1972 Triumph TR6 looking for a purpose

Here's the blank canvas.

I bought this as someone else's project that had been sitting for 20 years. It's a mostly rust-free shell with a frame in very good shape. Currently, the shell is not sitting on the frame. The panel fit is good except for the driver's side door. The rear gap opens up pretty wide at the top. Until I get the shell onto the frame, it's hard to say how much of a problem this will be. Here's the only real rust on the body. No rust through, just a crusty surface.

Most of the shell (the green parts) is actually from a 1976 car that had been hit in the front right side. A front valence from a 1972 car replaced the mangled original. This was done well, but the initial accident repair was not. I had to cut the lower extension loose from the inner fender panel to make the valence match the fender.

I have the original engine that (according to the title and odometer) has 38,000 miles on it. From the condition of the cam and cylinder walls, I'd say this is correct. There's also a late 4-speed gearbox and diff that *should* be in good shape. A hard-top shell and liner came with the car. Also, the car was originally fitted with the dealer-installed A/C. I have two new compressors (damn heavy) and all of the under dash pieces and condenser.

So what should I do with this car? I already have a restored, lightly modded TR6 that is too nice to drive in anger. I also co-drive a fuel injected dedicated autocross car. So a fast, streetable car might be good. Maybe just to have fun at SCCA events, I was considering making it an FSP car. Most of the mods would be bolt-on, and I could always drop in a hotter engine (or swap) later. In any case, here's the next step to reunite body and frame.

I would say to make it a FSP car for track days, hillclimbs, and street use.

what ever you make it, just make sure it lives

The gold standard in unconventional things to do to your TR6 that are completely awesome:

The rest of the info

It's a lot like my MkII Sprite in that there's nice solid tub and lots of parts, but it's not starting as a perfect, unmolested example. This gives you license to do whatever you want without having to answer to The Authenticity Police. In my case I wanted to do "Clean, tidy, minimalist British hot rod that's a quick, not uncomfortable sunny day car, but with no track aspiration". So at the odd show I'll take it to, maybe someone will say "Where's the heater/wipers/bumpers/948cc motor/drum brakes/4" wide steel wheels"?

The same day 40 people will say "what a cool little car! Awesome color, is that original? Look at the size of that carburetor!"

I'd suggest if you're keeping it to strip the whole tub to bare, coat it in epoxy etch primer, seal seal it, get it really straight, then figure out what's next. Like sanding all the floors in a house before you move in it'll never be easier.

The really crazy thing I wanted to do was this...

But now I'm thinking something like this...

I dropped the idea of an engine swap for now. If I do one, it will be an inline 6. I love the S52, but the later aluminum 3 liter motor (M54B30) would be somewhat lighter. That S52 swap does make my pants feel funny, though.

The wagon really got me going!

Thing with TR6s is that they really are floppy chassied things; the frame has the torsional rigidity of an area rug.

Not gettin' too crazy, I'd like an old school SBF... carb, cam, headers. Around 350 ponies oughta do it. T-5 to keep the cost down. Build a good road car. 5.0's make some good noises.

I still wanna build one.

I'd do a Duratec (or Zetec) with NC Miata (or XR4ti Type 9) 5 speed. Fuel injection with maybe a low key turbo to make things interesting. Megasquirt for anything from 87 octane to E100 ethanol if you do the turbo.

How do TR6s look with Brooklyns or other smaller windscreens?

Come on Joe, scratch that V8 itch that you and Ed have been having, introduce that chassis to our friend Ellis, Ellis Juan.

I also know a good cheap way to get 15" bias ply racing tires

Then, make it a shooting brake as well, for all the WINS!

There is a guy that I see from time to time on my way to work who drives a dark green TR6 with black steel wheels and fat tires that looks soo right.

motomoron wrote: I'd suggest if you're keeping it to strip the whole tub to bare, coat it in epoxy etch primer, seal seal it, get it really straight, then figure out what's next. Like sanding all the floors in a house before you move in it'll never be easier.

