i have the caveman class winner for sale now:

1983 porsche 944 with carb'd 355 chevy V8. comes with a set of 15x7 phone dials with 225/45 hoosier A6's, and a pair of 15x7 cookie cutters with hoosier 26x10 slicks. also comes with 2 16x7 and 2 16x8 mesh wheels wearing Azenis RT-215's in 205/55 that you could sell to fund replacing the weak starter, and when you pull it apart for detailing you can replace the clutch disc with one from a small-block mopar for $60.

$2000. you pick up in plymouth township MI. no, i won't take $1999.99 or less.

delivery no longer an option, as i sold my tow dolly.

$2008 Challenge build diary here

IIRC i finished 16th overall with this car in 2008. 13.96 at 98 in the drags with the clutch slipping in 3rd and 4th. 44.xxx in the autocross on a 40.3xx FTD with coolant overflow puking on left front tire thanks to thrown fan belt. didn't hurt engine and still runs great. didn't run long without belt, and thanks to the big brain of GVX19 we put a really short crank-to-water-pump belt on it for the drags.

really? no action at this price? what, are we in a recession or something?

If I had $2000 I would be up there right now.

This is an awesome car, someone save my marrige and buy this thing!

ALSO, and most importantly!!! The tach goes to 11!!!

Why you might ask??

Well, it's one faster, isn't it? It's not ten. You see, most blokes, you know, will be reving at ten. You're on ten here, all the way up, all the way up, all the way up, you're on ten on your tach. Where can you go from there? Where?

Nowhere

Exactly.

What we do is, if we need that extra push over the line, you know what we do?

Eleven. Exactly. One Faster.

I have seen Spinal Tap references in just about every car magazine ever...I remember at least three in GRM.

why is it that Spinal Tap relates so closely to automotive magazine writers?

I'm sooo full of envy.. I LOVE IT!!!

God, I want it!

Any interest in a trade for a good running 1990 honda accord?

..and you've have $9 to hop it up some...

Three Questions: (1) How much of the interior is in-place? (2) Do you have any pictures of the interior? (3) Less emissions ... how far from being street legal?

If someone needs it transported contact me.....don't let that stop you from picking this thing up.

DrBoost wrote: If someone needs it transported contact me.....don't let that stop you from picking this thing up.

Are you in the transport business or just helpful?

I've been coventing a Mazda in Chicago lately.

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/200x-classifieds/72-toyota-corona-deluxe-1-chicago/12942/page1/

914Driver wrote:

DrBoost wrote: If someone needs it transported contact me.....don't let that stop you from picking this thing up.

Are you in the transport business or just helpful? I've been coventing a Mazda in Chicago lately. http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/200x-classifieds/72-toyota-corona-deluxe-1-chicago/12942/page1/

Just being a nice guy. As long as it doesn't cost me anything, I'd be happy to help (not having worked much in the past 12 months makes me say that, sorry).

how hard is it to replace the clutch disc - is it a pull engine job?

are there headlights available

JimDaPuzzo wrote: Three Questions: (1) How much of the interior is in-place? (2) Do you have any pictures of the interior? (3) Less emissions ... how far from being street legal?

1: race bucket for driver only, door panel on pass door, dash pad and OE cluster with aftermarket gauges, and that's it.

2: aside from the kids (not included), interior looks exactly like this.

3: in MI, anything is street legal. there's no windshield wiper hardware and the headlight wiring is in place but i haven't got the headlight brackets made. i was converting to small rectangular fixed lights but ran out of time. H4-style connectors are soldered in and shrink-tubed, but headlights are still in a box in the garage.

patgizz wrote: how hard is it to replace the clutch disc - is it a pull engine job? are there headlights available

yeah, engine comes forward and then out the bottom, so have to pull front bumper, pull radiator, drop front bar, drop suspension crossmember, and drop engine mount crossmember -- leave the struts attached to the knuckles if you've got a helper, as it's pretty easy to do this way.

a man of your mad skillz could probably do the job in a day.

it uses a typical small-block MoPar clutch disc -- same spline as porsche (1" x 23 splines), correct hub offset, correct OD for SBC flywheel and pressure plate. pretty wacky, no?

i have the little rectangular headlight assemblies out of a mid-'90s grand prix, and the car is wired to accept them. i never made the brackets to mount them. i was gonna put the lows in the foglight holes and the highs in the headlight holes.

