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Mazdax605
Mazdax605 Dork
2/7/12 9:50 a.m.

Hey guys,

I know little to nothing about RC cars, but I have found one that I would like to get, and have questions. I am looking at this model:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-58493-1-10-Mazda-RX-7-M06-w-ESC-/280751103724?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item415e11deec

It seems they all come without the radio equipment,and battery/charger. What is best to do about those items for this particular unit? Is painting these bodies really tough? How long should it take to get ready to use? Is there a better battery to get prolonged use out of? Are these Tamiya models good ones?

I plan on painting it yellow like my 79 SA if I get it, and maybe making the tailights look more SA like rather than the FB ones on this model.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

grinch77
grinch77 Reader
2/7/12 12:34 p.m.

That model comes with a speed controller so your good there.All you would need is radio,servo and a battery and charger.That kit for someone new to RC is perfect should take you about four to five hours to assemble it just take your time.Painting the bodies is easy just mask the windows and shoot the color of choice but you do paint the inside not the outside.Tamiya make some of the best RC kits in the world the quality is top notch even in the starter kits and there pretty durable.

As for radios just get a cheap two channel Futaba and as for battery get a lipo set up last longer and less maintenance than NiCad or NIMH.

grinch77
grinch77 Reader
2/7/12 12:39 p.m.

Just noticed it's a M-06 also there are tons of hop ups and other bodies you can run on that chassis.

https://www.google.com/search?q=+M06&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#q=tamiya+m06+hop+ups&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=bMW&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=imvns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&psj=1&ei=mW8xT7_bOOjy2QXNmvThBw&ved=0CGgQrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.,cf.osb&fp=93a6d478fae3f98f&biw=1280&bih=886

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr Reader
2/7/12 12:44 p.m.

Okay, here goes...

I think you are stuck with a NiMH or NiCD battery with this one. You can find them all over the interwebs like this one (about $45.00): http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSFS8&P=FR

Next, you need a charger that is a "peak type" charger. You will need one capable of charging NiMH at least. If you get bitten by the bug, you will want to get a faster car that will most likely be able to have a LiPo battery. If this might be the case, you might want to get a charger that can do LiPo as well. Such as (about $100.00): http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTCK1&P=ML

If you dont think you need such a capable charger, get one of these (About $40.00): http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTCJ8&P=ML

Finally, you need a radio to control it. I would recommend something simple for this car. However, if you get big time into this, now is the time to get a good radio. They make a huge difference when racing. The good but cheap stuff would be this(about $70.00): http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXENN0**&P=7

For race stuff, I would recommend this (about $160.00): http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/dx2s-dsm-2-ch-transmitter-and-receiver-SPM2121

If the kit has a clear lexan body (which I'm not sure) you paint the INSIDE of the body. If it is a harder plastic that is not clear, you paint the outside. You must use a hobby type paint like Pactra.

The chassis from Tamiya are fun to run, but NOT the fastest or most adjustable. This would be a good model to play around (especially indoors or on VERY smooth parking lots). The detail on the body should be excellent.

The reason to go with NiMH over NiCD is simple. NiCD is about 15 year old tech. The newer NiMH batteries last alot longer and are less prone to damage. DO NOT OVERCHARGE ANY BATTERIES. THEY BLOW UP! When they get warm while charging, pull them off the charger.

You can get everything you need to run this car used. Most racers cast off last years stuff for little to no cash. An older race radio, battery, and charger could be yours for free on up to $200.00.

If you are anywhere near the Pittsburgh area, I have stuff that you can have (except for a charger).

P.S. I have been racing on road and off road for over 20 years now. Up until this year, I was very competitive in 1/10th scale sedan racing in the NE U.S. This year I have focused on LeMons racing.

If you have any other questions, feel free to give me a shout!

Rob R.

mndsm
mndsm SuperDork
2/7/12 12:57 p.m.

I'm not even gonna start. I already got two RC's I need ready for the summer, and two real cars... and then autox... oh god.

4cylndrfury
4cylndrfury SuperDork
2/7/12 1:45 p.m.

