Let's get it running and driving first.
I'll take those pistons if you're giving stuff away though.
Beer at the Challenge?
I think these things will flat rate box to you if you need to save on the shipping budget. How does shipping work if you put me on your team?
Let me double check the grit before I mail it. I bought it for moly rings and it looks like you are probably getting standard rings. Send me am email through the board with your info and see if it goes through.
Derick Freese wrote: Beer at the Challenge? I think these things will flat rate box to you if you need to save on the shipping budget. How does shipping work if you put me on your team?
I am not sure. Let's just put the beer and the shipping as the cost, it will still be half of the new ones. I want to be fair. Otherwise I could just put all of GRM on my team...
moparman76_69 wrote: Let me double check the grit before I mail it. I bought it for moly rings and it looks like you are probably getting standard rings. Send me am email through the board with your info and see if it goes through.
(really doesn't think that he needs to hone if he sees hone marks, esp with soft steel rings)
tuna55 wrote:Derick Freese wrote: Beer at the Challenge? I think these things will flat rate box to you if you need to save on the shipping budget. How does shipping work if you put me on your team?I am not sure. Let's just put the beer and the shipping as the cost, it will still be half of the new ones. I want to be fair. Otherwise I could just put all of GRM on my team...
All of GRM IS on your team Tuna.
mazdeuce wrote:tuna55 wrote:All of GRM IS on your team Tuna.Derick Freese wrote: Beer at the Challenge? I think these things will flat rate box to you if you need to save on the shipping budget. How does shipping work if you put me on your team?I am not sure. Let's just put the beer and the shipping as the cost, it will still be half of the new ones. I want to be fair. Otherwise I could just put all of GRM on my team...
You guys are awesome
tuna55 wrote:moparman76_69 wrote: Let me double check the grit before I mail it. I bought it for moly rings and it looks like you are probably getting standard rings. Send me am email through the board with your info and see if it goes through.(really doesn't think that he needs to hone if he sees hone marks, esp with soft steel rings)
It's a 320 grit silicon carbide. You have my email let me know, I'm offering
mazdeuce wrote: Can you feel those scratches with a fingernail? I might be more inclined to hone after seeing that.
I can feel nothing. I can see the hone marks clearly though the skirt scuffing.
Ok then, maybe not. It's only the fourth picture that looks iffy and that might just be the picture. You need to work on your in place down cylinder photography skills.
any chance the cylinder might be slightly out of round with those scratches in that spot?
can you mic the bore?
mazdeuce wrote: Ok then, maybe not. It's only the fourth picture that looks iffy and that might just be the picture. You need to work on your in place down cylinder photography skills.
The iphone work pays for is WAY better at taking pictures than my old good camera is.
I still am not very good at, well, many things.
Mad_Ratel wrote: any chance the cylinder might be slightly out of round with those scratches in that spot? can you mic the bore?
I doubt it, but anything is possible. The done scratches are still visible so it can't be any out-of-round-er than they are deep.
Given those vertical scratches, I'd hone it. It's pretty easy to get a decent x-hatch with a D-berry hone and a drill.
beans wrote: In reply to Swank Force One: SAdly(actually, probably for the better) it's soooo much easier to just buy the H23A VTEC engine. They're like $800, have the better H22A JDM cams(non type-s), the "better" H-series VTEC head(PDE? I forget at this point, slightly different valve angles), and usually make more than 200whp/170wtq with light bolt ons and tuned.
With the builds i've done, what makes you think i'm interested in "easy" over "strange?"
I would hone that (well, I would have honed it anyway, but still) and see what it looks like. If a hone doesn't make those disappear its time for a machine shop visit.
tuna55 wrote: I'd like to do valve and seat lapping, but I am not sure I can fit it in the budget. I may do the quickie lap with the compound in situ. Not sure yet. I'd love a good three angle job, but I don't even know where to look.
I don't know if they still exist, but Dover Cylinder Head in Greenville is where I have gotten Corvair and Buick heads done before I moved away in 2001.
If new calculations are right:
$124.99 on parts. The budgetary total will be $749.99, the real total will be somewhat higher based on tools that I didn't have. I'll update for real once I pull the trigger.
I've asked Tunadad about the hone marks. He's rebuilt enough engines to give me the tiebreaker.
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