1989 Toyota MR2 S/C

Can't. Upvote. More. Than. Once.

Thanks Robbie!

I ordered a Caliper Garage alignment kit. My Lincoln is all messed up and I don't trust Plaza tire to fix it. They tried 3 times and never got it right. 

More work tonight. Took out the igniter and coil assembly, removed the rotor from the distributor, and will only be using the crank angle sensor in the distributor. 
 

I found the knock sensor broke at some point so I am going with a Bosch unit instead of an original one. This thing was hard to find under the intake tucked up next to the supercharger. 
 

Loaded the haltech software and started filling out fields. Good stuff so far. I don't need 16 nitrous stages but I like that as an option. 

I do think I am getting this wiring thing figured out and it isn't nearly as bad as I feared. 

In reply to singleslammer :

If you have use for this stuff, I'll send it to you. MR2 dizzy seal kit, dizzy roll pin, and valve cover washers.

In reply to Vorpal :

I think my seals are still pretty good but I definitely could use more of the valve cover washers. 

singleslammer said:

Loaded the haltech software and started filling out fields. Good stuff so far. I don't need 16 nitrous stages but I like that as an option. 

Yeah...you should totally be able to get by with 8 stages ;)

Here are a couple of nice examples.

These just came in. Exciting stuff

I just noticed the Scruffy signature.  Classic Scruffy!

I've seen a few SciFi movies...you NEED overrides.  They can be critical

Mmmm...tires!

In reply to ClemSparks :

My challenge team name is another scruffy favorite: This one's lost its pizzazz.

singleslammer said:

In reply to Vorpal :

I think my seals are still pretty good but I definitely could use more of the valve cover washers. 

Sounds good, please DM me your address.

I have the crank pulley off so I can add a trigger wheel to it. I may or may not NEED it with the signal I can get off the distributor but thought that it was good insurance. 

While I have it off, I was thinking about adding the solid pulley that raises the is supposed to raise the PSI from ~14 to around 18-19. The internet wisdom is that it will take the Teflon off my supercharger rotor tips. Internet wisdom is so reliable. I do think that I might be spinning the little guy a little fast at that point. Maybe if I upgrade the intercooler with a water sprayer. I do have the parts to add a water to air set up but I have bitten off enough as it is. Perhaps I can just lock the stock clutched pulley and just deal with this later. 

Edit:I just realized that a water sprayer may be a really bad idea as the intercooler is mounted parallel to the ground in the engine bay. The battery is near by but nothing else. Maybe I should consider a water injection set up mainly for cooling. Probably like 25% ethanol to water. More research required. 

Edit 2: Stock SC pulley with the aftermarket crank pulley that the car came with. I am getting scope creep and need to make sure this thing is running in a month. 

Put in an order with TwosRus for rear rotors and pads, new Autocross pads, and fancy brake fluid. I also got one on their "bolt in" oil pan baffles. It cost $55 and seems like a no brainer. 

I'll just put this here........

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

So this is what I have plus the OEM parts. I am little concended about the solid crank pulley. Those three all have rubber in them. These are NST, I think.

singleslammer said:

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

So this is what I have plus the OEM parts. I am little concended about the solid crank pulley. Those three all have rubber in them. These are NST, I think.

 

 HP Academy wrote:

We often get asked why a harmonic damper is necessary if we have gone to the trouble of having our engine components correctly balanced. This question comes from the common (but incorrect) belief that the harmonic damper is there to deal with the imbalance of the stock components in a factory engine.

The reality is that no matter how well your engine components are balanced, a harmonic damper is still an important addition to your performance engine build. The reason we need a damper is because each combustion event produces a small amount of torsional vibration in the crankshaft. As we move through the rev range we’ll find that at certain rpms we will reach a resonant frequency where the effect of the vibration is magnified and this can become damaging, particularly if we happen to sit at the resonant rpm for an extended period of time.

A common failure we see in engines fitted with light weight crank pulleys that eliminate the harmonic damper is the failure of factory oil pump gears that are driven directly by the crankshaft. While this is just one potential failure point, it illustrates how serious theses harmonics can be. A harmonic damper is designed to eliminate these damaging torsional vibrations and protect the engine components from damage. So if you’re about to splash out on one of those flash anodized alloy under drive crank pulleys to save some weight and free up some power, just make sure you understand the potential downsides!

https://www.hpacademy.com/ 

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

Thank you. That is very helpful. I will switch to the solid pulley on the supercharger itself and put the stock damper back on. 

Supercharger is out. I will take some photos of the pulley swap. 

I "finished" decluttering the wiring harness and took some of the unneed modules out. Such as the cruise control and supercharger relay/controller. 

I literally popped a rib out when I took out that supercharger. No real updates for a few more days as I don't want to deal with that again. 

I now know why the crank pulley swap is more popular than the solid supercharger pulley. Getting the clutch system off takes several toyota special tools and is generally a huge pain. I have managed the first step but may need to make a tool or see if the OE on is available.

I have been working on clean up of the engine bay. Pulled the vacuum assisted cruise control (yuck) and Idle air control valve. 

Pulled the rear disks off to have them turned. 

I contacted NST about instructions for installing the pulley on the supercharger. Their response was hilarious. 

Hi Jordan,

Wow, that's a very old pulley!  Those pulleys were special order custom
pulleys, very few were ever made, and they were discontinued over a
decade ago.  Unfortunately we do not have installation instructions on
those pulleys.

Thanks again, best of luck with all your projects!

I have a really rare item

Was gone for a couple of days so need to get some things done. 
 

Got the new supercharger pulley installed. Had to trim the bearing retainer plate to install it but overall not bad. Need to check torque requirements but installed with a new stainless nut with nylon locking ring. 
 

More fiddling around with wiring. Deleted some more unnecessary things *cough* vacuum cruise control *cough*. The engine bay is looking pretty cleaned up. 
 

Installed the new Bosch knock sensor. It is two wire unlike the OE unit single wire. I assume one is for ground so no issues there. 
 

I have a couple of air temp sensors that I would like to add. One looks like it will fit nicely where the OE cold start injector lived with a little work. The other will likely be right after the supercharger. 
 

There is a plan to mount the new throttle pedal. That's as far as that has made it. 
 

Harness termination will start later this week. 

Harness termination hasn't started. Just been trying to sort out odds an ends. Getting the throttle body and pedal wiring sorted out. Made up a pedal mount that appears that it should fit nicely. Need to add some rivnuts and install it to make sure it isnt too tall. 

I am planning on spending all day on Sunday working on the wiring harness. 

Bought a Zamp full face helmet. 

In reply to singleslammer :

Was the cruise control functional? I may be interested in it. Mine did not work and I'm not sure why

In reply to Mrfurzzy :

It wasn't but you are welcome to the parts.