I think I've seen folks here use rubber shift boots to seal bars like that to the chassis, rather than just a flap. Not sure how important better sealing is in a racecar though.
When we installed a 9-inch Ford rear end on our Mustang vintage racer, we added mounts for Shelby-style override traction bars. Now to mount the front of those bars to the chassis.
These brackets needed to be in line with the mounts on the rear end, while the traction bars, unlike some others, had to sit inside the cabin so that they pass through the sheet metal.
We tucked the front mounts in front of the wheel wells–basically where the back seat would have mounted. (On the left side of the car, we had to flatten some sheet metal a bit.)
To cut the necessary holes for the bars to pass through, we broke out the plasma cutter.
After test-fitting everything, we welded in reinforcement plates and mounted the traction bars. This needs to be done with the car on the ground and fuel weight simulated. We set these bars with just a bit of preload.
Once everything was mounted, we riveted rubber sheeting around the bars to limit water and dirt intrusion into the cockpit.
I think I've seen folks here use rubber shift boots to seal bars like that to the chassis, rather than just a flap. Not sure how important better sealing is in a racecar though.
What's that tear in the chassis?
Yeah....nope. I would install a 3 link or 4 link instead to get rid of the wheel hop(depending on if I were building for road course or drag strip). I definitely wouldn't cut into the interior like that for a band-aid for the problem.
In reply to Wicked93gs :
Basically we're following Shelby's playbook as that's how Shelby American did it back in the day.
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