Yeah, I don't think they'd be genuinely annoyed, just can be rather amusing to see some of the hairsplitting on restoration-oriented groups. Luckily most Mopar enthusiasts seem to be able to laugh at it even if they fall into the chalkmark resto group themselves.
Gave it some final touch-ups and now it's time to remove the masking.
It's not perfect, but it is a lot better than it was.
Itll be perfect once the engine is in. Trust me.
This week's work has consisted largely of cleaning up the floor where the car had previously been sitting and pushing the car back to where I can get the engine in place, but I also did a bit of work to fix an annoying shift linkage issue while the transmission is out of the car. I had been using a Lokar kickdown cable, and it turns out that with this setup, the kickdown lever hits the shift lever when shifting manually. Trying to give the car full throttle in first gear causes the shifter to go into second. So, let's get the kickdown lever off and get to work.
First, I bent the arm so it's closer to flat.
And the bolt that Lokar uses to attach their cable is a bit longer than it needs to be.
So I'll fix that too.
Put it back together and everything clears.
The engine is back in the engine compartment now!
Lowering it back in place was a team effort, so thanks to my co-workers Frank (forklift) and Carl and Randy (spotters / helped line everything up) for their assistance!
Getting the transmission in. It appears that the torque converter bolts are supposed to line up to a specific point on the flexplate, so I tagged them with spray paint before putting things together.
Had a bit more help from my co-workers supporting the transmission with jacks to get it bolted on. Finally got the transmission bellhousing tightened against the block.
Please tell me that "thunk" when tightening the bolts was the torque coverter slipping into its pilot hole.
That thunk when tightening the bolts was the torque converter going into the pilot.
Oh, if the torque converter wasn't seated properly in the transmission, it doesn't make any ugly noises when bolting the engine to it.
as Bane said, that comes later.
Matt, converter was definitely not seated back properly in the first picture of your last post.
I hope the clunk was it getting situated.
I have never had a clunk when putting an automatic back together. Hopefully it becomes nothing too distressful.
Greg
Uh-oh.
The main thing I had noticed was that the converter did look like it was far enough back when putting things together, but it was tricky getting the pilot hole aligned with the center of the crank.
How far back is the converter supposed to be from the bellhousing when correctly seated?
I loosened the bolts and got the engine and transmission apart far enough to spin the torque converter. No ominous grinding or jamming, but I'm going to need to get them further apart to actually re-seat the converter. Maybe if I put the engine and transmission together only with the long engine stand bolts, they'll be easier to get back together while being able to slide far enough apart...
What can sometimes be helpful....
Get some long bolts, and cut the heads off, thread those into the trans or bell housing, whatever end is threaded, you can then slide the trans onto those. I also tapper the ends to help get it all started. Of course once it's together, you then have to remove the alignment pins, and replace with bolts.
TED_fiestaHP said:What can sometimes be helpful....
Get some long bolts, and cut the heads off, thread those into the trans or bell housing, whatever end is threaded, you can then slide the trans onto those. I also tapper the ends to help get it all started. Of course once it's together, you then have to remove the alignment pins, and replace with bolts.
Good tip, I used to do that with some of my manual trans installs.
Works well.
Greg
TED_fiestaHP said:What can sometimes be helpful....
Get some long bolts, and cut the heads off, thread those into the trans or bell housing, whatever end is threaded, you can then slide the trans onto those. I also tapper the ends to help get it all started. Of course once it's together, you then have to remove the alignment pins, and replace with bolts.
Thanks, I'll try that if the long bolts I used on the engine stand aren't enough separation to check things over.
Used longer bolts to get the transmission to slide back far enough that I can access the torque converter... and it's stuck firmly in the transmission. Can't push it in further or pull it out; I must have press fitted the pump onto it! Looks like tomorrow's project will be to pull the transmission all the way out so I can get the right tools on the converter.
Transmission is back out.
Torque converter is still firmly wedged in. Will need to come up with a way to get it removed.
Billet wheel glimpse included for Dusterbd.
I have wood.
Thank you.
The torque converter came out with some careful use of two pry bars at a time. I don't see any visible damage to the torque converter snout or the transmission splines, and I was able to get the torque converter to slid in further (when holding a starter next to the transmission, it sure looks like it's fully engaged). Turning the converter does not produce any grinding or the like.
So - do I put this back together and hope for the best, or replace all or part of the pump while the transmission is out?
Id depends.
Do you feel lucky?
Considering the possible press fit, I think it would be safest to pull the pump just to verify. That being said, if it spins freely with no grindy noises....
I wonder how fast you'd have to spin the converter in order to power the pump? Might be able to spin it fast enough to get it to pump fluid through the cooler lines and ensure that its working? Any way to hook the starter up to the bellhousing and use that to spin the converter?
Dusterbd13-michael said:Id depends.
Do you feel lucky?
Would rather feel certain than lucky.
That pump is coming out for a more thorough check.
The procedure to remove the pump looks easy enough. Tighten kickdown band (this can be done from outside the transmission), unbolt pump, thread bolts into two holes, and use a slide hammer to pull the bolts.
Unfortunately, this got as far as the last step, but the slide hammer I have on hand doesn't have a good way to attach to the bolts...
Bolts are too widely spaced for a steering wheel/damper pulley puller?
Square tube or L-channel for a bracket?
That might work - drill some holes in a square tube, pull with both bolts at once with the slide hammer.
Thanks to Mr_Asa's suggestion, I have built an Improvised Extraction Device.
I call it that to remind myself it may blow up on me if I'm not careful, like other devices with similar initials.
The bolts on the side are too short to get it on the transmission as the input shaft is in the way. So I'll grab a longer set and get back to this next week.
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