What TurnerX19 said. I've been doing that for years.
As for the brake calipers, I've read that too. Something about the factory using a special jig to torque them properly. But if you want to hone the bores before putting in new pistons, that's what you do. Last time I did this, new square seals were available for joining the caliper halves, and I used stainless steel pistons. Those calipers are still fine after 25 years and 30k miles.
TurnerX19 said:In reply to ViperT4 :
U joint removal of the type on your drive shaft is kind of a 2 stage affair. After you get the first cup poking out turn it around and get the opposite one poking out similarly. Then shake the spider back and forth between them until some rollers fall out of place and begin to restrict the motion. The displaced rollers now give you an internal spacer to completely press out the cup on which ever side they fell. Works a treat!
JoeTR6 said:What TurnerX19 said. I've been doing that for years.
As for the brake calipers, I've read that too. Something about the factory using a special jig to torque them properly. But if you want to hone the bores before putting in new pistons, that's what you do. Last time I did this, new square seals were available for joining the caliper halves, and I used stainless steel pistons. Those calipers are still fine after 25 years and 30k miles.
Thanks for the tip. Are you using a u-joint cradle or homemade tool to accomplish this? I've just been working with a pair of sockets and vice/hammer as one does to press the u-joint in one direction, but then would have to press on the cap I just got partially exposed to push the other way. Maybe I'll have to go get a HF press.
In reply to ViperT4 :
I usually use a bench vice and sockets for spacers. I use hammers sparingly for this, and only during disassembly. Use the bench vice to push the first cup in part way, fit the spider into the first cup and then push that cup far past its finish position. Go until the spider end touches the vice jaw. Then you can extend the spider out of that side of the yoke to align the cup and secure the rollers from falling out of position. Install the snap ring into the side that is over installed, then push it together until the cup contacts the ring. The second ring should now install. If it doesn't you have "dropped" a roller. The over extension technique is nearly fool proof to prevent roller drop, but it doesn't work on every size joint. It absolutely does work on your TVR and any Triumph.
Brake calipers: We always have split the caliper halves, and never had a problem, even before the port seal rings were available. I did my first set of this style caliper around 1964, and did a set a month ago. Never bother to hone the bores. If they are clean, and the new pistons fit you are good. Stainless pistons are probably available and a good idea. If buying from Rock Auto examine the new ones very carefully, I have gotten recently from them pistons that appear to have been finished with horribly dull tooling, as well as some that had dents from poor handling prior to final packaging. All of the seal activity happens on the piston and inside the bore groove. Those grooves need to be totally free of corrosion lumps in their corners. Use Girling red caliper grease or an equivalent on every surface of the seals and a light smear on the leading edge of the piston and push in with your thumbs. Do not use silicone grease.
Not quite as far as I'd have liked to been at this point but thought I'd throw another update up here. The chassis came back from the painter. I went with a light gray epoxy. Since I got it back I've been working on getting the suspension parts reinstalled. Work has really picked up so that's kept me from spending as much time on the project as I'd like to.
Some pictures of the chassis:
SuperPro bushings installed:
Also soda blasted and clear coated the rear hub carriers:
Last bit, I went and bought about $100 of new grade 8 hardware to attach all these things to the frame. Started working on one section and realized all my bolts were going to be too short despite them being the same length as the originals.
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D'oh! The new nuts are longer than the factory nuts, so the bolt threads weren't getting into the locking portion of the nut. Thankfully the supplier was happy to exchange the bolts for me.
I did also get the front calipers rebuilt. The rear drums are painted and all the new hardware for them is on hand so I'm thinking this weekend I'll be able to make a decent chunk of progress getting stuff back on the frame. Stay tuned!
Only photo that shows for me is the one of the suspension arms all layed out. All others just have a gray international "No/Wrong Way" symbol
Odd, better now?
In reply to ViperT4 :
I didn't get any images. Just the stuff below.
Frustrating. Maybe it's been so long I forgot which way I was doing it that worked. I think they should be ok now.
In reply to ViperT4 :
If you weren't aware, the board software got updated. The collective wisdom says to clear the cache on your phone, if you've been uploading the pics there. That worked for me.
Uploading from a PC seems to be fine.
Pictures now apparent
Great looking frame
Looks great!
That frame color is really similar to mine.
In reply to ViperT4 :
I ran into the exact same problem! That's what you get for trying to upgrade the components. You can try thinner washers, but I ended up just getting some narrower nylock nuts... for now.
