Make SURE the regular had lights and the rally lights are very isolated from one another so the failure of one doesn't immediately bring down the whole system. I'm sure you know that, but, you know. 
Make SURE the regular had lights and the rally lights are very isolated from one another so the failure of one doesn't immediately bring down the whole system. I'm sure you know that, but, you know.
Will do. And then smack myself for not reminding you. ...after we pick ourselves up from laughing as we remember this thread...
In reply to mazdeuce:
Given this rule:
NASA said: It must be possible to turn off all high-beam headlights and auxiliary lights with a single switch, which must leave the low-beam headlights functioning.
The low beams are isolated. The aux lights are triggered off the highbeam wire, but get their power directly from the battery- I should keep a splice connector on hand in case they need to be hardwired for some reason, even if it's in violation of the rules.
You need to be able to kill them with one switch, but that doesn't mean that they have to function that way normally. You can just put all of the relay grounds through one switch. Sort of an "arm the lights" switch. Turn that on (or leave it on) and then use individual switches to operate the separate lights you want. You still have a master Hi kill, which is what the rules want, but the lights are still pretty isolated from each other, and all you have to super duper protect is that one ground. Other ways to do it too, but that's just what came to mind.
^^ yeah, that rule annoys me as well. I will need to figure something out as my highs, LEDs, and floods are all on separate circuits. Will worry about that later though, since RA rules don't have that caveat, only NASA....
Doubly annoying to me since my lows are better than my highs, so I want to run THEM with my LEDs/floods and not use the highs at all. I think the way may be to run the 12v switch power through the high beam power to the auxiliaries, so they'll only work when the highs are on.
Kind of wonder how much that's enforced in practice. Will have to talk to some people....I don't remember seeing a master light kill switch on very many cars at events I've been to or cars I've crewed for.
I do like being able to trigger the big lights all with one switch, that's how I've done it on all my other cars/bikes with extra lighting- I just worry about that one failure knocking everything out, so I'll probably have an "override" that runs the rally lights without need for anything else. The way I read that rule doesn't indicate such a thing is illegal, and I have something similar on the Rally Bike which I was never bothered about in tech.
New DTSS eliminator bushings have been installed- they came with aluminum sleeves, so I reused the steel sleeves from the old ones (hey, they outlasted the rest of the bushing right?) and just pressed in the new delrin.
I have to go to St. Louis for a few days, but when I come back, I think it's time to test drive this thing. 
would be interested in a wiring diagram if you have a chance at some point
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ wrote: I do like being able to trigger the big lights all with one switch, that's how I've done it on all my other cars/bikes with extra lighting- I just worry about that one failure knocking everything out, so I'll probably have an "override" that runs the rally lights without need for anything else. The way I read that rule doesn't indicate such a thing is illegal, and I have something similar on the Rally Bike which I was never bothered about in tech. New DTSS eliminator bushings have been installed- they came with aluminum sleeves, so I reused the steel sleeves from the old ones (hey, they outlasted the rest of the bushing right?) and just pressed in the new delrin. I have to go to St. Louis for a few days, but when I come back, I think it's time to test drive this thing.
To activate the lights use a Double Pull/Double Throw switch (I think that is right.) one side uses the 12V from the high beams to pull in the relay, so you conform with the rules, the other uses a straight 12V off the battery. That way if you have a problem on your High Beam circuit,or you want to use the lights with your low beams, you're in business!!
^^ good stuff, I didn't know such a think existed. Looking around for one now :)
Test drive:
It needed the fuel pump wired to the battery again, I still need to fix that. It also needs an alignment, but otherwise it's great!
Diff works, suspension feels solid, it runs well other than the fuel pump thing...
Some say he thinks windshields and doors are just extra weight, and that he has had a hard time finding a new gig since Top Gear was cancelled... all we know is, this was a closed course and he's called the Stig's cheapass cousin:
https://www.youtube.com/embed/a6n-wRpAMmc
lol, a little light up front when you left the turnaround? 
What? That was wheelspin 
Cyber monday lunacy: ordered seat, harnesses, headsets, fan controller, roll bar padding, helmets, HANSs... rally cars are expensive, even on "cheap internet shopping day".
no kidding.....happy I can borrow the Chump harnesses for this year lol. Did just pick up a HANS though. Waiting til January to order helmet and comms from Europe :) What helmet did you get?
Zamp open face- VERY cheap, cheap enough that if it's crap I'm ok with that.
In Other News, Some BullE36 M3
So, I was all happy from driving it yesterday, ordered all that gear, and went to register the car. Here's the title, and the plate I want and... what? I can't? What the berkeley?
It needs an Enhanced Vehicle Inspection, which will delay the registration process and probably require me to install some things I wasn't even planning on buying. Fun. 
looking good. i'm looking forward to rallying with you in the mustang.
In reply to tdrrally:
When will it be ready? Maybe if I keep swapping out projects some day we can all go to a NASA event where like 1/4 of the field was previously owned by me
In reply to ¯_(ツ)_/¯:
Bummer! What all is required? We don't have anything other than emissions, unless its been totaled, then the state patrol picks over it very carefully....
In reply to java230:
In this case, it's the same as if it has been totaled. It should be OK, I spent the better part of the afternoon reading the inspection code and don't see anything I don't plan on having.
I know the EVI is going to be different but if you need a local place that will do an annual inspection and not give you crap about the minor details, let me know.
In reply to RedGT:
I appreciate it, ever since the ultra sketchy place I used to use shut down (gee I wonder why?) I've been forced to cater to nitpicking. For this car I'll have whoever does the EVI handle the other inspections as well.
Installation is the reverse of removal!
My cyber Monday deal seat already showed up- thanks Amazon!
It should come as a surprise to exactly nobody with a working knowledge of anything both automotive and Italian that Sparco builds things to a tolerance of "eh, not my seat. Let's go to lunch." As a result, this installation involved swearing, a breaker bar, several blood sacrifices, and the summoning of a demon- but at least it's a steel tube seat so I can actually bend it enough to do that
And if we zoom out, a door!
Soon my wiring junk will all arrive, and I can hopefully close the incredibly annoying chapter of this build devoted to wiring.
Well, it sounds like I should be pissed I missed that deal. How cheap were they?
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