The brake pedal symptom has always been a master according to what I have heard.
But I've also had leaking wheel cylinder and calipers do the same thing with no indication until dissassembly.
The brake pedal symptom has always been a master according to what I have heard.
But I've also had leaking wheel cylinder and calipers do the same thing with no indication until dissassembly.
I know you checked but I bet it's the booster, its probably got fluid inside the bladder.
Let me rephrase that, technically it's the master, but the disappearing fluid is the booster.
moparman76_69 wrote: I know you checked but I bet it's the booster, its probably got fluid inside the bladder. Let me rephrase that, technically it's the master, but the disappearing fluid is the booster.
I want to agree, but I can't find anything wet behind the booster. I even pulled it away from the firewall and ran a paper towel around it. Dry!
Booster sucking fluid into the engine? I had that happen. Install a clear vacuum line to the booster and watch the engine sucking it in!
Sounds like what happened to me once. Rear seal in the master went out, and the fluid was being sucked into the engine.
volvoclearinghouse wrote: Time to break out the cardboard and duct tape, and start hypermiling.
I have to work up the nerve to tear apart the front suspension to do my phoni's (adding 10w fork oil to my awful struts). When I do that, I'll cut the springs a bit. When I do that, I can add an airdam. I am looking forward to that.
Good job, Honda. This is probably the easiest manual transmission fluid to change.
I threw in 10W-30, which is what the manual asks for. I had some Rotella T lying around from my oil buying binge earlier in this thread. It's already in the budget.
The drain plug is a bolt with a square drive. I wasn't impressed with this initially, but it came out with no drama. The fill plug is a 17mm hex with a gigantic thread and hole. I was able to put in a rather large hose and route it through the engine compartment and fill from the top. Easy-peasy.
Shifts are better. Old fluid was black.
Master cylinder ordered...
dropstep wrote: Same oil i just put in my 94 transmission. Mine has a 3/8 square for drain 1/2 drain for fill.
1/2" drive? Interesting. I suppose it's good for poka-yoke but I like the hex better than the square drive in all cases. Was your fill also a very large hole? Mine was like 2.5" in diameter. I was able to use a leftover pool pump hose that I saved.
Tunakid #2 and I did the master cylinder!
He's five. He's not nearly as thorough or patient as Tunakid #1. He poured the brake fluid in the master, watched me switch it, and asked a million questions "Is this cylinder the master because it's really good at being a cylinder?". He really helped when it came time to bleed the system, though. I got a one-man-bleeder with a check valve, but even so, it used way less fluid and was more efficient if you opened and closed the bleeder for the first five pumps or so.
As far as he's concerned, I couldn't have done it without him. It's close to true, I was nearly out of brake fluid when we were done. The fluid in there was orange/brown, and now the pedal is super-hard.
No good pics, just the checklist
New budget:
$1233.73
New "real" (including tools and drinks and such) budget
$1373.71
tuna55 wrote:dropstep wrote: Same oil i just put in my 94 transmission. Mine has a 3/8 square for drain 1/2 drain for fill.1/2" drive? Interesting. I suppose it's good for poka-yoke but I like the hex better than the square drive in all cases. Was your fill also a very large hole? Mine was like 2.5" in diameter. I was able to use a leftover pool pump hose that I saved.
It was big enough i just stuck the 10w30 oil gun at work in it.
I like Pennzoil Synchromesh in Honda transmissions, a little notchy when cold but smooth at butter when warmed up. I've heard Amsoil gear oil works really good too, may try that in the next transmission.
So it's been a month, and my 312K mile Honda with it's ghetto-rebuilt engine, original transmission, pieced together exhaust, and ten year old Mini wheels and tires... just works. Every day.
It's really amazingly competent. How... Honda of it.
Pretty amazing really. Similar story with the Civic we dragged home last year, although you did a lot more work to bring it back. They definitely are doing something right in the long-term reliability department!
I really wish I had more stuff to add here!
When I get back in the wing of things out in the garage, I'll eventually get to replacing the struts and such, but golly, it's just all so "done"...
It's a Honda. You maintain it, and it keeps going.
No worries.
Just think of all the extra time you have to spend with the kids, and working on your truck!
volvoclearinghouse wrote: Any updates on the fuel economy? Still high 20's?
Yes. I have plans to monitor the fuel mixture during driving, but somehow the wideband power cable is damaged and I have not yet sourced a replacement.
tuna55 wrote:volvoclearinghouse wrote: Any updates on the fuel economy? Still high 20's?Yes. I have plans to monitor the fuel mixture during driving, but somehow the wideband power cable is damaged and I have not yet sourced a replacement.
Is that a jab?
volvoclearinghouse wrote:tuna55 wrote:Is that a jab?volvoclearinghouse wrote: Any updates on the fuel economy? Still high 20's?Yes. I have plans to monitor the fuel mixture during driving, but somehow the wideband power cable is damaged and I have not yet sourced a replacement.
Maybe. I actually don't remember how it happened.
I buggered one up years ago. Then I thought for certain I didn't have it anymore. Then I finally cleaned my basement and found it hiding in some dark, dark corner where apparently A/F meters go to die. I returned it, tail between my legs, bought a new cable for it, etc, and you and Pete bought out my share. So AFAIK I'm no longer affiliated with it, but who knows, I might have some sort of retroactive responsibility. I'm married now. I'm getting used to it always being my fault.
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