I purchased and prepped a few 90s cars last night. Can i add ballast weight to get the 450pp? One of my cars came out at 451. If not i can remove a part and get back to 442
I purchased and prepped a few 90s cars last night. Can i add ballast weight to get the 450pp? One of my cars came out at 451. If not i can remove a part and get back to 442
Weight can be added, just not moved (must be at 50%) setting.
If you guys get a chance, please check out the Series 8 thread and make sure the info of the series there is correct. I am trying to fill it in. I am sure there are at least a few things missing.
Not sure how we want to handicap each series. The EuroGT series is self-handicapping, but the others will likely need PP adjustments. Dean wanted to try boosting the low finishers on a sliding scale. This could work, but the mmR is already maxed out (we could give them NOS 
)
Race type is also not solid yet. Two sprint races for each series? (which is the default)
aircooled wrote: Weight can be added, just not moved (must be at 50%) setting.
Moving weight is permitted in the 90s series, just not in the euro GT series. The only thing you can't do in the 90s series is aero, everything else is open.
Oh, OK. I suspect this has a lot to do with how close the cars are also.
aircooled wrote: If you guys get a chance, please check out the Series 8 thread and make sure the info of the series there is correct. I am trying to fill it in. I am sure there are at least a few things missing.
PP for the GT cars is 550 not 510. 510 is for the MMC series I must have made a typo in my description.
And the KG is 1500 not 1550. Again from the MMC series testing I think.
In reply to aircooled:
It does. Being able to move weight can help tune out some inherent weaknesses in cars, which goes a long way to equalizing the cars.
Quoting my self here for you air so I / we don't screw it up. I think the rest of the MMC rules are the same.
dean1484 said: The GT cars last night were a big success. The formula was 550 pp and 1500 kg on sport soft tires. Everything else was the same as the MMC cars.
And I will put this here so you can copy it if you want.
I recommend tuning cars in the order as I list the requirements.
Is there an oil change in the MMR cup cars? What is the max pp? 519???
I was looking at the pick order on the GT cars and I don't mind picking first but if we are going by last season and the revers order was I that far back in the standings that I get to pick first? Or are we picking in order of finish from last season just for the first race?
e30Matt wrote: In reply to aircooled: It does. Being able to move weight can help tune out some inherent weaknesses in cars, which goes a long way to equalizing the cars.
I think you may want to expand on this for those that are less car tuner savvy.
dean1484 wrote: I was looking at the pick order on the GT cars and I don't mind picking first but if we are going by last season and the revers order was I that far back in the standings that I get to pick first? Or are we picking in order of finish from last season just for the first race?
I was going with the previous Sunday series standings, higher finishing picks first. It's opposite of the rest of the season (which is reverse of current standings), but gives a minor award to those finishing higher.
dean1484 wrote:e30Matt wrote: In reply to aircooled: It does. Being able to move weight can help tune out some inherent weaknesses in cars, which goes a long way to equalizing the cars.I think you may want to expand on this for those that are less car tuner savvy.
Sure. Adding ballast to the rear can help the FF and 4WD cars rotate more easily and reduce their tendency to understeer, especially at corner entry. Adding ballast to the front of MR cars can help stabilize them and make them less twitchy. One of the things to remember is that as you change the weight distribution of the car you also need to adjust your spring rates accordingly, stiffening the springs that are now carrying more load.
It's also good to remember that the chassis was designed with the stock weight distribution in mind and extreme changes from that can sometimes have an adverse effect on how the car drives even with suspension tuning. It's generally best to add weight and change the suspension settings incrementally as both will change the handling. For instance, adding weight to the rear of a 4WD car will make it rotate better, but so will raising the rear spring rate. Doing both together doubles down on the effect, and though each change affects the car in different parts of the corner they are still very intertwined. The larger the change or more things that are changed the harder it is to fine tune or isolate the effect of each.
In reply to e30Matt: I think the ease of tuning is because FR cars are the default sports/race cars that we drive in the game. I have rarely driven a MR car since joining you guys, and tuning the NSX wasn't that difficult, you just had to experiment more. I'm sure the FF cars are the same, just an inferior setup. 
Dean, a future series we can test during the Mid-season break is a Sports car series with the same general rules as your European GT/Modern Muscle Car series, so the Corvette, Viper, and M3 GTR have a series that suits them.
Mr_Clutch42 wrote: Dean, a future series we can test during the Mid-season break is a Sports car series with the same general rules as your European GT/Modern Muscle Car series, so the Corvette, Viper, and M3 GTR have a series that suits them.
It would be intresting to see how even the cars are with that tuning package. Hopfully we remember to test that. It would kind of remind me of the continental tire series or the non lmp cars in ALMS
My new headset arrived for the PS3 so I should make the Sunday testing. Meanwhile, I am completely pissed that I can't get my wheel to work with the new PS4 and Project CARS. Game looks amazing. PS4 is amazing. Just wish I could use it...
I was wondering if that wheel would work. You can try that hack I linked to in the Cars thread. I did not read through it but I believe it involves using a computer and to spoof the ps4 and some minor wiring to make a connector.
Yes, though, it's total BS. Hopefully there will be an easier fix by the time gt7 comes out in a few years
boy if you fall back and lose the draft in the mmR you are pretty much screwed!
I was surprised that the 3000GT was able to kind of sort of keep up in the tuner series. I added something like 50-60kg on the back bumper (total weight 1350kg) and bumped up the power to compensate and picked up nearly a second in intial testing. It can take turns ok because AWD and has decent pull on the straights. Not the fastest thing out there but mid pack.
Im going back to tweak the tune on my Supra SZR, same thing, add some ballast and power to try and speed it up. Also picked up a Celica Gt four to tinker with.
Basically just throwing my subaru tune at all these AWDs and adjusting the spring rate to the weight of the car, and tweaking from there.
Impreza Wagon is still the go-to, and the only reason I'd switch mid season is to just run something different.
Super fun in the Japanese cars. The mr2 is easily the most fun to drive, but seems to be slightly off pace. The 240sx and mk3 supra are incredible stable, yet are a bit slow on the straights. The integra was the fastest of the bunch for me, but not very fun to drive.
Decisions, decision.
In reply to failboat: In general, AWD helps with acceleration, especially with low speed corners. It hinders handling, especially transitions because of the added 50 or so kilos that the system weighs.
I was really surprised last night after testing 10-12 cars that they all were about the same. However I tested on sports soft and changing to SM made the cars that were a little loose a lot loose and the cars that were a lot loose were crazy loose so I may have to re test everything and see what is what. I can always fall back to the trusty FD but we just ran those so I am looking for another car. I think the NSX will be quick as well but it has nothing on the Corolla of Mudds he just walked me on the straits.
After more racing last night with the MMR that is going to be a great car. Things may get a little rough but they are very bump resistant so it should make for some great racing.
I am liking the Altezza alot but it is scary loose out of the box and seems to be a bit down on power. Not fun to drive but can be really fast.
Going to try some of these awd tips. My awd car doesnt rotate for crap. Reminded me why i play rwd cars.
In reply to dropstep: If you didn't know, remember to change one parameter at a time, ie. the rear toe, rear spring rate, etc. It makes it easier to know what part of the suspension is more important to get rotation (or another dynamic) how you want it.
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