$2015 Challenge entry - 88 Accord LXi

Mad_Ratel wrote: Have you ordered parts for the rebuild then? I think I can finagle some time friday to help you.

Friday I'll be skipping car time to pack for weekend trip to the Beaufort Air Show / In-law visit. Weather permitting.

I appreciate it though!!

bluej wrote: I see no way that Tuna drops $350 on motor mounts. I could maybe see him dropping $400 on a junkyard motor/trans combo that would work with minimal fuss with his stock axles, and fabbing his own mounts. Aren't honda ecu's of this vintage hacked to heck and back? If there were a free/cheap and well traveled path to getting a basic tune w/ the junkyard motor, then I could see a swap actually happening.

Dude, it's like we're brothers.

Alright folks, tell me what I'm missing:

$144.36 to the budget if I pull the trigger(s).

I would still need to get an offset woodruff key.

Not sure on cam seals (I am leaving the cam alone), crank seals (leaving the crank in the block) or water pump (replacement was recent). I got a little spendy with the rod bearings and the timing belt. Not sure why.

Mad_Ratel wrote: Dad's 911's first death was due to this on one piston. but all four? ... wow. how are you going to flush the metal particles out of the oil passages/oil pump? and how did the damaged rings not damage the bore???

Nothing.

My reasoning:

Maybe a hundred miles with it like this. The chunks were really big, and almost all piston and ring. If they already haven't damaged the top end (cam lobes look great) or the bottom end (no scratches on any bearings) I think I'm good.

I'll just swap the filter a few times when it's done.

I am still unsure about the hone/no hone issue. I can still very clearly see the cross hatches. I'll take some good pictures to show off later on. In my opinion that means I am good there too.

Does shipping count against the challenge budget?

volvoclearinghouse wrote: Does shipping count against the challenge budget?

Not for the car, yes for the parts

I can recoup parts off the car though

Anyone want to buy some roasted pistons as mementos? An old timing belt with my autograph?

Roasted pistons make great ashtrays. Polish them up and sell on etsy.

volvoclearinghouse wrote: Roasted pistons make great ashtrays. Polish them up and sell on etsy.

This is a neat idea. If you can sell parts as something more valuable than just as "used part X", that's a pretty rockin' way to get max recoup.

Also, this car needs a name. I can put the name on the parts and sell them here for goofball GRMers that love that stuff.

tuna said: Nothing. My reasoning: Maybe a hundred miles with it like this. The chunks were really big, and almost all piston and ring. If they already haven't damaged the top end (cam lobes look great) or the bottom end (no scratches on any bearings) I think I'm good. I'll just swap the filter a few times when it's done. I am still unsure about the hone/no hone issue. I can still very clearly see the cross hatches. I'll take some good pictures to show off later on. In my opinion that means I am good there too.

Eh, I'm gonna disagree here. Having been inside a few motors that ate themselves to death, that E36 M3 gets EVERYWHERE. Clean or replace the pickup, flush the oil galleys in the main girdle, the block, the head and the crank, and THEN do a multiple oil changes in the first few minutes flush.

Dude if it settles the internal debate I'll ship you my dingleberry hone. Just pay to ship it back. Warning though, its a 320 grit.

As a homage to this discussion I feel like you have to name it "the dingleberry."

Also your list of parts seems to have +.5mm pistons on it.

How about "Dinglehonda"?

moparman76_69 wrote: Dude if it settles the internal debate I'll ship you my dingleberry hone. Just pay to ship it back. Warning though, its a 320 grit. As a homage to this discussion I feel like you have to name it "the dingleberry." Also you're list of parts seems to have +.5mm pistons on it.

Fixed.

If you send the Dinglehone, I'll use it, why the heck not.

That would leave $263.64 for suspension and paint and such.

I'll have to figure out how to get some freeish wheels/tires, and I will refresh the brakes and such for "free" on the budget.

Accordian?

Slocord?

Dingord?

Blowcord.

Oiru. (japanese for oil according to ze googles).

Can we add a detail about how it has the super rare 710 delete package?

What's the bolt pattern on those wheels, current diameter/ width, and backspacing?

Old School Hondas Anonymous.

I would be inclined to go ahead and shave the head anyway. The heads are all the same, it's the pistons that make the compression ratio difference. I feel it's worth the expense, but only if you're doing other things like porting the head, reworking the exhaust, a new intake manifold, and most importantly, the ability to tune.

Project creep.

volvoclearinghouse wrote: What's the bolt pattern on those wheels, current diameter/ width, and backspacing?

Stock 14”x5.5” 45 mm offset 4 x 100 mm bolt pattern

215 width fits with 45 mm offset wheels

225 width fits with 40 mm offset wheels

15" for popular A6 take offs may be the hot ticket for the Challenge

Derick Freese wrote: I would be inclined to go ahead and shave the head anyway. The heads are all the same, it's the pistons that make the compression ratio difference. I feel it's worth the expense, but only if you're doing other things like porting the head, reworking the exhaust, a new intake manifold, and most importantly, the ability to tune. Project creep.

For the rest of the crowd (the first part of this conversation was E-mail)

I am not sure shaving the head is worth the extra 10 hp for the premium gas, especially considering what happened to these pistons, since I am not doing the intake manifold or any tuning/wiring.

Mad_Ratel wrote: Can we add a detail about how it has the super rare 710 delete package?

I will make a faux window sticker. That is an excellent idea.

In reply to Swank Force One:

SAdly(actually, probably for the better) it's soooo much easier to just buy the H23A VTEC engine. They're like $800, have the better H22A JDM cams(non type-s), the "better" H-series VTEC head(PDE? I forget at this point, slightly different valve angles), and usually make more than 200whp/170wtq with light bolt ons and tuned.

I might have a budget MS kit you can borrow.