Ive had fitment issues in the past. Once I had to swap out for another set of the same brand to get them to fit and once for another brand entirely. Luckily I had a Jegs store 2 miles away at the time.
Ive had fitment issues in the past. Once I had to swap out for another set of the same brand to get them to fit and once for another brand entirely. Luckily I had a Jegs store 2 miles away at the time.
I'm wondering about removing the bracket for the rubber spring stops, if I can get away with it.
Are there any differences between the diesel and gas chassis that could be causing header clearance issues?
Edit: Loving this thread, my parents have owned at least one Suburban for the past 26 years. Our first one was an '83, then came an '87, and they've now had their '95 for forever. I learned to drive on the '83, and learned to drive a manual on my dad's '77 1/2 ton Chevy pickup (3 on the tree, straight 6). Lots of love for the old body style (73-87 for trucks, '73-91 for Subs) Chevy trucks and SUVs.
Cool burb, dunno how I missed this thread for a week. I used my 84 3/4 ton 2WDR 454 to tow my 24' enclosed for years. Still have it but it's "resting" at the moment. Trying to decide what to do with it since it has a bit of cancer.
It's headers, you usually have to alter them a bit.
Nothing says fun like taking a brand new $700 set of ceramic coated Super Comp headers and beating the E36 M3 out of them so they clear the steering linkage...
In reply to dj06482:
thats what I am wondering myself...
Okay I really had took the photos before Christmas so after work yesterday I took a peek and it looks like it hits the pinion snubber, so yeah thats getting removed.
More progress!
What you can't see (and I will get photos later) is how how I have Taurus SHO fans hidden in the factory shroud, very clean.
Just have to make/adapt/modify some radiator hoses so i can hook up the SBC to the 6.2L diesel radiator.
and now even more complete!
I also replaced the TBI injectors because they were nasty, I'm surprised they even fired. next is install plug wires, fill with fluids and pray.
I went to hook up the hydroboost on this but the new pumps don't have an outlet on the bottom, so I just traced the line back to the hydroboost unit and plugged it, I assume that is what is needed to do on these.
That and I have no idea what the connector goes to that you see by my heater core lines…
fidelity101 wrote: That and I have no idea what the connector goes to that you see by my heater core lines…
Where is the other end? What is it connected to?
[Hard to tell in the photo (could be a ground strap...potentially for the hood, even).]
Clem
ClemSparks wrote:fidelity101 wrote: That and I have no idea what the connector goes to that you see by my heater core lines…Where is the other end? What is it connected to? [Hard to tell in the photo (could be a ground strap...potentially for the hood, even).] Clem
I guess I should be more specific:
that ground strap is a battery connector just laying around, I have no idea what that 2 pin electrical connector goes too.
fidelity101 wrote: 14 bolt rear end, 8 lug all around
Awesome Suburban, but I just want to clarify, the axle you have in your truck is not the Corporate 14 bolt full floater axle I think you are referencing. That is a dana axle, most likely a 60.
They are very different in terms of replacement parts and make-up, hence my wanting to clarify (in case you break something and need to source parts).
At any rate though, awesome truck. The TBI350/SM465/NP205/208 combo is tried and true in the rock crawling/ultra heavy duty 4x4 world because they're cheap and practically unbreakable.
I guess its not a FULL floating I should have said semi floating but I thought this was a 14 bolt semi floating axle? They had dana 60s in the front on the 1 ton but the 3/4 ton and 1 ton share the same rear end.
How can you tell that its a dana 60? I do count 14 bolts on the diff cover :P
It could be a semi float I suppose. Some 3/4 ton suburbans did come with D60 rears as well though. It just looks to me like a D60. The only way to really tell the difference between the D60 and semi-floater is to get the casting number off the drivers side of the pumpkin. It might be covered by decades worth of road grime though :p
OK, so I just brushed off my book o' research into old GM stuff. You do have a 9.5" semi floater 14 bolt. I am sorry about that. For some stupid reason, I thought the full float and semi float shared the same casting and pinion cover.
I blame lack of alcohol, sorry for misleading you.
