6lb sledge and oak 
6lb sledge and oak
If you're not interested in using heat like myself and that other fellow mentioned, at least soak it real well before you get medieval with hammers and wood. No reason to break a piston out of impatience.
5-6 zip ties on either end of the 2X4 will help keep them from breaking.
The main thing is to make sure you're really committing to your hammer blows. Wood absorbs a LOT of energy, and you need to really drive down through the wood.
Also, it might help to set the engine back onto the ground to minimize energy loss through the stand.
I'll be in Magnolia Thursday with some free time if you would like some help. If I can't drive it out with a hammer, you're probably screwed. LOL
Heat will come. The pace of today wasn't quite conducive to moving it outside and lighting it on fire. Right now the 2x4's are acting as a fuse of sorts keeping me from breaking anything important. More tricks up my sleeve, lots of them out there by you guys. It's still early in the fight.
Just FYI on the frame painting. For the deck on my F550 rollback I pressure washed, then scuffed and degreased. I painted it with rustoleum gloss black implement paint, but I thinned it about 15%-20% with acetone and sprayed it through a cheap HF HVLP spray gun....I didn't have any issues with it hardening in a few hours using acetone. Rollbacks take a beating, so the ease of touch up with that was important since I can use a spray can on the small spots.
Late last spring Deucekid#2 decided that the Xbox wasn't cutting it and he wanted a gaming computer. I let him know that I wanted a Lamborghini and since we both had about the same amount of money we were both equally likely to get what we wanted.
After a bit more talking I mentioned that he could get a lot more computer by buying components and assembling one.
He says "Dad I don't know how to build a computer."
I say "Why should that stop you?"
His birthday was over the summer and he asked for money. I was more generous that I typically would be because my generosity came with strings. If he used the money to buy parts instead of a whole computer, I would double the gift.
It took him a while to do the research and get his ducks in a row, but he's screwing the heat sink down to the CPU on the motherboard right now. 
And in Deuceland, that's how we roll.
In reply to mazdeuce: And that, sir, is the way to do that!
Bravo!
In reply to mazdeuce:
Right on. Good on you for passing those skillsets on.
Knowing where to find information is just as valuable as actually knowing information. Building a PC is a great way to learn that.
In reply to mazdeuce:
That's awesome!! I still remember building my first computer, at a lot older age, but it was pre-google..... I learned a lot that weekend, mainly by doing it wrong the first time.
Awesome! I had my parents basement full of junk computer stuff I would get for free or really cheap. To built stuff out of. Good times!
Eeeeeeek. Get him to google-tube some lessons on ESD mitigation.
Sorry, I build electronics for a living, so I get all squeemish when I think there's static
-Hans
In reply to mazdeuce:
That's definitely the way to do it, but I must say that a blanket isn't the best work surface for handling static electricity sensitive electronics.
Triple yeeks on the blanket build table. In car parlance, it would be like smoking while cutting a fuel tank open with a torch.
We have a long family history of inappropriate work surfaces. This is his "working on my back in the dirt" moment. I passed the info along, he's learning. 
Ok, so I guess I've lurked long enough to share a bit....First off....YOU ROCK!!! I get to live vicariously through everything you do!!! It is AWESOME!!!
Suggestion on the paint....I've had really good results with farm implement paint, both rattle and brush. Goes on smooth, and self levels with little to no streaking. And it covers and sticks to everything. I've used it on boats, motorcycles, and even fresh fiberglass with VERY LITTLE scuffing ( I was really tired and just wanted the project done on that one) Never had any issue with it coming off after pretty good abuse.
FWIW, chalk up another tally mark in the POR15 camp for me. After knocking the chunks off (ok, not chunks really, but surface rust scale or flakes) the Mustang's frame with a wire wheel, brushing on the POR15 went easily enough. Leveled out nice and glossy without brush marks. Just be ready to wear it for awhile if you get any on you and are too committed to finishing the coat to wipe it off.
Perhaps one of the better testaments to the POR15's durability is on the battery tray. Where previous attempts to keep regular paint on the tray failed (peeled off in suspiciously little time), the POR15 hasn't budged in 15 years. It's even hard enough to not show scuffing even after repeated battery swaps.
Oddly enough, Eastwood figured out I'd be commenting on your frame paint choice yesterday morning, and sent me this link about Rust Encapsulator vs Rust Converter to share. By the looks of things, POR15 falls in the "encapsulator" family. From your pictures it doesn't look like you're facing much more than surface rust, so it would work well.
...and if your fondness for two-tone color schemes extends to the rails, I'm fairly certain I've seen tintable top-coat POR15 at the Wesco down the road, or at least a few colors beyond just black or silver.
Good luck channeling your inner Bob Ross when the time comes!
In reply to mikedd969:
He's certainly learning. So far he's learned that he didn't pay attention to the output of his video card and the input of his much older monitor. I laughed. He did not find it funny. Wait until he starts fixing plumbing some day.
In reply to corybrown50:
I've also had good luck with implement paint for small projects in the past, and I appreciate your endorsement.
Thanks for joining up. Hopefully this is entertaining and I clearly need all the advice I can get.
In reply to 19Mustang70:
My biggest concern with POR-15 is topcoating it. Word is that it needs to be top coated when still tacky to get anything to stick to it. The rails are 9 inch C channel 17 feet long with all of the associate riveted on brackets that go with a truck this size. I can't figure out how I could get the POR-15 on AND the top coat on a reasonable time frame.
I do like your two tone idea. I'm considering painting the insides of the frame rails a light gray. All of the electrical and hydraulic bits run down the insides of the frame and it would be nice to be able to see them. I'm probably over thing it.
The por15 stays tacky for a couple of hours on my experience. So, i would break it into 4 foot sections, inner and outer. Do 4 feet of the outside, topcoat. Do the next 4 outside. Then, when all outside is done, tape off, move to inside. The light grey insides are genius. Im shocked by how much nicer undercar work is on the white underside of the challenge car.
FWIW I top coated the POR15 I used on my trailer randomly days to weeks later. I used spray bombs. Seemed to bind fine, but maybe not ideal?
I also have one I didn't top coat the under side of. It still looks great. When I was looking into it, it seemed the paint would get a bit chalky, but not really break down, it was a visual thing.
Por-15 does have a UV stabilized product available as well. It's available in colors too. I painted the engine bay of my Opel Kadett coupe with it in white.
Cost wise it's a lot more expensive than a quart of rustoleum. I find that thinned a little and sprayed on with the quart paint you get the finish of a rattle can but the color consistency of a brush or roller.
Speaking of rollers, would the truck frame be a good place to practice your technique for a future roller paint job on the body?
I used Rust Bullet on the mower deck and liked it. Seems very similar to POR, does not need topcoat.
I've had good luck with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I've used it under paint on car floors and exposed on car trailers.
I just picked up a quart of POR to do the trunk of the Healey:
As I don't ever use the stuff for outer panels, I dont worry too much about the UV issue. In this case, I will rattlecan some red over the POR so it matches the rest of the mis-matched paint.
I like the stuff but realize its limitations when it comes to clean metal: it wont stick. Wont stick to epoxy primer either.
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