Cycling, a low impact sport until it's not. One of my shoulders is permanently separated (cyclocross race, fell at the start and my collarbone separated from the shoulder) and the other likes to dislocate when I forget about it after going over the bars of my mtb a number of years ago. At least you'll be good to go before spring comes around.
Do your physio and you'll be back turning wrenches soon enough (skiing/snowboarding will take longer though).
Adam
In reply to adam525i :
Doc doesn't want me to do any PT for now, says it'll just aggravate the injury and slow healing. So I can run on the treadmill and that's about it. I really hope this heals up faster vs slower, I really don't want to miss the ski season!
The most annoying thing about this is I fell riding a really easy, non technical trail!
I'm biased because its my field-but that seems like bad advice from your MD.
Here in the UK it pays huge dividends to find a specialist- most generalist Docs will simply say avoid doing stuff, as noted, and the suspicion is that this is a CYA approach.
Most of my friends are cyclists, many competitive, and at any one time I usually know two people with broken collarbones.
=Can’t hurt to find a specialist and ask their advice (if you ignore the money aspect which you chaps have and we don’t).
This was an orthopedist that I saw. PT isn’t going to help the bone heal any faster all it will do is impede healing....
They didn’t recommend plating it?
Nothing to plate. It's a non displaced fracture of the very head of my humerous. Just gotta sit here and take the pain until it heals up. Well, that and not lift my arm over my chest and don't pick up anything heavier than a coffee cup.
That sucks. It's usually the "easy" stuff that gets you.
Heal up and hopefully feel better soon.
Mike
Sorry to hear about the shoulder, that's tough! Glad you don't have to immobilize it since that would make the whole healing process longer (not that I need to explain that to you). I was in a pretty serious motorcycle accident a long time ago, shattered the trapezium on my left thumb and had a grade 3 AC separation on my right shoulder. Between the cast and the sling, my brother called me no-hand Dan :) It was amazing the atrophy and amount of PT/effort to get decent mobility back in my thumb. Hope the healing process is quick and you can still get to enjoy most of the snowboarding season.
docwyte said:This was an orthopedist that I saw. PT isn’t going to help the bone heal any faster all it will do is impede healing....
We have different opinions of what a PT does. We are typically involved as early as possible during the healing process. Only during absolute immobilization does the doc usually withhold PT.
I’m comfortable with my orthopedists diagnosis and treatment choices.
This isn’t a spot where PT is beneficial until the bone has healed
I reckon half a roll of duct tape and you'd be set.
Don't forget the zip ties!
docwyte said:I’m comfortable with my orthopedists diagnosis and treatment choices.....
You and your Doc are ultimately responsible for your healing so that's what matters most. Please heal fast, I want to read more about the 911.
So got more goodies for the 911 that I can't install until my shoulder gets better. Got a set of bullet nose 81mm length wheel studs and lug nuts from ACS.
Really hoping my shoulder gets better sooner rather than later!
In reply to docwyte :
I always have parts piled up that need installed. Good job + kids = less time for my shenanigans.
So a friend took pity on me and helped me install the studs today. Which basically meant he took the wheels on and off for me as I can't lift that much because of my broken shoulder.
I had to change out the rear spacers first. The car came with a set of GT3 wheels, which have a narrow body rear offset, so spacers are needed. Previous owner had these weird H&R spacers that bolt to the hubs using the factory lug bolts, then have studs pressed into them. Which meant I couldn't reuse them without pressing the studs out. I ended up just replacing them as I figured I can resell these.
So, starting point, blank hub.
Since the studs are bullet nose and don't have an allen key, you have to double nut them to install them. Don't forget to use red loctite!
Finished product. I'm happy because the studs don't stick out past the wheels, so they're not noticeable.
I also got these really cool delrin lift pucks. They go into the factory jack points and you just turn them to hold them in place. Now you're not lifting directly on the body of the car. Cool.
The studs are from ACS and are high quality. I ended up buying them from ACS but through eBay as my sister had given me an eBay gift card. I had to buy the studs and nuts separately and noticed I was getting charged two separate shipping charges. When I paid, I included a note asking ACS to refund me some shipping as both studs/nuts would get sent to me in one box.
When the studs/nuts arrived, they did come in one box but ACS didn't adjust the shipping charges. When I went to their website and recreated the order, shipping was quite a bit less than what I got charged. I messaged them through eBay pointing that out and asking them again to refund the shipping charges. Response I first received as that I got charged the proper amount. When I pointed out it was much less if I ordered directly through their website they then blamed eBay, but still didn't offer to refund me the difference in shipping charges.
