buzzboy said:I always appreciate when a man doesn't stick a P where the P doesn't belong.
Super cool project and a very clean 1800S starting point.
I can send a certain mutual acquaintance of ours into fits and convulsions by simply typing one series of characters:
P1800SEES
In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
"P1800SEES"
I will have to adopt that term . People at car shows assume I am a Volvo fan. Not really, I just fell for the pretty skin of the 1800ES for my Hot Rod. The Volvo cult and its nuances was never a thing I bought into.
In reply to DIYCustoms :
We seem to travel the same roads at different times!
The current work I mention is a 68 B that needed both sills, the crossmember and both floors replaced. Done several of these over the years and your deconstructed Volvo floor reminded me of the current one I am doing.
Just wrapped up a 65 Healey 3000 and the first car I ever restored was a 61 Bugeye.
For the most part I follow your method of doing structural work on the ground with the car supported level on the suspension attachment points. This means that the shell wont want to deform as you cut it apart.
The Volvo was a bit different because by the time I got around to doing the sills, it already had an entire Miata chassis welded inside the perimeter of the Volvo sills, so I was not worried about anything moving and did the work on the rotisserie. That was a rare treat.
Supurb!
PREPPING FOR SURGERY!
Car is level all around and bracing installed
Will start and complete the drivers side 1st then continue to the other.
Removing the lead filler so I can cut out the damaged quarter panel and mig in the new one
These bodies were heavily leaded during assembly, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's original.
working on the panels and sills
Looking good so far.
In reply to DIYCustoms :
This is a BRILLIANT solution.
I'm totally stealing this concept when I get around to building my trans tunnel.
A Buick heart in a Volvo's skin? Please stop. I cannot be any more aroused!
Awesome work!
Two questions:
1-Is there room for a gas pedal in there or will the brake and clutch need to be shifted over to the left?
2- How is the clearance between the inboard part of the a-arm to cylinder head? That tends to be a deal breaker with the 90 degree V8 swaps.
In reply to NOHOME :
The pedals I will dog leg to the left 2" in the pedal arm not the mounting box. Motor & transmission clears everything else. Headers will be tricky to fab because I'm staying with the original a arms which take up space within the engine bay side
The upper control arms are the bane of V6/8 conversions in the 1800 and one reason why custom subframes are popular. Especially since the geometry isn't all that great either and could stand improvement...
Front suspension dropped down to get rebuilt and powder coated
easier to work on at eye level
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