Another P1800 build - All NB Miata from radiator to rear axle

In reply to senginc :

No I did not finalize the AC. The hose fabrication thing got the better of me since it is all new to me and became somewhat overwhelming trying to piece the parts together to join the factory mustang compressor to the Miata metric parts.  The lack of vocabulary  to even spec parts  makes this a lot of fun plus the lack of technical knowledge.  ie you mention "sanderson" and while I have heard the word, it really means nothing to me other than "old style compressor".

I did manage to locate one of the last few evaporators for the AC so if I ever get back on it at least that is done. I also have the tool to crimp the lines and a vacuum pump to test the results.

In reply to NOHOME :

I have installed 10-12 aftermarket A/C units over the last 35 years, so while I have no formal training, I have lots of successful installations. In the deep South A/C is MANDATORY .

The Sanden style 508 (aka SD5H14) compressor is a universal fit used on 75% of all modified cars and commonly has standard threaded hose connections either top or rear facing.  Available in both V-belt and serpentine belt pulleys.
I will NOT resuse the OEM style because it has special fittings to the compressor which pretty much kills easy aftermarket A/C hose installation. I am 99% certain your Ford compressor has special OEM ports on the compressor.

A little homemade bracket work makes the adapting of the Sanden style 508 compressor easy (I did this to my dad's 84 Jeep Cherokee about 35 yrs ago and saved about $100 on the install).

A typical top connection compressor (they come prefilled with the necessary PAG oil)  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YCTRV74/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AAJLT181W8SQO&psc=1

They are available black, natural aluminum, polished aluminum and chrome plated aluminum.

Hose kits or individual pieces including those with metric threads for the Miata evaporator are available here (I have bought from him many times). https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=johnjoysyl&store_cat=0&store_name=mrfomocomotorcraft&_oac=1&_nkw=reduced%20barrier%20ac%20hose

I will drop this link here because you are going to need to extend the steering shaft. I did not want to weld on this system and these people had the parts so that I could convert from Miata splines to double-d steering shaft.

http://www.woodwardsteering.com/

In reply to NOHOME :

The APCO catalog link - every possible A/C fitting with illustrations -

https://www.atcoproductsinc.com/wp-content/uploads/fittingsatco-fittings-catalog.pdf

Some very serious surgery required to get the steering rack under the air conditioner compressor OEM location.

Establishing horizontal and vertical center line of OEM rack location so that the rack mounting brackets can be positioned correctly after rolling rack back to clear A/C compressor

This huge cut will require internal stiffeners and some external stiffeners to restore crossmember structural integrity

A small notch for the right side rack mounting bracket

The round ball is the centerline of rack U joint input shaft to line up with the factory U-joint

Crossmember surgery in progress

Steering rack rotated backwards to clear OEM compressor location, lower U-joint is at an acceptable 30°. I am adding a 1x1x1/8" steel tubing under the rack to help stiffen the crossmember after cutting so deeply. More internal stiffeners to come and then 11 ga to line the the new recessed area.

That looks like a whole lot of fun. 

More progress

A/C Compressor bracket in progress using Vintage Air Slotted parts

Working on Crossmember mounting brackets due to frame stretch

Working on Motor mount brackets, I trimmed the bottom ~ 1/2 of the engine side motor mounts and tacked 11 ga horizontal for the mounts to sit under .  I am using Transdapt 9314 biscuit mounts - much easier to deal with than OEM mounts that are angled and if I need to raise the engine a little, shims can be added at anytime. I have used these mounts on about 10 engine transplants over the years. They have good vibration isolation and hold up well.

In reply to senginc :

thanks for sharing all these details! i always learn something on this forum.

Well the front crossmember is back in to stay after the surgery to roll the Rack and Pinion back to clear the A/C compressor.

I added a 1x1x1/8" steel tube at the bottom after removing so much from the top of crossmember and then flipped the crossmember over and welded a 1x2x1/8" steel tube behind that. I also gusseted the reinforcement to the lower control arm attachment points. I am satisfied that the crossmember is as strong as it was originally.

I got most of  the left side sheet metal removed. Now to remove all the excess metal around the A pillar in preparation of the first trial fit of the P1800 body.

If you're looking for a universal for that rack, I used one of these to mate to the NB rack in my pinto:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Sweet-MFG-Steering-U-Joint-11-16-In-36-Spline-to-3-4-In-Weld-On,136198.html?utm_content=ac1_prodimg&utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=campaign_2879715

I seem to remember the na/nb stuff being different spline sizes based on the year, so double check!

