$200 sounds about right to me.
$200 sounds about right to me.
Cool. $200 sounds fair to me.
I need help to find FMV for the wheels. I bought it for $800( that include tires and wheels together), but the wheels have no brand name on them.
I cant make out the numbers, maybe pop them into search engines and see if a result leads anywhere. Don't forget to switch to images after you check web, sometimes that yields results that are missed by the web search.
They look an awful lot like the trmotorsports C2 wheels from the tire rack. New they are about 150 ish apiece depending on size. Tires are obviously more etc...
I posted this in the swap meet section. In case it doesn't sell is $130 a fair value for a fiberglass ss style 4th gen Camaro hood? If not what is reasonable?
I have it listed on Facebook for $200 and I am getting calls but no one has shown up yet with money.
depending on the scoop they start at $400 - ish new and yours looks like it cost roughly $615 new.
I would say your not bad on your price, $130 should move it. I didn't find any used hoods to check my feelings though.
Any other opinions?
1969 Chevy pickup, 307, doesn't run, mismatched heads, 3 speed with floor shifter, no brakes, flat tires, bent hood where a branch fell on it, more than 200,000 miles.
I waited until the cold set in so I wouldn't get bit or stung.
I need the group mind to help me decide a value.
In reply to Bent-Valve :
on the open market those trucks are hot, but as a Challenge starting point i'd say $250 is probably fair.
I paid $600 for a similar c20 with rotten floors, but it ran. I sold it for $300 with no engine after a flood
In reply to AngryCorvair :
I was cruising CL and didn't find one as rough, but the prices, yee gads!
If someone else seconds the $250 for a starting point I'll use that unless I get objections. (Edit -- $300?)
Motor needs serious love if its going to run again. It was open to the elements for a couple of years and may not be salvageable.
The frame / cab is rotted and will need serious reconstruction and reinforcement for intended use.
I'd pay 3-5 hundred for it. But closer to 3 so I'm good with 300.
The classic vehicle market is stupid.
We all know that it is smarter to buy a finished vehicle rather than restore your own
Go look at a finished truck.
Calculate what it would cost to make that truck as good as the restored one.
Subtract the cost of your restoration from the advertized cost of the driver and that should be the value of the project truck.
I guarantee that this will make the value of the unrestored truck a negative number.
In my mind, that should be a $0 value truck.
Pete
NOHOME said:The classic vehicle market is stupid.
We all know that it is smarter to buy a finished vehicle rather than restore your own
Go look at a finished truck.
Calculate what it would cost to make that truck as good as the restored one.
Subtract the cost of your restoration from the advertized cost of the driver and that should be the value of the project truck.
I guarantee that this will make the value of the unrestored truck a negative number.
In my mind, that should be a $0 value truck.
Pete
To be fair I'll go with $300. I can't guarantee it will wind up in the Challenge, but not everybody has a truck or whatever sitting in the back yard, wait, I just thought about the audience....
Still, $300 leaves me $1700 to try and put this on the road and in shape to compete. I have started shopping CL and autox truck websites for info / ideas to assist in the build.
In reply to Bent-Valve :
Crown Vic front suspension, Lincoln IRS out back and leave the patina and drivetrain design alone as much as possible. That should keep you on a Challenge budget and scratch the creative fabrication urge.
Pete
NOHOME said:In reply to Bent-Valve :
Crown Vic front suspension, Lincoln IRS out back and leave the patina and drivetrain design alone as much as possible. That should keep you on a Challenge budget and scratch the creative fabrication urge.
Pete
I like the ideas you put together, especially since I was wondering how to get better handling in a 1960's truck. I was hoping to throw a Claimer type engine kit in it and maybe find a cheap cam. Small block chevys are pretty easy to build and get parts for.
I was hoping to drive it, not trailer it. However, the DMV (I still think DMV should be a curse word) has other ideas. The title will have to be settled in Louisiana. It was my father in laws, the original owner, we have the death certificate etc. BUT NOOO, our DMV won't touch it.
Right now I have too much on my plate to worry about it. Its not going anywhere, not fast anyway... 
I need 5 opinions on a price.
69 307, unknown condition, doesn't spin. Has been sitting in the woods for 15 plus years and had died before that. I was cleaning it off when it occured to me I needed documentation.
Searching CL I see prices starting at $200 then dropping to $100 for a 307, others around $250 to $450 (dreamer, it had been in a fire)
Here is the first one that popped up:
I don't even know if I can use it at this point. I did pull it and most of it looks like it can be rebuilt, but it may be cracked, I haven't cleaned it enough to know yet. Lots of rust near around a rear freeze plug.
So can you GRM's give me a price?
Thanks.
Edit -- $150 would be my guess.
In reply to Bent-Valve (FS) :
I haven't checked core values in years, but $100-$150 seems reasonable.
Stuck I'd say $100. Turns free would be $150. Can fire it up for a few seconds $250.
In reply to Bent-Valve (FS) :
I'm good with $150
Stuck 307 = scrap imo, so $50-ish?
I got it on the stand and oiled the pistons. It's not stuck.
If everyone is ok with $150 that is what I'll put on the budget.
In reply to Bent-Valve (FS) :
I'm good with $150.
Since AngryCorvair is below that I'll count that as my 5 needed for budget.
Thanks!
Besides, I have been full steam ahead on the disassembly of it. I'm ready to start measureing, honing and putting back together.
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