Not able to do much with the Lotus but I did buy another tool to use. The biggest Soda Blaster HF had. I simply cannot do an entire car of block sanding anymore. 
Surprised at how much controversy there is about Soda Blasting. It is not new tech, been around a long time now. I notice that most of the "OMG Soda Blasting is TERRIBLE!" post are at least a decade old. Have to chuckle at those who complain of soda still being in their car years later, it is water soluble!
Current post-blasting tech is to rinse with water and Hold Tight 102, including for fiberglass. Looking forward to doing some of the small panels first.
Hi Richard,
guess we have the same problem ahead of us....bought a Europa and an R17- took the engine and gearbox....
Funny my old Europa( orange- sold as projet in 2007 ) raced around Reno, now I am finally starting to build another one.
Stefan 702 353 7175 now in Austin Texas
So far I have only blasted a portion of the bonnet, mostly the underside.
Wondering why I did not get a soda blaster years ago. Do have to adjust the feed and air or a bag disappears much too quickly.
R17, TS head?
TS twin Weber intakes are still available, some claim Bike carbs are better but Weber is proven and tuning parts easy to get.
Looking forward to pulling my engine over the summer, making a fixture to replace the engine and trans so the car remains a roller.
84FSP
UltraDork
1/19/21 7:45 a.m.
Trying to talk CooperTired into doing the soda blast thing on Fred his F250 that has had multiple coats of roll on paint applied at some point... Did you have any issues with damaging panels with the soda?
yes I got the full Gordini package, plus Webers are waiting....need to get an exhaust made. Will try to do a CV drive shaft conversion and to relieve the gearbox of the stress...
84FSP said:
Trying to talk CooperTired into doing the soda blast thing on Fred his F250 that has had multiple coats of roll on paint applied at some point... Did you have any issues with damaging panels with the soda?
Not at all, but getting the air pressure and feed rate adjusted is critical to getting good use from the somewhat expensive Soda.
Lots of very old threads about Soda being an issue, but all I could find were related to improper post-blast paint prep.
gtsclassics said:
yes I got the full Gordini package, plus Webers are waiting....need to get an exhaust made. Will try to do a CV drive shaft conversion and to relieve the gearbox of the stress...
Twin link conversions are available off the shelf, I think Banks has them.
Anyone wanting a Europa should get it now, the prices appear to be going up pretty steeply.
Almost strange as they were flat and being left to rot for so long, guess it's a new generation of enthusiast and guys finally getting what they wanted long ago.
Your build is more ambitious than mine except that I may be looking for a spare engine since the one I have may not be all that streetable on todays crap gas.
For the guys who wanted to buy mine, https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/knightsen-1974-lotus-europa-tc/7266158507.html
NMNA but looks like very good deal as it's a TC and they sell for twice as much when finished.
And I still prefer the Renault engine for myself.
It's time for a confession. I passed on a free Series II Europa when I left DC. Too many cars to move already and not enough storage space. One day I'll kick myself hard for doing this. But not today.
Figures, I pay thou$and$ for what others turn down for free!
Oh, free comes with a lot of big bills when a Lotus is involved.
Actually from what I am seeing a Europa is really hardly more expensive to do than a lowly Spitfire. Except for the engine and trans. But the Renault engine is not that bad, the TC is another story.
After straining to do some simple work on my truck this morning I was strongly reminded how badly I miss the two-post lift I used to have.
My new shop floor should be poured and finished this week, and we are putting in an extra thick area for the lift.
After nearly buying a new and well regarded "U.S.A" branded unit I abandoned that company when I found their actual manufacture is done in China! 
So I've found a very good deal on an older unit that is in fact U.S.A. made. 
Felt pretty good about that, then realized that using it for the Europa may be tricky. 
Seems to me I will need to fabricate some sort of cradle to pick up strong points on the chassis.
Certainly cannot just lift from the sills and there are no perimeter frame rails.
Anyone else dealt with this?
Pics of the solution?
In reply to RichardSIA :
To lift a Europa & remove the engine? I think I'd want to fab up 2 beams that fasten to the pads on each side & support the backbone as far forward & rearward as possible. It's probably a good idea to make pads that support as much of the backbone as you can, though it's a light enough car that you don't need to go to crazy. I'd also make sure it supports the tub slightly near the outer edges too, just for added stability.
The Lotus factory said to lift it by the body. Specifically at the sills immediately behind the front wheels and immediately in front of the rear wheels. I always use a wood pad that is a minimum of 6" square and overlaps the inner fender by 1/16" inch to unload the horizontal floor area. A beam all the way across per Pete's idea is good in the front, but won't work in the rear due to the engine's presence.
Color me overly cautious but I don't think I can bring myself to do it without some additional support.
The very thin fiberglass body is now fifty years old!
Strangely enough, I also have a blue Europa with an 807 engine just beginning restoration and currently letting some oil sit in the cylinders before turning it over, but...... to your question.
I would not use the fiberglass as a lift point, never have and have heard of issues in doing that.
At the rear, I lift at the bottom of the hoop / rear transmission carrier. A little padding will keep from scuffing the paint.
At the front, I lift under the ends of the frame "T" under the lower suspension mounting bolts. I also go to the center of the frame to left both sides. A little padding is also a good idea (piece of soft wood) since it is only sheet metal.
Both those locations have worked with no issues.
Your car may be Canadian. Mine was and sits at the same height which is lower compared to stock US cars. I don't believe mine has been lowered (I bought it in about 1972 with 5000 miles on it).
Also, re some comments on your post. I use 205/60 13 tires on 13x6 rims. They require a little trimming of the inside lip in the rear (not visible) and little trimming of the top of the wheel arch in the front (slightly visible).
Ron
In reply to RonPNW :
I will confirm USA ride height was taller than Euro market.
RonPNW said:
Also, re some comments on your post. I use 205/60 13 tires on 13x6 rims. They require a little trimming of the inside lip in the rear (not visible) and little trimming of the top of the wheel arch in the front (slightly visible).
Ron
Also speaking by from a guy who was buying 13s recently, you can still get Toyo Proxes 888s in that size.
Tire rack link
Even indirect progress is still progress. Re-veneer of the dash just got a lot easier.
Bought a professionally made vacuum machine to assist in laminating dash boards at a local garage sale.
Only have a few to do, Spitfire, GT6, Lotus Europa, maybe the Jag XJ6 and possibly a Locost.
In reply to RichardSIA :
Oh nice, sounds like you have your work cut out for you with it.
Looked it up on-line. I got a $500 setup for $25. 
With that start I have to put it to good use.
Gave in and began dismantling the Europa head today.
Need to take a look inside the engine to know why #4 has poor compression.
Been sitting about twenty years so the need for new rings is a pretty safe assumption.
Just hoping the cylinders and pistons are OK as new performance parts are hard and expensive to get.
Pic of how Renault turned a mundane single cam engine into a "Hemi" without changing the block.
Bonus points if you can name the English roadster that used a similar setup.
And yes, using Google is cheating!
In reply to RichardSIA :
I'm happy to see you back to work on this one!
