TED_fiestaHP said:
I had one of these, great car, but had a slight vapor lock problem. You could sometimes actually hear the fuel boil in the carbs, crazy... The fuel line, was metal running along side the right side of the engine, to the fuel pump mounted on the engine, then it went around the front of the engine, so it would be warm before getting to the carbs that were to close to the exhaust.
Way back then I didn't know much, now I think it could have been fixed, with a electric pump and routing the fuel line differently.
One possible upgrade, 3 webers instead of the OEM carbs, not sure how much better that would be, but it has been done many times, so someone should be able to give you some info.
One of two cars I miss; 240Z and Porsche 928.
You will have great fun with this car.
Vapor locking is much more common on the flat top Hitachis and not so much on the round top SU's. I have the later factory added insulated wrap on the fuel lines and never a problem on the round tops or the triple Webers. Some people resort to adding a return style system to get a cooling effect that way but I never need it in 90+ heat in Atlanta traffic.
Big update! [Sarcasm]
My checklist for today consisted of 3 items.
1) change coolant. ✔
2) change oil. ✔
3) vacuum bleed rear brakes. Uh... not check.
Coolant was green and looked decent, no obvious rust or oil discoloration. Some sediment at the end, but that's to be expected considering the car sat for 6 years.
Oil was black, and smelled faintly of gasoline. Mixed in 1/2 quart of Marvel mystery oil to new crankcase oil.
Got vacuum bleeder on RR caliper bleeder and promptly snapped bleeder screw off. I will now be looking at either replacing rear brakes or swapping to disc rear. Would want to upgrade fronts at same time to maintain bias.
Still anxious to drive the car for first time.
No interesting pictures. Just one of bleeder screw snapped off.
oh bleeding brakes. My favorite.
birdmayne said:
TED_fiestaHP said:
I had one of these, great car, but had a slight vapor lock problem. You could sometimes actually hear the fuel boil in the carbs, crazy... The fuel line, was metal running along side the right side of the engine, to the fuel pump mounted on the engine, then it went around the front of the engine, so it would be warm before getting to the carbs that were to close to the exhaust.
Way back then I didn't know much, now I think it could have been fixed, with a electric pump and routing the fuel line differently.
One possible upgrade, 3 webers instead of the OEM carbs, not sure how much better that would be, but it has been done many times, so someone should be able to give you some info.
One of two cars I miss; 240Z and Porsche 928.
You will have great fun with this car.
I once had a 260Z, which was my baptism into Z fanhood. I learned how to tune these carbs, how to fab a heat shield to protect the carbs from heat soak, and how much fun they are.
Triple Webers, a bigger cam, 6-1 header, and heat shields is a fantastic baseline for fun. I am dreaming of a VQ37VHR swap though, 330hp V6 with a smooth 6 spd... yum.
My first failed project was a '71 240z. I had big dreams of triple webers, on those E33 heads, all to be mated to an L28 block...
I bought it out of a field for $500 in 2003. The seller said she parked it because of a tank of "bad gas".
I learned a lot about my abilities (or lack thereof) as a mechanic, the manner in which fields will rust a car, and about people who claim to have bought "bad gas".
Still, I've always wanted another.
I have officially driven the Z. Bled a bunch of air out of the master cylinder then limped around a couple of local blocks.
It was awful! The combination of exhaust leaks, improperly tuned carbs, misfires, blown suspension, shot bushings, no carpets, and just about everything else, made for a terrible experience. But, I smiled the entire time and am ecstatic! I can't wait to tear in to this thing more and fix it all.
240zs are notorious for interior exhaust smells. My 72 was fine if you kept moving but awful when driving slow or stopped. People go to a lot of effort to seal up the back end of the car. I never bothered since it is hard to really seal them well.
Congrats on the first drive!
In case you have not seen this:
In reply to preach (fs) :
I love the Homebuilt by Jeff channel. He impresses the hell out of me.
In other news, I picked up what appears to be an MSA 3-2 knockoff header for $60 today. Welds look solid, flanges look fine, just need some more piping to complete an exhaust upgrade.
I also had a conversation with a local guy selling a complete L28 (minus plugs and injectors) for $125. I might HAVE to go buy that tomorrow. Parts alone would net a profit there.
