$400 mazda B2000..the mazdeath.

Pres589, thanks for the info. Sounds like a decent motor. I'm guessing as you say it's longer stroke, that means it's the 2.3 motor I've heard about?

I don't think 200bhp should be too hard in theory. I'm not sure exactly what needs to be done with the carb put plan on learning by doing. I know of several guys in the uk that used to run a ford 1.6 engine with a carb and turbo and were in and around the 200bhp mark. And also I know that the French company Renault made a car called the Renault 5 GT turbo. This was a 1.4 with a carb and dinky turbo. They were very popular in the 90s and there were tons around with lots of power. So the carb thing shouldn't be an issue aslong as I do my bit right. People run boosted v8s on carbs without a problem too so it's definitely doable.

Mndsm that sounds pretty impressive.

Jamesmcd I'm interested! Hurry up and get home from work haha!

Stumc wrote: Pres589, thanks for the info. Sounds like a decent motor. I'm guessing as you say it's longer stroke, that means it's the 2.3 motor I've heard about? I don't think 200bhp should be too hard in theory. I'm not sure exactly what needs to be done with the carb put plan on learning by doing. I know of several guys in the uk that used to run a ford 1.6 engine with a carb and turbo and were in and around the 200bhp mark. And also I know that the French company Renault made a car called the Renault 5 GT turbo. This was a 1.4 with a carb and dinky turbo. They were very popular in the 90s and there were tons around with lots of power. So the carb thing shouldn't be an issue aslong as I do my bit right. People run boosted v8s on carbs without a problem too so it's definitely doable. Mndsm that sounds pretty impressive. Jamesmcd I'm interested! Hurry up and get home from work haha!

You can make 200whp very, very easily on these.

When you say these do you mean the FE I have or the other motor?

Stumc wrote: When you say these do you mean the FE I have or the other motor?

Either one.

I have been running 18psi on a T3/T04E with 630's and MS. I recently broke a ring land on my .5mm oversize Non-Turbo F2 8.6 pistons. I'm freshening up a Stock F2T bottom end for 20+psi for the MX-3.

Stumc wrote: When you say these do you mean the FE I have or the other motor?

I happen to have an FET (your motor + fuel injection + turbo) on an engine stand in my shop:

This is the original FET turbo set-up:

But you are unlikely to find an FET to scavenge off of. So I recommend buying someone's cast-off F2T manifold and turbo, and attaching it to your FE (it happens to bolt on) like so:

This would be a slight upgrade over the FET turbo, and would be the "easy button." You can bolt this right on to your existing motor, and your stock FE is strong enough to handle the F2T turbo set up as long as you have fuel and keep the boost reasonable. I would recommend adding fuel injection though.

Yeah, maybe the carb turbo FE setup will be okay, it just seems harder to tune.

Good luck with the truck and the build thread.

That's good to know the block is plenty strong enough for 200+.

A question for you. Where are the FET oil feed and drain plumbed into? It'd make me a happy boy if I didn't have to drill and tap anything if my block has them already.

I've never tuned a carb that's being fed boost, but my plan is to get a variety of jets and just start with low boost and monitor it closely with an AFR gauge, swapping jets here and there and figuring it out. I plan on running the ignition as far retarded as it'll go initially for safety, to give me a little bit of a buffer. I used to have a ford 4 cyl that was supercharged and ran the stock map, injectors and ignition timing, ran high compression (10.3:1 iirc) and I just tuned the fueling with fuel pressure and a 5th injector setup. I can't imagine this will be too much harder, although there might be more variables.

Here's a pic of the turbo oil drain pointing directly at a bung fitting in the rear of the block. You can see it in the turbo-less pic above as well. I'm not sure if the non-turbo FE has this feature, so you may have to modify your pan.

Take a look at your truck and let us know.

To feed a carb boost, need to follow some examples, Lotus or Maserati. Lotus added boost pressure to the float bowl, while Maserati put the entire carb into a box, either way will work. As the intake charge pressure goes up the float bowl pressure must also rise, or fuel will not get drawn into the jets, it will flow the wrong way. Also need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, same issue, need the fuel feed to be about 2 psi above the air inlet pressure. This way the air inlet is still a relative vacuum compared to the fuel and float bowl pressure.

MIE Maserati sells the fuel pressure regulator for the Bi-turbo, match that with a fuel pump capable of at least 20 psi and enough flow to match the power expected.

I'll sort through my stuff, but I believe I have an F2T manifold. If I find it, I'll donate it to your cause.

