1967 International COE, Small Adventure

mazdeuce said:

In reply to Wall-e:

I think I'm going to use the Eastwood sprayers. 

Popped off the rubber seal and.... that's not good.

I pulled it all apart. Do these guts look like anything in particular? It's a 1 1/12 inch bore. The cylinder itself feels ok (and should hone out) but the piston is pitted.

 

Mainly I'm here to point out how much I like this photo.  Looks like you managed to set it down somewhere that was getting sun while the background was in shade.  This similar to adding in flash or using a reflector... I'll have to look at the exit data later... but getting close to the part and the lighting helped the camera choose a "wide" (or small number) aperture which put the background out of focus further broadening the separation and drawing attention to the part.

This was a nice development?  

Im in for  shirt!  XL please!

Where to send monies....?

In reply to sleepyhead: 

You'll be happy to know that was on purpose.  I shot four pictures from the other direction before realizing what I was doing and turning the whole thing around in the sun. There are still times I wish I had some artificial lighting and I do need to buck up and get a better lens, but I think my percentage of good/bad picture is going up, even if it's still in the single digits.  

In reply to stuart in mn: 

You win 100 internet points for figuring out something that I couldn't even figure out with the proper words in front of me. 

Depending on the shirt sizing, 2xl tall or 3xl tall for me.

I'll pay all the costs for several.  (at least 1 grey, 1 black, 1 dark blue). 

Hurricane and holiday weekend out of the way and we're back to school runs and orthodontist appointments and grocery shopping. Seriously cuts into my Ferdinand time.  

I have a brake bleeder bottle with a magnet on it that I got from Pegasus (I think) a couple of years ago that is one of my favorite tools. Everyone should have one, they're amazing. If, like me, you forget yours in the community parts bin after One Lap, a quick quick trip to the store for tubing and a squeezy bottle makes an acceptable substitute.  It took me a few minutes to get a feel for unclogging the bleeders and getting them cracked just right, but when I did I was greeted with fluid old enough shave and the consistency and color of a dessert topping. I bought a second squeeze bottle because filling the reservoir on this sucks. You have to use a tiny funnel with a regular bottle, but because the funnel covers the hole you can't see how much fluid you have in until it overflows. The squeezy bottle works much better.I know you're only supposed to dispense brake fluid out of the origional container, and we should all follow this rule, but you have to refill the reservoir about every three ounces to avoid sucking air and I put a whole 32 ounce bottle of fluid through the system and still didn't get to the last two bleed screws in back. 

So now I'm pushing clean fluid through (most) of the brake system. Things are even more fixed than yesterday. I was so optimistic that I jacked up the right front tire and got it spinning as fast as I could with my hands, mashed the brake pedal and.......it kept spinning. Crap. 

That last sentence made me laugh, you will get it, I am sure! 

And yes those reservoirs suck! 

I'm in for a large TTWO shirt! I'd be more than happy to paypal a few bucks.

mazdeuce said:

In reply to sleepyhead: 

You'll be happy to know that was on purpose. 

 I shot four pictures from the other direction before realizing what I was doing and turning the whole thing around in the sun. There are still times I wish I had some artificial lighting and I do need to buck up and get a better lens, but I think my percentage of good/bad picture is going up, even if it's still in the single digits.  

!Yay!  I figured as much.
This one actually had me thinking about lighting a bit.

Usually people would suggest getting some kind of "off camera flash"... but, at least for now, most of your photos are close in to the point where some kind of small "constant light source"... preferably one with a magnet on the back... would fit you better.  Then it does dual duty: work light, and pics highlighting.  No recommendations from me about ones to buy... potentially rolling your own with LED strip lights and the assistance of one of the Deuclings could thread the usual compromise needle?

Quick question. The rim and tire are held on by the outer bolts. The wheel center is on the drum with the inner bolts. Is the big huge nut in the center just a dust cap? Does it need to come off if I pull the whole wheel center? I'm going to at least pull the drum and see if I can get things wiggling in there.  Also, torques? Not that I'll be driving this anywhere soon, but a ballpark for how this is supposed to go together would be nice. 

Dial up YouTube to see videos on how to assemble and disassemble those wheels. TIA will have the rim wheel info although they don't train for those anymore.

mazdeuce said:

 

In reply to stuart in mn: 

You win 100 internet points for figuring out something that I couldn't even figure out with the proper words in front of me. 

An obscure trivia item:  The Ala Kart 1929 Ford pickup designed by George Barris and originally owned by Richard Peters (which won the America's Most Beautiful Roadster award in 1958 and 1959) has a Mico brake lock on its dashboard.  I read a story about its restoration in The Rodder's Journal magazine a few years back, and during its restoration they were still able to get parts for it from Mico, so if that part of the project needs fixing you may want to contact them.

I am in for a T-shirt. Size L for me. I would be happy to PayPal some $ to offset the cost too. I love reading your build threads. Having a shirt as a memento of the awesomeness will be so cool!