Assuming I buy the L28, my total amount of money spent on this car is at a whopping $450 (not counting fluids and oil filter)
Battery $160
Carb rebuild kit and gaskets $85
Rubber vacuum and fuel hoses $10
Header $60
L28 $125
Radiator cap $10
Will be purchasing proper NGK plugs tomorrow, so total will increase. May also order Datsun spirit plug wires.
This is great!
This project is coming along! Congrats
In today's installment of "Good news, Bad news" : engine successes, brake successes, picture successes, potential engine failures, tuning mishaps, cool pictures, exhaust leaks and dizzy smiles.
I'll elaborate on the above post.
I have been using a fairly "handy" tuning device, I affectionately refer to as a handometer. I haven't found my carb tuning kit, so I've been using the back of my hand to equalize the flow of the two carburetors. It's wildly inaccurate, needs some calibration and is prone to malfunction. However, despite the obvious limitations, I have managed to get the carbs pretty well even. The suction pistons rise simultaneously, idle is consistent and smooth, albeit a tad high at 1000 rpm.
The quick road test that I intended turned in to a trip to the gas station, dinner at the in-laws, taking the long way home and an impromptu ice cream run.
Things of note:
-the suspension is still terribly blown.
- I need to replace weatherstripping and vents, the exhaust smells are brutal.
- coolant gauge starts at the bottom then goes straight to the max, (do not pass GO, do not collect $200) I discovered steam shooting out of the overflow line on my radiator, which is why I smelled coolant while driving. My fear is that I have a blocked coolant passage, considering how much crud I scraped out of the coolant passages on my carbs.. I currently am running a bottle of Prestone radiator flush and water, but it may be too little too late.
- I need new seats, like yesterday...
-Holy E36 M3 this car is fun to zip around in, especially considering my daily is a 3/4 ton crew cab pickup and my work right are mostly semis and large road going cranes.
My current plan is to completely disregard the coolant gauge and continue to enjoy the car until it blows up.
I'm fairly disappointed to announce that I believe I have cleared the blocked coolant passage and thus fixed the overheating issue.
When I first filled the rad with Prestone flush and water, I had it parked on an incline, while idling and the heat on, so I was fairly confident it was properly full.
Yesterday I topped off the rad level, due to it steaming considerably out of the overflow tube. I added nearly two gallons to the system, and the car no longer overheats.
I was kinda hoping the engine would just blow up and justify a full swap / overhaul.
Love the story, following.
I am certain that something will "break" and force you to have to do that full swap. Happens on all of my cars, so confident it will happen to you too! Love the original Z car, enjoying the progress, please continue.
Thanks for the support! Nothing new to report, just day dreaming about engine swap options. I said no V8s, but the Nissan VH45DE makes some pretty spectacular noises...
I didn't purchase the local L28, the listing was $150, and the guy asked for $500 when I looked at it. It's currently listed at $350. I dislike shady dealings, so I walked away.
An RB26 would kick ass in that car. I don't know anything about them, except that they can make extreme power. I think you have to monitor the "danger to manifold" light.
I can't wait to see where this goes. 240Z is such an awesome car. I can't remember the last time I saw one.
You might want to confirm the distributor is doing it's job, correctly. The vacuum advance on these gets gummed up from a lack of maintenance, the side effects is overheating and a very poor idle.
Greatest car ever made. Congrats brother, if you go down the 1UZ route let me know I have the CAD a bell housing adapter plate to bolt a z32 trans on, plus all the other details. VH would be cool too, z32 clutch and flywheel bolts up but still need a bell housing adapter I believe.
Put 50 miles on the Z today. It still sucks.
NEED LIST:
Tires that aren't 15 yrs old
Brakes rebuilt, pulling left on application.
New suspension bushings, feels like some are slightly missing.
New struts & springs or coilovers
Sway bars and strut braces.
A not broken driver's seat.
A proper tune.
Wants:
Moar powa.
Manual trans
Stereo.
Sexy wheels.
Sexy paint.
Sexy body work.
Sexy interior.
birdmayne said:
Put 50 miles on the Z today. It still sucks.
Nope.
It's that sex/pizza comment. Even when it's bad, it's good.
Datsun310Guy said:
birdmayne said:
Put 50 miles on the Z today. It still sucks.
Nope.
It's that sex/pizza comment. Even when it's bad, it's good.
So good. I only put 50 miles on it because I got lost in the sensation of driving it.
