1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

G_Body_Man wrote: In reply to The_Jed: Didn't GRM take one LeMons racing?

We ran a Lincoln Mk VII, mainly because it fell in our lap. One day I'm sure JG will buy a G-body.

In reply to David S. Wallens:

When he does, this thread might be helpful.

Buying some PB blaster this week. Hopefully, work will continue this weekend.

So after working on it yesterday I realized two things.

1: Everyone needs to go and check their air filter right now. The filter on my Cutlass was not only black, it was the old design for the Fram CA326 filter .

2: I need a rear frame rail extension graft . My left rear frame rail extension is badly rotted. I found a graft about an hour away, now all I need is my parents to approve the purchase of the frame rails, and to find a shop to drop the gas tank, cut out the old rail, and weld in the new one (standard procedure for g-bodies). Oh well. Time to turn my bank account upside-down once again.

I've done that job, it's not bad.

Take this as an excuse to learn to weld, the investment in (mostly used) equipment will be less than the labor to pay somebody to do the job. You could do this job with a $100 HF fluxcore welder.

I've done a few and they are not bad. If it comes out a bit sloppy as first welding projects often do no one will see it.

I'm not far from you. If you want to tackle that job, I may be able to help.

In reply to Zomby Woof:

How would you go about cutting out the old metal? That's the main concern at this point. HF Flux-core welders are decently cheap, so I could do it myself. I hear that the welding process is the easiest part of the process.

in an only negligibly related way, I desperately want to restomod a Cutlass like the one Marky-Mark drove in "Four Brothers".

...want it bad

In reply to G_Body_Man:

Sawzall, or an angle grinder with a cut off disc. Then take it down to bare metal, trim for a good fit, spray with weld through primer(especially inside), bolt it on to locate it and weld it on, wire brush clean and grind weld reasonably flush(back to that angle grinder) and apply weld through primer again, then weld a plate of simialr thickness(primer on the backside) an inch or two wide over the repair for added strength, wire brush it down to bare metal again, paint, done. I've never done a G body, you might have to undo a few body mounts after welding 3 sides and lift the body so you have room for the welding gun.

In reply to Kenny_McCormic:

Thanks! Thankfully, all I have to do is drop the tank to access the rails, as well as position a few jack stands under the body to keep it separate from the frame. You instructions are perfect! Thanks a million!

I thinik you have to remove the bumper and undo one body mount. Sawzall or grinder works fine.

Before you out the bumper back on project two should be to weld in a piece of tubing connecting the right and left frame rails to cut down on the frame twisting. If you are really ambitious do the same up front.

In reply to Wally:

Sounds good.

I have good news and bad news. Good news is that the frame rail extensions are solid enough to allow for me to safety it. Bad news: I'll have to wait a while to do the frame rail extensions. My Grandma doesn't want a single drop of gasoline on her garage floor, and I cannot guarantee I can siphon the tank cleanly (I need to drop the tank to do the rails). Soon, however, I will completely prep the car for storage, and then take it out in the spring.

A few drops of gas isn't going to hurt the floor, and you wont get any on the floor anyway, just suck it reasonably empty (outside) and drop it, then cap off the hose connections, poking a hole in one so it can breathe.

I'm pretty sure that would be a one line electric pump system, right? Pop the fuel hose off the hardline in the engine bay, attach a longer one out of the engine bay and into a jerry can, turn the key on, you should get fuel out the line now(until the tank is empty), if not, short the fuel pump relay.

Be sure to replace the fuel hoses (and the filler hose if it looks bad) while you're in there.

In pretty sure all the carbs have a mechanical pump on the engine.

In reply to Wally:

AFAIK GM changed over to electric in the mid 70s. Friend has a pretty minty 76 Buick with a factory electric pump, no mech pump.

Edit, ok looked into it, looks like they mostly stuck with the mech pump, including the G body. So you will have to siphon the tank.

My g body had a mechanical pump.

Yup. I checked, and mine has a mechanical pump.

So I'm trying to pick up a set of Super Stock Wheels.

What do you guys think is a fair price?

dont know what those typically go for but they are an excellent choice.

It's official: I picked up a set of super stocks. They have some surface rust, but they only cost me $100 for the set, with tires.

It has been fun to see a young person so involved and excited about their car. reminds me of myself along time ago. I wish there had been this much knowledge readily available to me back in the day.