So, good product, not good customer service. I've responded to them one last time pointing out their lack of customer service and the fact that they just ripped me off on shipping charges. If they don't refund me I suppose I'll leave them negative feedback as that's all I can do. Honestly I'd order elsewhere, there are plenty of places to get studs/nuts of the same quality who will treat us all fairly.
Next up, installing the spark plugs, coil packs and tow hitch. Then I'll take it to my dealer for a GT2/track spec alignment and have them chase down a boost leak for me.
So, shoulder still hurts. I was planning on sucking it up and doing the spark plugs/coil packs tomorrow anyways, even tho I'd have to take off the rear wheels myself. I usually don't work Fridays but a new patient with what sounds like a big case wants to get started, so I'll go in to see him and get the evaluation going tomorrow am.
Probably won't have the time to get work done by the time I get home, we'll see.
Anyways, I've been exercising my credit card instead! I have no idea what alignment the car has right now, nor the last time the car even had an alignment. The rear toe is controlled by eccentric bolts and apparently these can slip, especially in track/auto-x use.
Elephant Racing makes handy "toe plates" that lock these eccentric bolts in place and keep the rear toe settings stable. So I bought a set.
Not much to look at but at least they weren't very expensive. Already have an appointment with the dealer to get an alignment and have them put these in, plus check the car for boost leaks and fix them.
A really nice set of BBS RS-GT wheels/tires popped up on Rennlist for a not unreasonable price. Since I need to replace the tires on my current street wheels anyways, I looked into them. I'm a sucker for that classic BBS style wheel. I asked the seller what the date code on the tires was, his response was classic.
"The tires look new, I hardly drove the car! Date code is 2004"
Uh, those are twice as old as the tires I currently have, which I'm throwing away due to age. I tried to work a deal for just the wheels but he wanted way too much for them. Oh well.
Plan is to replace the tires on my street wheels now and I may replace the race tires too, as they're not spring chickens either. Anyone want a cheap set of R888 race tires? Think they're 245-40-18 front, 315-30-18 rear. Very little wear, just old.
I can’t speak to those wheel studs but I know a lot of studs are supposed to only be run in finger-tight.
But studs will a nice upgrade from the bolts!
edit: but you already had studs! Well, those are some nice studs :)
So this morning my friend helped me drag the factory sports seat out of my basement and put it back into the car. I removed the Euro GT3 bucket I'd previously installed.
Why? Well, I bought another car, this one to be specific.
My plan is to resurrect it and use it as my auto-x/track car, so I no longer need the fixed back seats in the 911. The 911 will now just be a fun street car and maybe occasional auto-x'er. I'm going to use the funds from selling the Euro GT3 seats to pay for the purchase of the miata, which is how I'm justifying buying it to myself.
Still need to do plugs/coil packs. Then the dealer will install the Elephant Racing rear toe plates, do an alignment and check/fix boost leaks. Then in the spring I'll do an oil change and brake fluid flush.
Plan is to swap my factory turbo twists with Toyo R888's onto the car and use them up. They're newer and softer than the HTRZ-III's on the car now that I kinda need to replace due to age. So might as well burn up the good tires I still have before spending money on another set of tires.
Swap you the seats for the 997 GT3 shifter and some $?
In reply to Dammit :
I just sold the seats for cash money, needed it to pay myself back for the miata. Just got paid in fact, so really happy! Always a little stressful going out of pocket for something with the thought of selling something else after the fact to pay yourself back...
In reply to docwyte :
That’s a funny looking 996 turbo.
In reply to AnthonyGS :
LOL! My garage is getting quite a bit more full. In fact I'd say its at capacity now, at least to have everything inside.
Time to get back on this. I’ve had parts sitting on my work bench for far too long.
now that I’m off the Miata, it’s 911 time.
first let’s replace the cabin air filter. Yeah, that’s orobably 15 years old. Gross!
Old vs new
Yeah, that needed to be changed. Time to go after the spark plugs and coil packs.
first, take the rear bumper cover, tail lights and wheels off. I did that for the exhaust, earlier, so straightforward stuff.
next the rear inner wheel liners need to come off.
Now take the intercoolers off. It comes off as an assembly with the shrouds and brackets.
Now peel back that aluminum foil looking heat shield and take off the 2 10mm bolts holding the metal heat shield in place. Push that heat shield out of the way and you have access to the coil packs.
Old plugs were kinda nasty looking
Getting the coil packs out is a little hard, access is tight. Pull the plugs, new ones go in, torque to 23 ft lbs. the updated coil packs are larger, so getting them into place takes a little patience.
then assembly is the reverse as they say. Hopefully this gets rid of the misfire.
You'll need to log in to post.