Wow that'd be really kind of you!

Ted, that's a good idea with regards looking for a FPR from something that ran carbs and a turbo from the factory. I may get in touch with my buddies back in England and see if they can source something lotus or Renault over there and send it over.

I also need to do things like replace or reinforce the floats, as the increased pressure could crush them. I'm toying with the idea of coating them in some type of glue that's hard as F but fuel resistant.

These were always cool looking trucks. They even look good slammed/chopped/mini trucked up. I'm sure if Mazda came out w/a modern version of this truck, it would sell like no other.

Using the Lotus method, find some Dellorato carbs, there are two different float bowl covers, one is vented, the other has a fitting for a hose, to connect to the intake pressure. Those carbs are always on E-bay and parts are still available. I think they used the same floats, but you might want to start with a new set of floats.

A 1987 B2200 was the car I drove through High School and college. My dad still uses it for dump runs and winter driving. His best friend bought it as a stipped-down model new, and put Western wheels and a moon roof on it. The wheels are like these and look fantastic. http://www.ebay.com/itm/WESTERN-WHEEL-CORP-34-4712-POLISH-FINISH-/122009837013

It has no power steering and is actually fun to drive with the manual. It evens feels a little punchy in first gear at low rpm.

Looking forward to seeing this progress!

I've towed a couple different 626s (~ 2,700lbs) with a B2000, using a dolly, long distances without trouble. You just have to remember that you've got very little stopping power.

Well I found that fuel pressure regulators from the Renault 5 are pretty easy to come by still, in the uk that is, so I may get one sent over. I also managed to pick up s few new parts for the truck tonight. New door panels although they're grey and not the brown that the truck has. A new exterior door handle for the drivers side as it was busted. A new seat, really clean apart from one small rip on the side where someone caught it with a screw driver :( got s new rad hose too.

Most importantly, I managed to wrangle a carb into the deal. It's from a slightly later b2200 so I'm not sure exactly how interchangeable it's going to be, but I figured it would be good as a test bed for modifying the one on the truck, have useful spare parts, and a set of larger jets.

also remember when boosting through a carb you need solid floats so they dont collapse under pressure.

Well I tore the spare carb apart tonight. Again, not sure if it's exactly the same as the one I'll be using as it came from a 2200, but I'm sure there's similarities there. Anyways, figured out how to delete the choke, to prevent any boost leaks. The float chamber appears to be connected to the barrels so will get a boost reference. The float in this carb seemed solid, or it was certainly very very sturdy anyways. I couldn't even deform it by hand, so hopefully the other is the same and will be fine once under pressure. Although I'm sure they're interchangeable.

I also screwed around with the vacuum operated 2nd choke/barrel. Looking at it, I realised that under pressure, the diaphragm would be forced down rather than pulled up under vacuum, and wouldn't open the 2nd choke. I've figured out an easy way to block the vacuum feed and will weld a small L shaped tab into the linkage to open it mechanically between around 50-100% throttle. So that's good!

I think that was it. The carb will probably never go back together and just become spares. But I'd rather get the guesswork out of the way on that instead of the brand new one fitted to the truck!

TED_fiestaHP wrote: Using the Lotus method, find some Dellorato carbs, there are two different float bowl covers, one is vented, the other has a fitting for a hose, to connect to the intake pressure. Those carbs are always on E-bay and parts are still available. I think they used the same floats, but you might want to start with a new set of floats.

I bet he could just find a cheap Holley with all the parts to convert it to boost on Summit racing.

I don't mean to distract you since you seem to be moving fwd with the turbo carb setup, I just feel obligated (since you are new to Mazdas) to let you know you have a relatively simple rwd drop-in from Kia:

http://www.mazdabscene.com/threads/27344

http://www.mx6.com/forums/fe-dohc/144059-kia-fe3-into-mazda-b2200-anyone-have-one-up-running.html#/topics/144059?page=2&_k=thwnz8

It's based on the Mazda FE3 (2 liter 16v) which never came to the US market. It shares the same bellhousing bolt pattern and motor mount locations as the F2T. Mechanically it would be a straightforward swap, but you'd need the harness, ecu, fuel pump, etc to get it going in your truck. My most recent trips to the junkyard I've noticed a lot of Kia Sportages, so you won't have any problems sourcing parts for quite some time.

Buy a set of stock Mazda FE3 cams, some Honda B18 compcams valvesprings, and replace the exhaust valve retainers with new Kia intake retainers, and you will see 8000rpm in it. That would be fun even if you didn't add a turbo...which you could still do later on.