Lol, I got a pretty good, water cooled electric RC boat for xmas...I have seen the same model run and its pretty fast and turns on a dime. Ive not even unboxed mine yet, and already have LiPo plans for it, as well as motor upgrades.

wvumtnbkr - thanks for the tech info and the examples...that kinda stuff is great for us newbs...

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr Reader
2/7/12 4:30 p.m.

I forgot some points I wanted to address:

First, the higher the MaH rating on a battery, the longer it will last. It will not make the car go any faster, it will just run longer.

Next, brushed motors (like the one in this kit) aren't really supported any longer. You can still get older ones, or similar ones to the one in the kit, but nobody is making any hi powered ones any more (Brushless motors are the new thing).

With Brushless motors you also need a new speed control. These can be pricey. Again, used is probably the way to go here.

I would not worry about the brushed / brushless situation with a car like this. It can run forever with the motor in the kit. If you start getting bored with the speed it runs (who doesn't want to go faster?) go ask a racer for an old brushed motor. They WILL give you one for free.

Radios (controllers): There are 3 types of radios out there in 2 general categories.

The 2 general categories are pistol shaped radios and 2 stick type radios. The pistol shaped radios are for surface control (on the ground or water). They are made for r/c cars and boats only.

The 3 types of radios are AM, FM, and DSM. The AM are the most prone to glitching or other interference (watch the movie "The Deadpool" with Clint Eastwood and you will know what I mean.). You have to change crystals to change channels.

FM was the standard for YEARS! it was pretty trouble free and didn't get many glitches. You have to change crystals to change channels.

DSM is teh E36 M3! (And you don't have to worry about crank walk!) DSM automagically recognizes the transmitter and receiver and develops its own recognition system.

Basically, it is mostly immune to glitching AND you don't have to wory about changing channels (crystals) if you run with a bunch of friends. It does it automagically by pushing and holding a button for a few seconds.

When I think of some more things that might be helpful, I will add another post.

Rob R.

Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon SuperDork
2/7/12 4:36 p.m.

My last bout with R/C became an obsession. Get thee away from me, Satan.

Volksrodden
Volksrodden Dork
2/7/12 4:55 p.m.

The orange and blue beetle on my avitar is a mo6 pro, far as the running gear it was "stuff" I had laying around. It has a Traxxas xl5 ESC, reedy atomic brush motor (witch is more then what the chassis can handle) and a hitec servo. The car is hoot to play around with. The build time should be around 5-6 hours.

Strizzo
Strizzo SuperDork
2/8/12 1:35 p.m.

I think it's been mostly covered but I will add that if you're buying one of the tamiya kits you'll need to get a radio with two servos, one for steering and one that operates the mechanical speed control. If you use lipos, youd need at te least a low voltage alarm if not something that will cutoff power at low voltage to avoid damaging the cells. Or just stick with a cheap reliable nimh pack.

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr Reader
2/8/12 1:50 p.m.

This car comes with an ESC, so you only need one servo (for steering).

Also, I just noticed that this car WILL accept a LiPo pack. This would give you more power and lighter weight.

However, what Strizzo said is right. You CAN over discharge a LiPo pack and cause issues (Like fire!). You MUST have a voltage alarm OR Stop using the car immediately if it starts to slow down. Don't even bring it back from 30 feet away. Stop it where it is and unplug the battery.

Have fun!

Strizzo
Strizzo SuperDork
2/8/12 2:40 p.m.

We had someone drop a 6s 5000 pack from a heli in the parking lot and rupture a cell a while back, was interesting to see how they melt down.

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr Reader
2/8/12 3:35 p.m.

I was at the Cleveland Indoor Champs in 2010. I was near the track talking to some friends of mine when a car just stopped at the end of the straight. The guy driving was yelling that it just died.

I noticed that it had a glimmer under the body that was getting bigger!

I grabbed it and ran out the door behind me into the parking lot. I put the car down and started ripping the body off. My friend had grabbed some pliers and an allen wrench.

While the car was on fire, I got the battery out and flung it on the ground. The battery kept getting hotter and hotter with larger flames coming out of it.

