly superstitious. I have a mahogany jazz bass with a maple neck from the seventies that weighs a metric ton and sustains very well. I also have a cort, swamp ash and rosewood/maple 5-piece neck that sustains with the best of them, though it's about 5lbs lighter. Neither really matter what string gauge, or what tuning. I've heard (on internet and from reputable luthiers) that weight is a direct relation to sustain, or that heavier strings=more or whatever, but I don't know that any of it is gospel. At this point I've played enough instruments to understand what I like and to know that I can't trust anything I can't hold in my hands first. YMMV.
Oy. Getting the new fretless setup was a PITA. Mostly of my own doing. But IT IS ALL GOOD NOW!
Short version:
Stage 1: Took apart. Cut out slot to access truss rod. Added 0.5* shim. Put together. Too much shim. Swapped out for 0.25*. Overtightened E string and snapped it.
Stage 2: La Bella flats. Get it all put together. Set up properly. Go to test it out... and it doesn't work. berkeley!
Stage 3: Open it up, and I pulled a wire loose from the volume pot. Resolder. Now working fine. Wondering if maybe I should have gotten lighter strings (I normally play 45 - 100. I had the choice of 40-100 or 45-105. Went with larger. We'll see.)
It is definitely a Warmoth neck. The rest of the bass was made in 1998.
In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :
Right at home with the others :)
In reply to BlueInGreen - Jon :
Glad to see it arrived safely!
Not quite as sexy, but I splurged on a brand new 4x10 cab. Got a good deal though. GC already had them on discount, and this one was open box. Then I talked them into giving me free shipping.
800 watts handling. 4ohm impedence.