It does sound very tempting! I'm kindof trying to break my wife in gently to the whole idea of a project vehicle though, we've only been married and living together for a few months. I feel like keeping the stock engine and just adding bits and pieces now and then will be less likely to cause any issues!

I did have to have a few minutes contemplation the other night though. We got the truck back to my house on Monday, me and my brother in law set about getting the bizare ignition fault sorted. We got it Sussex (a bad connection) and got it running, sorted a few vacuum leaks ad got it idling properly but it sounded somewhat rough. After doing some checks, it's not firing on number 4, and I suspect there's a compression issue. Whipped off the valve cover to quickly check there were no obvious valve issues, which there weren't, but there was a lot of while mayo crud under there. Part of me wonders if it's just condensation from the water that was in there, but the probability is the head gasket. The top radiator hose was split when I got it so I'm thinking it's over heated, I just hope the head isn't cracked.

I'm still trying to accrue a proper set of tools (just moved over from the UK with very little) so picked up a compression tester and torque wrench yesterday. I'm gonna do a compression test before I take off the head and check it out. I have a gasket set and timing belt kit on the way, will check the head isn't cracked first, then do a valve job, new stem seals, new water pump, bolt it all back together and hopefully it'll be good to go. It's tempting just to ditch the engine and upgrade one way or another, but I'd like to stick with it for the time being.

We'll see, il keep this updated once it's had a compression test and the head is off.

In other news, I wet sanded the passenger side and got rid of all the white paint and a bunch of scratches, fitted an exterior door handle, the new bench seat and the new passenger door trim panel. Waiting on a new window regulator for the drivers side then that panel will go back on and the whole thing will be much better.

So I've lagged a little bit on the update, but last weekend my brother in law, Justin and I set about pulling the head of to inspect a suspected head gasket failure. We had found that there was little to no compression on 3 and 4, although bizarrely it seemed to run fairly well when we first fired it up and only dropped cylinder 4 later down the line. We had around 120psi on 1 and 2 which seemed low so had planned to do a valve job at the same time.

Turned out the head gasket was indeed blown! In a big way!

We did a valve job, replaced the valve stem seals as we went, and bolted the head back on to get a compression test done. Cylinder one was slightly low at around 150, but the rest were all up at around 165. I was fairly pleased as the Haynes manual of lies claimed 170 from the factory.

While the carb was off I went round and blocked all of the emissions related vacuum lines, leaving only the stuff like vac advance to the distributor, and the 2nd barrel etc.

Bolted it all back together and what do you know, started right up and ran like a dream. Great news!

Later in the week we set about rebuilding the shifter as it felt like stirring a porta potty full of frozen turds. The slot in the ball on the bottom of the shifter was worn slightly so was never going to be anywhere near nice, so a quick eBay search and we found a short shifter from an rx7 which looked like it would be the right part based on the picture, for $17.49 I decided it was worth a shot. That'll hopefully show up in a few days.

Finally, a guy from my work kindly gave me a magnafuel fuel pressure regulator.

It's built for n/a carb motors, however I contacted magnafuel and asked about switching the top for one with a boost port and whether it would work under boost. It's $35 for the new top, and it will work just fine under boost! More great news!

Next job after the shifter is fitted is start hunting for a turbo and manifold. Its my birthday next week and I've asked for Home Depot gift cards, if I get enough to make it worthwhile buying a welder, I may build an exhaust manifold with a t3 flange rather than go for an f2t manifold, which should open up my options for turbos.

Progress has been slow so haven't bothered updating this a whole lot, between work, side jobs in the evenings and weekends and a very time consuming patio table set restoration for my mother in law (still not complete) there hasn't been a whole lot of work done. However I now have in my possession a lot of turbocharging paraphernalia. I now have a cheap turbo manifold from eBay, with a new TD04 intended for a Saab 93, which absolutely does not in any way remotely come close to fitting. Intercooler is fitted, along with the bumper. Regulator now has its boost port, and various other bits and pieces have arrived.

I'm still in need of a welder to be able to make any meaningful progress but am struggling to make a decision as to whether to go big and lay down $1500 or so on a Lincoln 210mp and some accessories that I can mig and tig with, or whether to just by a Home Depot middle of the road Lincoln 140 mig at about 1/2 that.

I hope to get a load of pictures compiled and update this properly soon when things get moving again. Hopefully as soon as I get my hands on a welder, be it my own or a loaner from someone, and a weekend in the garage, things should fall together pretty quickly.