I saved the car and most of the electronics. However, where the battery had been flung there was a painted area (for a fire zone). The paint was melted and still was the last time I was there (Thanksgiving 2011).

Those batteries hold ALOT of energy. You can easily weld with them (ask me how I know!).

NickF40
NickF40 Dork
2/8/12 6:01 p.m.

RC cars.....yeah, i've owned about 25 now and spent thousands of dollars and been into RC's for over 11 years now.....and i'm 21 now. This is the last thread I needed to see lol

Appleseed
Appleseed SuperDork
2/8/12 6:33 p.m.

LiPos can burn down a house. It has actually. Two Ziplock bags of sand to sandwich the batt. between while charging is safe.

mmosbey
mmosbey Reader
2/8/12 8:25 p.m.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58493savanna_rx7/index.htm

I just found it last weekend, and I'm pretty excited.

Know that it's also available from most US retailers, including Tower Hobbies and your local hobby shop. Buying from the local hobby shop may be smart if this is your first car. Tamiya has some of the most detailed bodies, and some of the best instructions available, but having a dude around the corner who will look at your car is good.

While I'm not normally a big fan of replacing all of the parts on a car before its built, consider buying ball bearings for the M06 chassis at the same time. Ball bearings are more expensive, so they're not standard, but they spin true, last longer, and reduce friction, increasing battery life. Installing bearings generally involves significant disassembly, so buying them up front is smart.

Also, check out their Youtube timelapse of a full build of this kit:

http://youtu.be/Lg37waSaluM

friedgreencorrado
friedgreencorrado SuperDork
2/8/12 8:37 p.m.

Bad time for this thread to come around..cleaning out the shed when we moved, I found a box. In the box, Associated RC12 onroad, Tamiya TA01 tub & parts, and Tamiya FF01 complete. Couple of nicad packs, a charger, and bodies for for 1/12 and 1/10.

If my ancient Magnum Jr. had been in the same box, I'd already be scaring the neighborhood cats.

friedgreencorrado
friedgreencorrado SuperDork
2/8/12 9:37 p.m.
Mazdax605 wrote: Hey guys, I know little to nothing about RC cars, but I have found one that I would like to get, and have questions. I am looking at this model: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-58493-1-10-Mazda-RX-7-M06-w-ESC-/280751103724?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item415e11deec It seems they all come without the radio equipment,and battery/charger. What is best to do about those items for this particular unit? Is painting these bodies really tough? How long should it take to get ready to use? Is there a better battery to get prolonged use out of? Are these Tamiya models good ones? I plan on painting it yellow like my 79 SA if I get it, and maybe making the tailights look more SA like rather than the FB ones on this model. Thanks in advance, Chris

I just noticed all of us old R/C car guys may have missed the point of your question, since we were all reminiscing amongst ourselves. I missed your "next to nothing" statement the first time, apologies if going back to basics is an insult. I don't mean it that way at all!

Real (i.e., not what you buy for your kids at Radio Shack) R/C cars are like R/C airplanes. The kit's only about half of what you need. First thing, the radio gear is more complicated, but also more robust (and more versatile). You'll be able to use it in more than one model. I'd suggest buying a new one, they're all digital now, and you don't have to change crystals to find a clean frequency anymore.

I'm a big Futaba fan, their "budget" model is the 2PH. Find the right hobby shop, you can score it for $50. http://www.futaba-rc.com/systems/futj13.html

Then, you need power for your motor. I'd recommend staying away from the various racing motors and batt packs on your first model. (aside to the others..I had to look up LiPo..holy E36 M3, are they really legal for hobby purposes? I get more of a legal hassle on my model rocketry crap, and we've never burned down a house!!)

Again, I suggest treating it like the model airplane folks do. Find a simple one to start learning how to build (including integrating the radio gear..that's important!), keep it low powered until you learn to operate it, and have fun at your own level.

asterisk
asterisk New Reader
2/8/12 9:55 p.m.

I have a couple of the older M-chassis cars and in stock form (with bearings replacing the bushings) they will run upwards of 30 minutes on NiMH while backyard bashing so no need to spring for Lipo right out of the gate.