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:Looks great!
That frame color is really similar to mine.
Great minds think alike! I wanted the frame to stand out more than just painting it black would have done because the chassis design is one of the biggest things that interested me about the car.
Stu Lasswell said:In reply to ViperT4 :
I ran into the exact same problem! That's what you get for trying to upgrade the components. You can try thinner washers, but I ended up just getting some narrower nylock nuts... for now.
I exchanged the bolts for slightly longer versions. I know a couple places are tight in terms of clearance in the back of the car but so far it's worked out ok. I'll definitely keep those options in mind if I run into any issues with them as I get more put back on.
Logged some good hours in the garage today before being called in for dinner. I got both front steering/braking/suspension assemblies bolted back onto the frame, and the rear left suspension as well. Currently things have bolts run through them but are waiting final torquing for when I can set the approximate ride height. The factory coilovers are there just to help provide some structure for now. GAZ units were ordered about 3 weeks about so I should have them on hand in a month now.
It certainly took a fair amount of fighting getting the suspension arms fit into the mounting brackets with the new bushings. The paint added a ton of thickness as well so I filed the paint off the inside of almost every set of brackets where the bushings would touch. I learned from the difficulties Stu had in his build so I made sure to get the suspensions arms mounted in the correct locations the first time!
Generally the longer bolts did not cause an issue. The one place where it will be a problem is the front-inner mount of the lower control arm of the rear suspension:
For now I shimmed the bolt out with some extra washers and there's just the smallest amount of space between the bolt end and the frame. There should be enough space to get the next shorter bolt with a shorter nut if I can find where to get one and maybe use one extra washer if needed.
After I get the right rear suspension together and rear drums assembled my next checklist items will be reconditioning the drivetrain, including new seals throughout. The diff, transmission and engine are so covered in oil that getting them to a place where that can be painted is going to be a huge chore. I'm just about ready to clean off the steering rack and front sway bar and give them a fresh coat of paint as well.
Something that would be helpful is if anyone has had the rear suspension aligned, if they could tell me how many shims they have in the camber adjusters and how far out the toe adjustor is set. Just so I can have mine set somewhere in the right ballpark.
In reply to ViperT4 :
I chose not to take that rear adjustable control arm apart exactly for that reason... and then failed to mark which one came off of which side! Since they are adjusted to correct for irregularities inevitable in a hand built tube frame, there is not really any "correct setting" and can vary dramatically side to side. I just close my eyes and hope for the best (just like the factory did, according to some)! I'll find out when it's all back together. I rather suspect Scott will chime in here shortly and tell you how it should be done!
I hate to say it, but I don't have good alignment info either. Mine is just roughed in right now.
But when you figure it out, Stu and I will get to benefit from your knowledge!
Haha, if I am first to get there I will certainly share the knowledge!
So currently stuck with this conundrum on the right rear suspension-
Something is significantly misaligned, but haven't been able to dig in a figure out what yet. I'm thinking it's the holes for the inner pivot rod in the hub carrier are slightly misaligned after having the factory ones cut out. Not positive though because the shock seems to fit pretty decently into its bracket.
I can force the top wishbone into their brackets but it makes it pretty askew to the upright, and that seems like a sure way to snap the top of it off once I start getting load on the suspension.
It's been a while, but those upper arms might be handed. Like flip it 180 front to back and see if that lines it up then.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Thanks Scott. The front uppers are definitely handed but I don't believe the rears to be. I did try turning that upper arm in the picture around so the back was in the front and it was off the same amount both ways. Also the left side went together without a hitch.
(Thinking further...)
What about the toe in on the lower arm? If it is WAY OUT that would affect the fit on the top arm.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Yeah tried that too. Even with it adjusted all the way in it's still like I showed in the pictures.
Didn't have time to get to the TVR today so I'm not any closer to figuring it out yet but the next couple days I'll be able to spend some time with it.
Well, quick little update. I got to spend more time with the car and took things apart to investigate them individually. Pretty sure this situation is causing my issues:
Seems readily apparent to the naked eye. Probably should've been dealt with before sending it back for paint, and I suppose I thought about it but thought it went together originally it must go back together again. I'm guessing there was enough play in the deteriorated rubbing bushings for it to work ok, but the new poly ones don't have that much give. I swapped the upright I was trying to install on the right side on the left side and it all went together just fine so it doesn't appear to be my problem. So starting to investigate having this addressed.
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