d_balls
d_balls HalfDork
1/12/09 2:49 p.m.

A perennial favorite, I thought I would again offer my Caprice for sale.

$2008

Edit: Would also consider trades -- Truck, preferably compact/foreign/2wd/5spd. BG chassis w/ the DOHC, ZX2, other?

~150k miles

I need this process to be as quick and painless as possible, or I'll probably cry.

Here's the price: $2008.

Please contact via email: dbrande@gmail.com

Here's the list of stuff from the PO or me that was new or replaced (I forget what I bought it at, 130k maybe): Engine: Opti '96 coil w/conversion harness Radiator Dorman Balancer Magnecor Plug wires Meziere HD Electric Water Pump F-body EGR & new module & new vacuum lines PCV & PCV vacuum lines New Trans cooler lines BF412 PCV Breather Knock sensors LT-4 Knock Module Starter

Transmission: Carolina Performance Transmission Level 1 w/ 2200 rpm TC Tranny holds 1st when it's cold unless you lift. The 1-2 shift is pretty firm all the time, so it might be too much line pressure in the current PCM program.

Suspension: Power Performance Extreme duty front end kit (components painted silver to prevent rust) Extreme duty ball joints Buick Center Link Rustic Racing tubular front control arms (upper & lower dark blue) Global West Del-A-lums Global West front springs Impala SS rear springs New GM 5/8" ball joint spindles (painted silver) Bilstein Shocks All associated bolts, nuts, & bearings replaced as well. New driveshaft u-joints

Lee Manufacturing gear box New stock P/S pump Rustic Racing pressure side P/S cooler kit & return side hoses Borgenson steering shaft

Exhaust - cat back was painted with VHT Flame Proof exhaust paint (Blue). Connected using Walker band clamps. Tri-y headers Random Tech Converters (high flow 590cfm) Pypes X-pipe Walker 17749 mufflers Dynomax over axel pipes Stock style exhaust tips

Brakes - Rebuilt Stock calipers Russles SS 5 line kit PFC pads Auto Specialties Rotors ATE super blue fluid Front wheel speed sensors

Rear End No Limits kit w/eaton posi, 3.42 gears Yukon Axels

After I bought it I popped in an Auto-Meter liquid filled oil pressure gauge to confirm low oil pressure, pulled the motor and replaced it with a used LT1. Current motor runs strong and has ~15k miles (something like that) under its belt.

I replaced the header gaskets with Earl's and freshened the rear pads with Brutestops. I replaced the fan and indicator relays, so the blinkers work great. I also just flashed the PCM with a PCMForless program.

Problems:

The body is banged up. This car is probably not a great candidate for a clone, but good for a racer. There are two rust spots that I think are worth mention: one under the driver’s heel and the other at the bottom of the B-pillar between the front and back doors. But you never see them so out of sight out of mind for me.

Currently has a low RPM, part throttle stumble. Could be plugs (require removing the headers to replace, and I misplaced my home made, low profile wrench for getting all the header bolts), or a misc. leak somewhere. I'm slowly troubleshooting (tried fuel filter and injector o-rings thus far).

Extras: A set of Hawk HPS pads - front A full Fel-Pro gasket set. Set of new style Rustic Racing control arms (improved turning radius) Spare ABS reluctor, current one damaged. Any other small stuff I might have around

I think that's it. I think it's a good deal and should be plenty of fun. I've enjoyed it immensely. Cash only please, no checks, money orders, promises, trades, etc. Located in Reston, VA

Pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/dbrande/959C1

d_balls
d_balls HalfDork
1/12/09 7:04 p.m.

In reply to d_balls:

Edit: Now open to trades. Rust free (in the real sense, not New England "rust free") is really the biggest driver. I no longer have a covered workspace and air tools and a helper and and. . . Anyway, I can't manage broken fasteners.

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