Your poster rocks.
Your poster rocks.
Hey, so how do us common folk get a copy of that poster??
It'd look pretty cool on my garage wall too.
In reply to GPz11 :
I sent you an email with oldtin's contact info, let me know if you don't see anything.
Got it, I'll give him a call in a bit.
Thanks!
We ran wiring this weekend- the 12/2 (yellow) is 20amp service for the lift, and the 10/3 (orange) is 30amp for tools and stuff.
Yes, it's running outside the ceiling, and yes, I know I'm a hack. Those ceiling tiles are made out of some sort of ancient (and most likely asbestos-infused) cardboardy junk and held in with 20+ nails each, if we replace the ceiling in here in the future I can tuck the wiring away then. Everywhere else it was pretty easy to run it along the routes for existing wires. Over 100ft of wire needed to be run to get to the correct room, then further to get to where the lift will be, but after spending all day at the top of a ladder it's there.
Very legit lock-out tag-out:
I turn off the main breaker any time I'm touching those wires, since having the breakers hooked up at all makes me a little nervous.
We also did boring stuff which doesn't photograph well, like adding safety cables to the garage door springs and new seals to the bottoms of the doors. We used some extra cable to turn some of our "floor art" into "wall art" and Sara took a neat panoramic:
I just submitted my order for a 9k lb 2-post lift 
I dig the wood paneling and brick.
Very nice. Don't be ashamed about the wiring - sometimes you just gotta get it done and neaten it up later. Tell me about your wall art - are those going to stay wall art or some day be functional again?
In reply to dculberson :
I did the majority of the design work and a great deal of the construction and development of both cars in a different era of my racing addiction-#40 has been crashed pretty hard and would be very difficult to turn back into a functioning vehicle, #90 could be driven again with only a few thousand dollars in parts and a few hundred hours of work.
To be honest about the wiring, I kind of like the way it looks now- brightly colored wires running over old architecture has some post-apocalyptic aesthetic appeal to me, it's very Half-Life looking to my eye.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:I just submitted my order for a 9k lb 2-post lift
Your life will never be the same.
Delivery and installation scheduled for Friday the 13th. What could go wrong? 
As cheap as conduit is, I'd at least pretend to make the wiring up to code. Just has to look the part.
In reply to lnlogauge :
I think Romex is allowed outside of conduit, right? It passed inspection exposed in other parts of the garage when we bought the place.
Whoever is PMing me, I can't respond to you since your .edu email address seems to be dead- you can send me an address to reply to if you want!
Cool! I love old houses, and just bought one myself... ours is a 1915 craftsman style home with 9' ceilings and original oak flooring. My shop is quite a bit smaller than yours; I have room for power equipment, my workbench, and my engine stand, and that's more or less it. If I cleared everything out, I'd have room for a coupe of some sort, but no space to work on it. I'll take the trade off in shop space, though, because the house is 4300 square feet... I've no problem at all wrenching in the driveway.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Depends on the area. If there's risk of damage, protection is required. Leaves it open to interpretation in some ways. I would guess that your garage has significant more risk than your interior. I've seen your work, that garage isn't going to be idle very much.
Passing inspection from a home inspector doesn't mean it would pass with the county. They are looking for different things.
In reply to lnlogauge :
I didn't know that about the home inspector, I figured that anything not to code would have been caught so I was copying what I saw as "passable". I do plan to protect any wires that come down the walls, and I'll be sure to not chuck any parts at the ceiling until I've got some more legit protection in place.
Agreed. Many (most) older houses will be filled with violations to the current code - the basement of my ex's house was a web of wiring stapled to the underside of the floor joists, so you really can't go by existing conditions. Anything new installed should be to current code. I recently did this sort of work and running Romex on the underside of joists isn't allowed (but it used to be). If it's exposed like that, it should be MC cable. When I rewired a lot of her house, my right-angle drill got a serious work-out.
From what I can find, it appears this would be acceptable if it were above the ceiling panels and therefore protected, right? And next time I do this sort of thing I should use NM cable I guess, or not be lazy and pull the panels off wherever I need to tuck it into the walls/ceiling.
It'll depend on where the wiring is running in relation to the joists. It typically needs to be about 1.25" or more from the nailing surface of the joists or studs.
Wow, that's a nice place. I pay 1200.00 a month in property tax here in SoCal. I seriously need to think about a move.....
IrishMike said:Wow, that's a nice place. I pay 1200.00 a month in property tax here in SoCal. I seriously need to think about a move.....
Be careful you don't overshoot and end up in NJ or you'll still be paying the same amount without the nice CA weather.
IrishMike said:Wow, that's a nice place. I pay 1200.00 a month in property tax here in SoCal. I seriously need to think about a move.....
damn... I pay 960 a year...
but the kids on the block are pretty dumb and our roads are E36 M3.
I don't deal with NM very much- but last I knew you could run it exposed, supported (stapled, etc.) every 4.5 feet as long as it is protected from physical damage. So you could flank the run on either side with firring strips (or something) and you are good to go.
Putting it above the ceiling, it has to be run through or along the joists. Through would be a beotch in that older wood, and needs to be at least 1.5" above the nailing face of the joist. Or you can buy these metal nail protector plate things if you can't get the 1.5".
Oh- that's all from the national code, local codes still apply.
As for the double hung windows- are the ropes still attached to the top of the window frame? The ones I've seen have ropes that attach to the movable part of the window, run up to the top of the frame, go over pulleys then run down in the wall attached to a sizable weight.
You two are just plain awesome! I'm so happy to read about your next adventure 
In reply to paranoid_android74 :
Some windows have ropes, some have metal ribbon type stuff, some don't visibly have anything. I think most of them still work, as they seem to be getting lighter as we move them and free things up. Glad to have you along for the ride, this is definitely an adventure as I haven't really ever done any work in the construction/landscaping/remodeling/residential anything world, ever.
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