In reply to golfduke:
lol no worries, either way the rear end is still overkill for me.
fidelity101 wrote: Also the race car works perfectly fine and is not needing any attention
I'm calling you out on your bullE36 M3, you just wanted another project 
In reply to Raze:
okay okay okay true.
it has E36 M3ty gearing (4.75-ish is needed for rear end or rx8 trans) for my application/power
rx8 trans is sitting in my garage but something is borked on it..
engine is tiring out and 'low' on compression.
I would like to give it more skid plates and direct fire setup, possibly re-do the intake manifold and a properly sized carb.
and once this engine stuff is sorted out I need to make my attention at some suspension, steering and HVAC "concerns" that the burban has. Yes it will have AC and even rear air :)
In reply to fidelity101: If that thing had factory air, it's the turn on lead for the AC compressor clutch. The compressor was located where that large idler pully you have now is, it looks like the compressor was removed and replaced with that idler pulley at sometime, i think i see the receiver dryer at the left hand edge of the picture.
That would make sense...
Yeah it had factory rear air the lines are run already the switch to the fan motor in back works. The compressor on the Vbelt style was on the driver side but with the serp belt swap I had to use a delete for the time being. I need to update/retrofit it to R134a. I just have to yank the stuff out of the appropriate model year and maybe adapt an AC line.
weekend update with colin quinn!
it runs! and from the sounds of it, I think it has a cam...
fidelity101 wrote: I think it has a cam...
That's always a good sign.
I should hope it has a cam in it 
See, now if you had a Miata or a solid axle RX-7, those nice short gears would be a handful of bolts and a trip to your Kia-stocking junkyard away. (My "source" has like six of 'em on the shelf, $100 per) I wonder how different the RX-8 R3 diff is species-wise for fitment in an FC. I know it's an 8" ring gear like Turbo II and FD but know nothing else.
In reply to Knurled:
I know :(
there is no good diff gearing out there for me that doesn't cost a grand.
updates!
My roommate teaches at the local high school for auto shop so I left it with them for rest of winter, it was also free indoor storage!
Anyways here is what I had them do: 1. weld up exhaust
new outer moog tie rod ends (one outer tie rod end is almost the length of the vehicle, they are joined with a coupler, bizzare...
moog idler arm "ball joints"
moog front sway bar bushings and endlinks
they changed all fluids! (diff, t-case, front axle, rear axle)
moog u-joint for front axle
probably a few other things but mostly stuff I didn't want to do in the driveway.
what I did: 1. SHO taurus twin e-fan with thermo op switch
whats going on now?
engine has a main bearing knock that sounds like the crank may pop out of the block...
Long time no update! Well some good news and some bad news. the good news is that I got that engine in and had it mobile for a bit. dropped it off with my roommate to take into school (hes a shop teacher)
so it was parked indoors for majority of winter while the students did the following(read free labor!):
T-case fluid
Front axle fluid
Rear Axle fluid
transmission fluid
front sway bar bushings
front sway bar endlinks
intake manifold gasket
idler arm/pitman arm
outer tie rod ends (damn these things were huge!!!!!)
steering dampener
power steering flush
header-back exhaust (not really new piping but modified to fit exisitng leaky exhaust) All the easy bitch work that I didn't want to do/don't have a welder or welding talent.
Then the engine went out, I heard a low end knocking (like main bearing) but I haven't heard it in a while, right now its got a squeak thats intermittent timing and I'm wondering if a cam lobe is ground down...
and all the TBI electronics are crappy (read corodded connectors, wiring, sensors) making it virtually useless. Roomate came in handy with spare parts so now the engine build has changed.
Q-jet
HEI
edelbrock performer intake manifold
torn on fuel right now, I really don't want to drop the tank+tank skidplate to go to mechanical pump but I dunno if I have the coin to get a regulator that goes from 18psi-5psi.. I use one on my rx7 that would work but its about a 140 dollar regulator...
SO I gave up with craigslist and got spendy....
Specifications
4-bolt main with 2-piece rear main seal
Cast iron crankshaft
LT1/LT4 powdered metal connecting rods
Cast pistons (dished)
Hydraulic flat tappet cam (.383''/.401'' and 112° lobe separation)
8.5:1 compression ratio
350tq, 260hp w/ 4bbl+headers
and free shipping to my door and 3 year 100k mile warranty! But now I need a new flywheel since the rear mains/cranks are different...
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