It runs!
I'll see if I can get a video up. The engine starts up and idles, and I've set the timing and valve lash. Will see if I can get it on the street for a shakedown run, and check if it's leaking oil (hard to tell with it parked since I spilled a lot checking valve lash and filling the transmission).
Awesome!!!!
Finally, first drive on the rebuilt engine!
It needs a lot of work on the cold start and warmup portions of the tune (and a bit of work elsewhere too). There are a few systems not working such as the wipers and speedometer. The sway bar mounts scraped on a bump - you can hear it in the video. I need to connect the gauges fully. And there seems to be a tiny oil leak - a few drips from the middle of the engine, somehow, if I'm not mistaken.
But the engine runs, the transmission shifts as it should, there are no ominous noises, it doesn't overheat, and it doesn't leave a trail of fluids behind it. So I can now just move on to dealing with a bunch of little issues on a running car, instead of dealing wiht a non running car. I'm excited to be making progress.
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Sweet! Congrats on getting it running
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Congrats that's a huge milestone! And I literally lol'ed when I heard that THUNK of the sway bar. Drive it down to ATL sometime.
With your current tune, it could 100% pass as an authentic carbureted car! :-) Great progress! I want to hear that thing spool up next...
In reply to flat4_5spd :
Bah! One of the things I like about my lone remaining carbureted car is that it generally runs with just a bump of the starter. EFI is awesome for a lot of things but you can't beat a distributor and a fog of fuel mixture in the intake manifold for rapid starts.
The billets and exhaust note are fantabulous
Sweet!
Let's see if a blob of RTV can stop the oil leak. The belt rubbing on the hose is a bit of a bigger problem...
There was another puddle of oil under the car from last week's idle tuning session. I suspect it's leaking from the oil pressure relief valve. So I pulled the cap off the valve, cleaned it, slathered it with RTV, and installed it with a fresh gasket. We'll see if it's fixed when the RTV cures.
I also took a look at why the windshield wipers weren't working. Turns out I had previously put the dash in hastily and skipped connecting the wiper and light switches. So that was a pretty easy fix... for underdash wiring, at least, which is always a bit of a pain.
Sorry, neither one is easy to photograph, so no pictures this time, but there is some real progress going on. Next on the to-do list is more tuning work and cleaning up the interior. Also need to get the replacement speedometer swapped in and fix the fuel gauge.
So, I was poking around under the hood, and... the Holley fuel pressure regulator is leaking. Again.
The leak is coming from a pipe plug underneath the regulator that would normally be used for a gauge port.
I'll try the easiest fix first: Lots of more aggressive sealant.
I'll let it cure and see if that fixes it. It worked for another leaking port on the regulator. So I've changed them all over to fuel-safe RTV now.
I would have chosen a different FPR.....
I like a larger diaphragm.
It's about the same size as the Bosch regulator I previously had (until it started leaking) and easier to take apart. If it leaks again, though, it's getting changed out. This was one I chose mostly on price, although I didn't quite want to cheap out so far as to go and get a Chinesium clone of an Aeromotive. Although right now I'm rethinking that.
I can't recall ever having to replace a Bosch.
Not sure how they hold up nowdays.
So glad you got rid of the blow through setup, I want to turn and run every time I see one.
I think I have a regulator like that too... But's a Carb pressure one, not EFI, so less pressure, It's either a summit Racing or a Holley. Never had any trouble with it, but I have seen others with the leaker version of that, and its not fun.
I have been doing some work tuning it, but that doesn't make good pictures. It may make a good video; I still need to get that together. But I need to do something about the front end. A missing grille showing a huge intercooler may look mean, but it doesn't look polished - and a lot of racing events require a grille for street classes. The grille almost fits. So, time to work up the courage to cut up a part that's hard to find replacements for if I do serious damage. Luckily, the only part that hits is the steel rail at the lower edge. I start by cutting that back...
And bending it into place.
Cleaning up the sharp edges and cracks...
Put it in place, and you can't see the horrible metalwork.
And this is the point where I realize I've lost the screws that held the grille in place, and the things in my bolts drawer don't seem to be the right size. Finally I found they're #10 sheet metal screws.
Yeah! The front end is back together!
Now, before I take it on any extended drives, I need to replace that lower radiator hose. And I'm also going to add a IAC valve to help with cold starts. Both are on order from Rockauto.
So, I found out that using a generic flex hose, much as I hate them, was the best way to deal with the radiator hose rubbing against the belt. Especially since the water pump inlet is one size smaller than the radiator outlet. Turns out it's a lot easier to use a hose with different size ends than to force a too-small hose onto the radiator when there's not much room to work in already.
I wanted to take the car on an extended road test, but my wife mentioned she'd noticed something alarming - no brake lights. The rear turn signals, which use the same bulb, work fine. I found a blown fuse and thought the problem was solved... nope. It solved my no tail lights problem, but still no brake lights.
Looks like the next step is to replace the turn signal switch.
The steering wheel is coming off in slightly more pieces than intended. It appears to be a Bakelite type material, which is cracked, over an intact metal core. Pondering whether to glue back together or find an aftermarket replacement.
I'm leaning towards gluing it back together, but might swap to a different wheel if I can find the right one.
All of the '62- 66 A Body MoPar Steering Wheels are the same I believe - just with Different Horn Rings.
I bet you can find on that someone will sell on ForABodiesOnly that is reddish like yours with less Decay to it.
I have a maroon Column but it has no steering Wheel on it.
Greg
Thanks, I did not know they kept the wheel in production that long. I hadn't expected to be able to find a decent used one and was considering a Grant wheel instead. Not quite the right look, but probably better ergonomics.
Also, it appears the plastic itself is black, although I can't tell if the color is painted on or some sort of dye that soaks in.
Of course There are lots of non stock options.
I believe all of those wheels are black and were painted like the steering column at the factory.
Greg
10" Grant GT steering wheel. So period, so correct. Hard to steer the car with it but you will still look cool trying to.
I was considering the 15" version of that wheel. I deleted the power steering, so I would prefer more leverage.
Looked over the FABO classifieds to see what decent stock steering wheels are going for and how often they pop up. Looks like it's either Grant or glue for me.
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