The tapered fit is more forgiving than you think as there is a bit of crush going on to seal it.
I use a countersink tool in the drill to deburr the inside of the tube when I cut it. Square ends with no burrs go a long way to make this work out.
The tapered fit is more forgiving than you think as there is a bit of crush going on to seal it.
I use a countersink tool in the drill to deburr the inside of the tube when I cut it. Square ends with no burrs go a long way to make this work out.
I was experimenting with a drill bit bigger than the tube just spinning it by hand to debur and it helped a lot. I'm six flares in. I think after a couple dozen I'll be there. Thanks for the support guys.
I just have to say, with all of the discussions going on with the R63, it's really nice to be able to sit down and contemplate whether the $6.16 brake lines will be any better than the $4.56 brake lines on Fergus.
Thank god for old American iron.
Petrolburner wrote: Cheap and simple are sometimes redeeming qualities for being cheap and simple.
I've been trying to convince my GF that being cheap and simple are redeeming qualities.
She's not buying it...
Making a 'matching' brake line on the ground was easy. Easy-ish anyway. Snaking it in there and completing the last few bends was not as easy. I'm not 100% happy with this end. It'll work, but I'll re-do it the next time I take everything apart.
When possible, consume excess length by looping horizontally rather than vertically to make it less likely to trap air.
Would actual drum brake tools make me hate assembling drum brakes any less? The first one is always the worst, but holy hell I hate wrestling those springs.
Yeah, you really need the funky looking pliers multitool and a hold down tool. You're asking for misery without them.
Yes, get the tools. Aside from ease of installation, using improvised tools can score the springs and cause them to fail.
The last drums I did were probably on a dirt bike. Turns out the springs on Fergus are stronger than that. I will get the tools.
Had to drop Deucekid#1 at school before 6:00am for marching band. Still dark out when I got home so I cut, flared, bent, and installed the drivers side. I'll probably re-do this one as well. I'm keeping all the old hard lines for templates for the next go around. I need to order some fittings for the master cylinder. My parts store didn't have them. I think the plan is to block the rear circuit at the distribution block with a plug and run the new line for the rear once the lift is in. Front brakes will let me move the car around safely.
Did I mention that I now have all the tools to install a hydraulic handbrake? I have to run a new line anyway.......
AngryCorvair wrote:mazdeuce wrote: Front brakes will let me do berkeleying sick burnouts!
mazdeuce wrote: Did I mention that I now have all the tools to install a hydraulic handbrake? I have to run a new line anyway.......
We need to see both these things happen, and happen harrrrrd!
In reply to mazdeuce:
If you do a ebrake, it will be a pass through and I would suggest putting a bleeder on the brake as it will likely be a little mountain top in the rear brake system. Air loves to get trapped there and I have fixed more than a few of these systems by putting one there. They make banjo bolts with them and this is what I have used.
You can make one using a wilwood master that has a threaded fitting for the reservoir.
It took trips to three parts stores to find one that actually had brake fittings. When did parts stores stop selling parts?
It's entirely possible that they had them, they just had no clue WTF you were talking about. Unless I'm going to NAPA or the speed shop. I always bring part numbers for stuff like this, not the specs, the part number on the box (look it up on their site). Seems a lot of O'Vancezone employees don't know anything about threads and whatnot, or really any of the universal fitment parts they stock.
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