Xceler8x wrote: ..and you've have $9 to hop it up some...

you could also sell the mesh / azenis combo so you'd have more than just $9 to play with.

Your wife must be totally beauteous to offset your looks in thy progeny, my friend.

Nevermind the bear, Angry. I think you're mad sexy. You know, in that "Lab nerd gone right wing extremist" sort of way.

AngryCorvair wrote:

patgizz wrote: how hard is it to replace the clutch disc - is it a pull engine job? are there headlights available

yeah, engine comes forward and then out the bottom, so have to pull front bumper, pull radiator, drop front bar, drop suspension crossmember, and drop engine mount crossmember -- leave the struts attached to the knuckles if you've got a helper, as it's pretty easy to do this way. a man of your mad skillz could probably do the job in a day. it uses a typical small-block MoPar clutch disc -- same spline as porsche (1" x 23 splines), correct hub offset, correct OD for SBC flywheel and pressure plate. pretty wacky, no? i have the little rectangular headlight assemblies out of a mid-'90s grand prix, and the car is wired to accept them. i never made the brackets to mount them. i was gonna put the lows in the foglight holes and the highs in the headlight holes.

Wouldn't in be easier to drop the transmission and slide the torque tube back? I can have one of those transmissions out in less than 30 minutes. After that drop the exhaust, unbolt the shifter, and unbolt the torque tube from the bell housing. Slide the torque tube back far enough to get the bell housing out of there. Before you remove the bell housing, you need to extract the pin the TO bearing fork in place. It's got a threaded hole in it, so you can use a long bolt and a deepwell socket that's inner diameter is larger that the pin and it will pull right out. Once that's out, pull the bell housing off and you've got clutch access. It's really pretty damn easy once you learn the tricks.

16vCorey wrote:

AngryCorvair wrote:

patgizz wrote: how hard is it to replace the clutch disc - is it a pull engine job? are there headlights available

yeah, engine comes forward and then out the bottom, so have to pull front bumper, pull radiator, drop front bar, drop suspension crossmember, and drop engine mount crossmember -- leave the struts attached to the knuckles if you've got a helper, as it's pretty easy to do this way. a man of your mad skillz could probably do the job in a day. it uses a typical small-block MoPar clutch disc -- same spline as porsche (1" x 23 splines), correct hub offset, correct OD for SBC flywheel and pressure plate. pretty wacky, no? i have the little rectangular headlight assemblies out of a mid-'90s grand prix, and the car is wired to accept them. i never made the brackets to mount them. i was gonna put the lows in the foglight holes and the highs in the headlight holes.

Wouldn't in be easier to drop the transmission and slide the torque tube back? I can have one of those transmissions out in less than 30 minutes. After that drop the exhaust, unbolt the shifter, and unbolt the torque tube from the bell housing. Slide the torque tube back far enough to get the bell housing out of there. Before you remove the bell housing, you need to extract the pin the TO bearing fork in place. It's got a threaded hole in it, so you can use a long bolt and a deepwell socket that's inner diameter is larger that the pin and it will pull right out. Once that's out, pull the bell housing off and you've got clutch access. It's really pretty damn easy once you learn the tricks.

Hmmm, that would be a whole lot simpler as it wouldn't disturb any wiring or plumbing. and it's got a hydraulic throwout so there's no clutch fork pin thingie to deal with. corey, why don't you visit me the weekend of August 28th and put a clutch in it for me. detroit's not so far away. i'll feed and house you for the weekend, and buy you a bunch of beer.

Per Schroeder wrote: Your wife must be totally beauteous to offset your looks in thy progeny, my friend.

yes. yes she is. but i was a cute little girl back in the day, so they may have gotten some of it from me.

poopshovel wrote: Nevermind the bear, Angry. I think you're mad sexy. You know, in that "Lab nerd gone right wing extremist" sort of way.

that's exactly the look i was going for.

OK, back on topic. Somebody buy this thing! It's a friggin' steal at two grand and you know it.

Put a cluth in it and i bet it would sell

If we do the TR6 - 944 swap, do I have to come get it?