Another Loader Tractor Project

Project like this is rewarding. Just fix one hose or cylinder every time you use it. Make you want to keep using it and it will get more enjoyable the less leaks you have

How was it getting those new piston cups back in the cylinder? That neo-fab material is STIFF and tough to install without damaging the lips. Hope the rebuild fixes both the leaks and the drift!

In reply to hobiercr :

It wasn't too bad, I went to the thrift store and got a small crock pot to heat them in oil. The cylinder had a chamfer on the end so I was able to line them up carefully and ease it in, hopefully not damaging the lip. We'll see later today if that was successful when I get it fired up. 

The test run confirmed that the cylinders work and don't leak so it seems like I didn't mess it up too bad. I have one cylinder left with a major leak, one of the ones that controls the swing on the backhoe. It looks like the wiper is shot so I'll likely just order a wiper for that and do that along with o-rings, leaving the piston seals alone. A few others are weeping but not terrible yet. 

I was able to dig out a couple large honeysuckle stumps, move some dirt and plant 4 arborvitae before the loud exhaust wore me down, that's next on the list to fix. Also need to rebuild the carb at some point, the float sticks so if I forget to turn off the gas when I shut it down it floods. 

I was wondering what the crock pot in the garage was for.  I assumed that it wasn't for emergency borsch.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

I suppose it could be but the Dexron taste may be undesirable. 

In reply to EvanB :

If it's leaking out the head, look for a bad rod seal. Most wipers are not designed to seal in the fluid, just to keep crap from getting in.

Also, can't remember if I mentioned it but after you heat and install the piston seals on the piston you can cinch them in with a leather belt which will help compress them just a bit to get them installed. It's a minor change and there is enough memory in them to relax back to "normal." Plus, as soon as the fluid hits them with any pressure the lips will be forced out and seal against the bore.

Dad's IH of that vintage is full hydraulic steering.  If the engine stops turning and you're driving on the road you are SOL.  This appears to be hydraulic assist which in my mind is much better.

No more progress on this one other than collecting parts to make an exhaust that muffles. 

I did pick up a "parts" tractor for it today though. 

I found a 300 Utility on FBM and clicked out of interest. The ad mentioned that it came with a parts tractor so I messaged to see if they would be willing to sell it separately. They replied that it would be $850 and was complete, just had the bodywork disassembled and had run recently. I was interested in the 3 point (really 2 point fast-hitch) hitch and PTO since those are missing on mine. I went down to pick it up today and it looks complete and solid enough that I'll probably just get it running and put it back together to use as-is so I won't have to remove the backhoe from the other tractor to run 3 point implements. 

I love your project. Haven't rebuilt cylinders in a lot of years but we used to use an adjustable ring compressor to "tighten" the seals up to get them in the cylinder without tearing them. Greased them up with a lot of a white grease that I can't recall what it was called. It was compatible  with the hydraulic oil. If we didn't rechrome the rods, we would run a fine mesh sanding cloth and just take the edge off the gouges by lightly sanding the chrome. We did cylinders for everything from an old Ford 4500 farm tractor with a hoe attachment to a 100,000 lb Volvo excavator. It was always one of my favorite jobs to do when I worked in the shop as a helper. 

In reply to Iusedtobefast :

There is definitely a high level of satisfaction with that job. I also really enjoy the process of changing adapters and hoses to eliminate leaks.