echoechoecho said:walmart lawn battery U1R $20 with warranty about 10lbs and I havent found a car it wont start but its still a small battery so dont leave your lights/radio on.
The Challenge is in FL when it’s still warm. This is the answer- the lawn mower batteries work just fine (and avoid the added weight of the cables, cutoff switch, etc.
Plus, once it’s in your budget, you can always replace it with a fresh one when worn, at no additional hit to your budget.
84FSP said:Really dead batteries charge better when run in circuit off a good battery that is charging. I was really surprised that we brought back a dead one that way recently.
So is that in parallel? That would cut the current in 1/2 making a .75 to 1 amp charge. I may try build a .25 trickle charger.
Series would cut the voltage in 1/2 (ie 6 volts).
Maybe we start a test of franken-batteries and find a good way or set up that brings the dead back to life?
Zombie batteries?
SVreX said:Plus, once it’s in your budget, you can always replace it with a fresh one when worn, at no additional hit to your budget.
I wouldn't agree with your statement as you put it.
with identical or as-close-to-identical-as-possible parts without adding to or subtracting from their budgets
The identical or as close to identical part is important. Interesting to me is the without ... subtracting part. I hadn't noticed that before. So you budget $20 for a battery and it goes bad you throw in a $5 core battery. Looks like you don't save the $15.
In reply to Stampie :
I didn’t suggest that.
I’m saying that if a new lawnmower battery is included in the budget (full price) and goes bad, it can be removed and a new one put in the car. No budget hit- it’s already in there.
There IS a budget hit- it’s already there. But only once. You don’t have to keep putting new batteries in the budget over and over. The only parts that need to be I the budget are those in the car.
You are reading too deeply into the replacement parts rule.
In reply to SVreX :
No we agree you can replace without keep having to add the new cost and kept the old cost .I was just making sure people understood identical or near identical. For example the battery that came with my Q45 worked when bought. Nice old school Bosch battery. It's dead now. I can't replace it with a nice new 2lb lithium ion battery even though the cost of the two is near identical. I'd need to replace it with a standard size lead battery.
In reply to Stampie :
Ok, but that’s not what I said.
SVreX said:echoechoecho said:walmart lawn battery U1R $20 with warranty about 10lbs and I havent found a car it wont start but its still a small battery so dont leave your lights/radio on.
The Challenge is in FL when it’s still warm. This is the answer- the lawn mower batteries work just fine (and avoid the added weight of the cables, cutoff switch, etc.
Plus, once it’s in your budget, you can always replace it with a fresh one when worn, at no additional hit to your budget.
The point being, once the NEW LAWNMOWER BATTERY is in the budget, it could always be replaced with a fresh one when worn with no additional hit to the budget.
Lawnmower battery is the answer.
The OP needs to buy a battery. A fresh lawnmower battery will start his E28 just fine in FL in October, and will cost less than half any other battery he can buy. It will also give him a performance advantage. It does not have to be equal to anything.
The answer for your Q would be different.
Patrick said:Advance also has bulk 2 gauge cable for .99/ft.
is this a sale or coupon? My local advance has it for $2.50 per foot. Im relocating the battery on my boat and need a good price for 2gauge cable
When you bought the lawn mower battery were you charged a core charge ?
In reply to californiamilleghia :
yes $5, I think its the law for any lead acid battery. If I remember I gave them a powerwheels battery that I found.
Has anyone tried to rehab a small 12v battery out of a UPS computer back up power box ?
If so how many amps to get it to hold a charge ?
I wanted one as a backup for an alarm and also to power a radio in a box to use at the swap meet.
Thanks
californiamilleghia said:Has anyone tried to rehab a small 12v battery out of a UPS computer back up power box ?
If so how many amps to get it to hold a charge ?
I wanted one as a backup for an alarm and also to power a radio in a box to use at the swap meet.
Thanks
I was thinking about those too as I have a source of old UPS batteries. The contacts on those are very small spade contacts though, so I'd be a bit skeptical of trying to use that.
Ordered "Bassik" Power wire from KnuKonceptz. Got some bulk of both 0 and 4 gauge. 0 gauge ending up at less than $1/ft, and the 4 gauge is under 50 cents/ft.
I think I'm going to order two of these as cutoff switches. Rear or the car and driver access.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-1032
AWSX1686 said:Ordered "Bassik" Power wire from KnuKonceptz. Got some bulk of both 0 and 4 gauge. 0 gauge ending up at less than $1/ft, and the 4 gauge is under 50 cents/ft.
I think I'm going to order two of these as cutoff switches. Rear or the car and driver access.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-1032
the reason it was so cheap is because its aluminum wire (cladded with copper). Ampacity is not as great as copper but it should be fine with 0awg. good thing is its a lot lighter.
I used 2 awg welding cable sold at airgas for 1.88/ft for my boat battery relocation.
echoechoecho said:AWSX1686 said:Ordered "Bassik" Power wire from KnuKonceptz. Got some bulk of both 0 and 4 gauge. 0 gauge ending up at less than $1/ft, and the 4 gauge is under 50 cents/ft.
I think I'm going to order two of these as cutoff switches. Rear or the car and driver access.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-1032
the reason it was so cheap is because its aluminum wire (cladded with copper). Ampacity is not as great as copper but it should be fine with 0awg. good thing is its a lot lighter.
I used 2 awg welding cable sold at airgas for 1.88/ft for my boat battery relocation.
Right you are... I got the shipment next day as they are very fast on shipping. I think it will work fine for this purpose, but now that it arrived, I see that it's not the same stuff I have ordered in the past. It is the cheaper stuff. Still, for the price it's hard to beat.
I also got 100ft of 12 gauge speaker wire for $0.22/ft, I figure that'll be handy for fuel pumps or lighting or whatever else comes along.
Search "Police Cars" in the junkyard for "trunk mounted" batteries and big wiring for electronic equipment. I have pulled large gauge wiring from the trunk to engine. I see them in hemi dodge chargers at the Pull a Part. I paid less than $5.00.
Pep Boys currently has a Champion U1 battery with 350CCA for $34.99. it weighs about 14lb.
Mighty Max Viper VP-600 for $34.99 shipped on ebay. It's been cranking on my m42 swap for days and working great. I was concerned it wouldn't be up to the task, but that's completely unfounded so far.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
In reply to Stampie :
I read the rules, but am not clear on this point.
1. If I use the existing battery location and wiring, do I still need a kill switch of any kind, beyond the factory ignition switch?
2. If I use the existing battery location and wiring, but lay an AGM battery on it's side for space saving, do I need a kill switch of any kind, beyond the factory ignition?
Thanks!
CrustyRedXpress said:In reply to Stampie :
I read the rules, but am not clear on this point.
1. If I use the existing battery location and wiring, do I still need a kill switch of any kind, beyond the factory ignition switch?
2. If I use the existing battery location and wiring, but lay an AGM battery on it's side for space saving, do I need a kill switch of any kind, beyond the factory ignition?
Thanks!
If that is against any rule set that would be against the NHRA rules. But those are also based on ET in a lot of cases. Unless your CRX has something really special going on, I think you will be fine w/out kill switch.
In reply to Robbie :
I concur.
In reply to Robbie :
More short-bus special than fast-car special. No way this thing makes it out of 12 seconds, and I'll be dancing a jig if we're in the 13's.
This is what the NHRA general regulations say:
Master Cutoff-8:4 Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements.
I can't find Class Requirements anywhere, so I'm fabricating a metal tie down strap for a small AGM battery and calling it a day.
Thanks all!
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