In reply to Shavarsh :

The new angle for the steering input is ~ 28 deg, well within the widely accepted 35 degree max for single u-joints, therfore I will be able to reuse the factory upper and lower u-joints. I will have to weld a yet to be determined (probably about 6") extension to the stock steering shaft.

In reply to senginc :

Steering shaft was one thing I could not bring myself to weld on. Went with spline to Double- D shaft u-joints. 

In reply to NOHOME :

Doesn't adding a double joint in addition to the factory upper joint require a support bearing to hold alignment ?

When I did not have factory u-joints I could reuse I always used Borgeson joints. The allen head set screw with it's jam nut never fully satisfied my OCD nature to have things really tight and strong. I always used Loctite on the threads but it still left me uneasy. If the little 1/4" dia set screw loosens then the double d shaft would wiggle severely with the potential for separation or sliding into the u-joint and binding.

I much prefer a pinchbolt style on the splined end over the set screw style. I don't recall ever seeing a screw style on an OEM connection.

For the safest shaft splice simply slide a smooth bore coupling on, this gives ample welding room and holds the shaft in decent alignment while welding.

senginc said:

In reply to NOHOME :

Doesn't adding a double joint in addition to the factory upper joint require a support bearing to hold alignment ?

"Double D" refers to the shape of the shaft.

In reply to senginc :

Awesome, I didn't realize you are using the stock steering shaft. That is a great solution.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

My old age brain read the word double which made me think of a "double" u-joint which they do make.

to NOHOME :

Did you ever make a hood latch ? Pics ?

Rusty rocker repair, 16 gauge inner flat plate, 18 gauge inner rocker formed on my old Harbor Freight brake.

Outer rocker will be 18 or 20 gauge depending on what I have on the shelf formed on my old Harbor Freight brake

Separated the front clip - a royal pain - surface rust in the gutter around the fenders made finding factory spot weld centers impossible for some.  Finally had to air chisel to finish separating. I will weld fresh metal on the inner fender structure where all the spot welds were drilled and stretched from the air chisel.

The front clip on this 1964 P1800 is too rough. I will use the front clip from the 1970 P1800 parts car when reassembling, I sure hope that it matches the 1964 car dimensions really close . I made a cardboard template of the fender cut point so I can transfer this to the new fender cuts.

Merging the P1800 to the Miata since I have the inner rockers rebuilt and stabilized - - -  finally

Second day progress after a lot of trimming interference. The rear is down within an inch or so of final height. Front needs to go down 2- 3" but I am studying my options before proceeding.

I hope to have the ride height about 1  1/2" lower than a stock P1800 (which has 165/80R15, 25.4" diameter).

I plan on running 195/65R15 (25" diameter) on Konig Rewind Silver Wheels with Machined Lip (15"x 7") RW7510040S  = + 40 mm offset. The big positive offset matches the original Miata wheels to avoid excessive fender flares (or maybe no flare).  I prefer running 205/65R15 (25.5" diameter) because the sidewall would be closer to the same height as the original tire size but I think fender flares would be a must and would crowd the Miata lower A arm on full lock.
Presently the tires and wheels in the pic are standard 195/50R15 (22.7" diameter) on factory wheels. To me the low profile small tires look lost in the big wheel wells and don't look proper for a P1800.

Those Miata wheels look pretty flush in the pictures. Is there enough room for the extra half inch the Konigs will protrude, especially with a much taller tire? I know NOHOME's car is close with a 6.5" wheel width and 48mm offset. I'd have to find his tire size to compare with what you're proposing.

In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :

Running 195-55-16 tires.

The rear arches are rolled and the fronts clear for the most part. Barely and kinda.

I started the project with these BBS wheels. 16" with a 40 mm offset. Sadly there was no way they were going to work unless I modified the arches. The Mini wheels were a lucky find.

The tires I have are 200 TW and even with the narrow thread they hook up just fine. If I were to turn the car into a project again, I would probably re-visit the wheel tire and wheel-arch specs to accommodate wider wheel-tire options. Having to repaint the car  afterwards is keeping me from looking down that road.

In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :

The Konig Rewind wheel  has a + 40 mm offset , which according to my searching, it is the same as the OEM NB Miata wheel on the car. The fact that the wheel is wider than OEM does not matter because the extra width is symmetrical front to rear. The cross section of the 195/65R15 tire is 7.9" according to Tire Rack and the  rim is 7".  The rim should not stretch the sidewall wider than it's design width even though the tire is wider at the rim. 

The 195-55-16 tires NOHOME is running has a 7.9" section width and a diameter of 24.4" (very close to my proposed 25" dia tire) according to Tire Rack.

Hopefully I will luck out although I will probably find like NOHOME that "The rear arches are rolled and the fronts clear for the most part. Barely and kinda."