There's a little bit of welding I want to do as well. It's a later frame (not even sure of the year) and has the reinforced front suspension mounts, but a little extra wouldn't hurt. The frame trailing arm sections were replaced by an excellent welder with the new, thicker sections. He did the diff mounts as well, but I'd like to weld big washers around the tops of the diff mount pins to keep them from cracking loose.

The car previously had a roll bar bolted to the differential shelf. That's pretty flimsy, so I'd like to add bracing to the frame that could accept a future roll bar/cage there. I'm not planning on tracking this car, but you never know. It would help reduce the dreaded cowl shake for an FSP autocrosser if I get more serious.

Another thing that needs straightening is the hood. It apparently bowed in the middle from the front end collision. On the side that was hit, it's about 3/16" above the fender. I have slightly rusty spares, but this one is very clean.

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: The gold standard in unconventional things to do to your TR6 that are completely awesome: The rest of the info

JoeTR6 wrote: The really crazy thing I wanted to do was this...

I vote for crazy.

Wow, Megasquirting my MSM and going on vacation really threw this project to the back burner. I finally lifted the body and dropped the frame under it. Everything appears to line up and the door gaps improved. One thing I noticed is that the inner front fender panels are more bent up than I originally thought. That explains why I spent several hours trying to line up the hood, fenders, and front valence. The driver's side is OK. The other has the front valence about 1/8" too far back. Some quality time with a 5 lb. mallet is in my future.

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: The gold standard in unconventional things to do to your TR6 that are completely awesome: The rest of the info

This is exactly what I was going to suggest but I scanned the thread before posting it. Before you totally discount the idea why don't you do a little research to see if there's an M5 engine/trans. out there somewhere with your name on it at a reasonable price. If you put it on the road you'd have something to be very proud of and enjoy for many years to come . . . not to mention that if done right you'd be really mad at BL (or who ever decided what drive train to put in a TR6) for the rest of your life.

To continue the thought, just like I'm still mad @ JRT for not whipping up a nice twin cam 4 and IRS to save the MGB. I worked for a JRT dealer at the time and I was so disgusted I went to work for a Ferrari dealer. Good decision by the way.

I know from Megasquirting a TR6 what it takes to get ~170 HP out of the original motor. It's at least $5000 for a motor that won't rev (safely) above 6200 RPM and you'll live in constant fear of a bearing failure. The 3 liter BMW motor puts out 228 HP and 221 lb/ft of torque. That would be plenty for a TR6 chassis without resorting to using a roll cage as a second, upper frame. I haven't been impressed with the TR6 V8 conversions I've seen. Maybe for a drag race, but not for an autocrosser. So if I did a swap, it would be the BMW M54B30. There are complete one's now on Ebay for $1100 and $1300. I'd probably be better off finding an E46 that was totalled from behind and getting everything with the motor.

For now, I'm focusing on the body and frame. Until paint is sprayed, nothing is really decided.

JoeTR6 wrote: I know from Megasquirting a TR6 what it takes to get ~170 HP out of the original motor. It's at least $5000 for a motor that won't rev (safely) above 6200 RPM and you'll live in constant fear of a bearing failure. The 3 liter BMW motor puts out 228 HP and 221 lb/ft of torque. That would be plenty for a TR6 chassis without resorting to using a roll cage as a second, upper frame. I haven't been impressed with the TR6 V8 conversions I've seen. Maybe for a drag race, but not for an autocrosser. So *if* I did a swap, it would be the BMW M54B30. There are complete one's now on Ebay for $1100 and $1300. I'd probably be better off finding an E46 that was totalled from behind and getting everything with the motor. For now, I'm focusing on the body and frame. Until paint is sprayed, nothing is really decided.

As a current 330i ZHP owner I highly recommend this, the M54 is a fantastic motor with great torque that pulls hard to the redline. It would be an absolute monster of a motor in something as light as a TR6, and you would be keeping with the theme of the car having an I6 motor.