Did you watch the Roadkill episode where they first work on Stubby Bob? The ogre of a man thats sells them the truck changes the tires on the split rims with some sort of Nordic plundering impliment. 

https://www.youtube.com/embed/Bqwok5-ehbA?start=660

Those are Dayton style wheels, but I'm not sure they're split rims after looking at the picture.  Do you know the tire size and if they're tubeless or tubed? 

The big cast spider in the middle is the actual hub and the wheel bearings are inside it under the center dust cover. The drum just has a hole in the middle and bolts to the back of it. Essentially its like any hub that a drum slips over, except the drum is bolted to the back side. Assuming the drums don't catch on the shoes you can just pull the dust cap, remove the retaining nut(s) and outer bearing, then the hub, wheel, tire, and drum should all just slide off the spindle.

Time to get the motorcycle jack out again. After you jack the end of the axle up and put it on a jack stand you can use the motorcycle jack for the wheel assembly.

The rear will come apart the same way except for pulling the axle shaft instead of removing a dust cap. I'd recommend only doing one axle shaft at a time, though, to prevent the spider gears moving in the carrier and falling out of place. You can just slip the shaft back in place without putting the whole hub on.

In reply to oldopelguy: 

Thanks. That's kind of what I figured out from the internet but the way you explained it was better. Now I need to figure out what size that center dust cap is. I know I don't have anything that big that's not a pipe wrench.   

Sometimes I ask questions after I do a search for them. First hand knowledge passed through board members is always better than a Google answer. 

mazdeuce said:

In reply to oldopelguy: 

Sometimes I ask questions after I do a search for them. First hand knowledge passed through board members is always better than a Google answer. 

QFT

also, I'm interested in an XL... gotta keep my ELM shirt collection current.  

Shouldn't Ferdinand be smelling the coffee and wrenches? Coffees and wrench?

after months of lurking I had to sign on and gush like a teen age girl, you make this both entertaining and educational, it's been a long time since I sat through so many interesting builds and repair journals.

Now, those are very DANGEROUSE wheels, they ARE split rims, and even when brand new, were known to come apart days, even month's after having new tires or tubes installed. In the 80's a fellow got cut in half by a ring that came undone just as he bent over it laying flat on the floor (not in a cage). a couple years later there was a report from the Twin Cities of a 1st grade girl being killed by the ring as she walked past a school bus in a loading zone.

you can see the open joint in the ring just below the lug nut at the bottom of the above picture, and you can see the parting line all the way around the wheel just out side of the retaining clamps. the retaining clamps DO NOT retain the ring when mounted.

DO EVERYONE YOU LOVE a favor and find hubs and wheels from a newer IH, that are tubeless and one piece.

Peace, Love, and Happy Motoring.

Can I bandwagon on for a shirt in L?

Its comforting to know that even if I take break for a few days from GRM, and the layout design goes to poo, you keep motoring along. 

In reply to OldDave: 

So I met a guy on One Lap this year. We walked tracks together and talked and near the end of the week he says "you are exactly how you write".  This has me thinking that you guys are sitting at home guessing that I'm looking at those split rims saying to myself "I bet I could change tires on those, how hard could it be?"  

And you're right. 

However, being alive is one of my favorite things, so I'm not going to. Demountable 22.5 Dayton tubeless wheels are $75 new and even cheaper used. Factor in tracking down an old guy with a cage who can safely mount tires on the splits and I'm ahead. I will eventually let the air out and take them apart just for fun, but I won't air them back up.  

The threat of imminent death makes a fantastic introductory post by the way.  Let me know your t-shirt size and I'll add you to the list. 

Loving the shirt logo, shame I'm so far away as would have liked one. Shipping to the UK would be to much i expect. 

Keep up the good work.

In reply to Gentabout:

Tell you what, give me your size and I'll make you a shirt. If shipping ends up silly, I have a plan. My sister lives in Belgium and I'll see her at Christmas. I'll pass her the shirt and your address, she'll act as an international t-shirt mule, and mail it to you from Ghent. What could to wrong? 

Lurked my way through the R63, the Grosh, and now this. I finally signed up for an account because I desperately want a Ferdinand shirt in XXL. Let me pay you a more fair price! I have nothing to offer in advice for taking Ferdinand whatever direction you go, but I love your writing, I love the content you put out. A crappy Walt-Mart shirt costs $10. Let me pay you $20. I know commercializing your work is a dangerous path to go down, but I don't think you’re going to get rich (or even break-even) by selling a couple T-shirts to gear heads. Making the T-shirts worth your while would make me, and I would guess some others,  happy that we supported you. Please give me a payment option. Finally, this is an interesting rabbit hole to go down:

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/forums/72-Japanese-Heavy-Truck-Mitsubishi-and-Isuzu

Not related to the part of the project you are currently on, but excellent nerd candy for all the wonderful things and systems you can bolt onto that frame.

mazdeuce said:

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Based on perspective, how big would that flower be IRL? 

Asking for research purposes.