Appleseed
Appleseed SuperDork
2/9/12 12:08 a.m.

Unfortunately, most cars are Ready To Run. Kits are few and fare between. It was fun spending a couple of nights after school building your new car. You knew how to take it apart and fix it cause you built the thing. I even enjoyed painting the body.

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr Reader
2/9/12 8:10 a.m.
friedgreencorrado wrote:
Mazdax605 wrote: Hey guys, I know little to nothing about RC cars, but I have found one that I would like to get, and have questions. I am looking at this model: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-58493-1-10-Mazda-RX-7-M06-w-ESC-/280751103724?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item415e11deec It seems they all come without the radio equipment,and battery/charger. What is best to do about those items for this particular unit? Is painting these bodies really tough? How long should it take to get ready to use? Is there a better battery to get prolonged use out of? Are these Tamiya models good ones? I plan on painting it yellow like my 79 SA if I get it, and maybe making the tailights look more SA like rather than the FB ones on this model. Thanks in advance, Chris
Real (i.e., not what you buy for your kids at Radio Shack) R/C cars are like R/C airplanes. The kit's only about half of what you need. First thing, the radio gear is more complicated, but also more robust (and more versatile). You'll be able to use it in more than one model. I'd suggest buying a new one, they're all digital now, and you don't have to change crystals to find a clean frequency anymore. I'm a big Futaba fan, their "budget" model is the 2PH. Find the right hobby shop, you can score it for $50. http://www.futaba-rc.com/systems/futj13.html

The radio you listed does have crystals that need changed. If teh radio says AM or FM, it will have some sort of crystal device.

ultraclyde
ultraclyde HalfDork
2/9/12 9:08 a.m.

It occurs to me reading this thread that I have an old Traxxas stadium truck (Hawk IIRC?) sitting in a box in my shop. The last time I ran it was in college, I pretty much gave up on RC when I could drive a real car. Needs a radio and an ESC. dammit man, now I want to craigsource a radio and scare the dogs.

slefain
slefain SuperDork
2/9/12 10:17 a.m.
friedgreencorrado wrote: Bad time for this thread to come around..cleaning out the shed when we moved, I found a box. In the box, Associated RC12 onroad, Tamiya TA01 tub & parts, and Tamiya FF01 complete. Couple of nicad packs, a charger, and bodies for for 1/12 and 1/10. If my ancient Magnum Jr. had been in the same box, I'd already be scaring the neighborhood cats.

I just had the same thing happen. Messing around in the garage found a box marked "R/C Cars" on the outside. It has my old Tyco Fast Traxx and a RadioShack 4x4 in it, along with my old battery charger. Five minutes later I had found my old battery packs and was charging them up. I used to have a couple of hobby grade R/Cs and the 6-cell 7.2v battery packs will make a toy-grade R/C car run like a scalded dog. The Fast Traxx is stupid fast for a toy and darn near unstoppable. I handed the truck remote to my 2-year old son and I was running the Fast Traxx. My son loved it, I even gave him a turn on the Fast Traxx. Sure he is pretty much only able to make them go in circles, but he will learn. I told my wife to expect matching Father - Son R/C purchases in the future. I've already been cruising Tower Hobbies for ideas. We have a pretty rough back yard so we may start with a Tamiya Lunchbox and a Midnight Pumpkin.

ultraclyde
ultraclyde HalfDork
2/9/12 11:18 a.m.

I went from here to the Tamiya site. they've reissued a lot of the mid 80's stuff, including my first the Grasshopper buggy. Man that thing was a blast and took stupid amounts of punishment. With the bigger motor I put in you could be running full out forward and throw it into full reverse, it would pivot 180 degrees and just keep hauling - but now running backwards.

Geez that brings back memories! gonna be hard to ignore those as cheap as they are....

mndsm
mndsm SuperDork
2/9/12 12:21 p.m.
Curmudgeon wrote: My last bout with R/C became an obsession. Get thee away from me, Satan.

Same problem I'm having.

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