Do it. Post pics :)

Has anyone looked at the GM 4.2 inline six from Trailbalzers, etc? I also have a TR6 on the back burner and this motor looks attractive. 170-190 hp stock, nice torque curve, and $500 on eBay. It's all aluminium, and I am pretty sure you can get an adapter and mate it to a T5 transmission. I'd like a bit more power, but 170 reliable, fuel-injected horsepower for that price is very attractive. The only thing I'm unsure of is how tall the motor is. One of my criteria, regardless of what I decide to do, is that the stock hood fits and no hood scoops.

mightymike wrote: Has anyone looked at the GM 4.2 inline six from Trailbalzers, etc? I also have a TR6 on the back burner and this motor looks attractive. 170-190 hp stock, nice torque curve, and $500 on eBay. It's all aluminium, and I am pretty sure you can get an adapter and mate it to a T5 transmission. I'd like a bit more power, but 170 reliable, fuel-injected horsepower for that price is very attractive. The only thing I'm unsure of is how tall the motor is. One of my criteria, regardless of what I decide to do, is that the stock hood fits and no hood scoops.

They are pretty tall! I don't have dimensions offhand. Check the hybridZ forum. It may fit, but it's awfully tall. neat engine, though.

In reply to JoeTR6:

This is my old friend Chris's TR6, pics stolen from his FB. Beautiful build, with the stock engine being built to 9:1 compression and supercharged.

mightymike wrote: Has anyone looked at the GM 4.2 inline six from Trailbalzers, etc?

Trailbalzer. I'll never see it the old way again.

mightymike wrote: Has anyone looked at the GM 4.2 inline six from Trailbalzers, etc? I also have a TR6 on the back burner and this motor looks attractive. 170-190 hp stock, nice torque curve, and $500 on eBay. It's all aluminium, and I am pretty sure you can get an adapter and mate it to a T5 transmission. I'd like a bit more power, but 170 reliable, fuel-injected horsepower for that price is very attractive. The only thing I'm unsure of is how tall the motor is. One of my criteria, regardless of what I decide to do, is that the stock hood fits and no hood scoops.

those 4.2's are ~270 hp stock, i think its a great idea!

mightymike wrote: Has anyone looked at the GM 4.2 inline six from Trailbalzers, etc? I also have a TR6 on the back burner and this motor looks attractive. 170-190 hp stock, nice torque curve, and $500 on eBay. It's all aluminium, and I am pretty sure you can get an adapter and mate it to a T5 transmission. I'd like a bit more power, but 170 reliable, fuel-injected horsepower for that price is very attractive. The only thing I'm unsure of is how tall the motor is. One of my criteria, regardless of what I decide to do, is that the stock hood fits and no hood scoops.

You're thinking of the power figure from the 4.3 Vortech V6, the later Inline 6 from the Trailblazer makes closer to 275+ horsepower depending on iteration.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors_Atlas_engine#4200

When introduced, this engine's power was 270 hp (200 kW) at 6000 rpm and torque was 275 lb·ft (373 N·m) at 3600 rpm. 2003 saw a slight bump in power to 275 hp (205 kW), while torque was unchanged. For 2006, power was increased to 291 hp (217 kW) at 6000 rpm and torque to 277 lb·ft (376 N·m)) at 4800 rpm with the addition of a MAF and a complete internal redesign of the engine; however due to the new SAE rating procedures ratings can vary slightly between years. Engine redline is 6300 rpm. The LL8 was on the Ward's 10 Best Engines list for 2002 through 2005 and was the basis for all the other Atlas engines. With the closing of the Moraine, Ohio plant and the termination of the GMT360 platform (Chevrolet TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy, etc.) the production of the LL8 was also terminated.[3]

Oops. Typo on my part. 270 hp would be awesome. I know the power to weight ratio is important, but so is the dollar to HP ratio. This motor would be about $2.25 per HP. Not too shabby...apparently the GM 4.2 is 30" tall. By comparison a SBF is 27" tall and they have been put in many TR6's. 3"-4" is a big difference in height though.