In reply to NOHOME :
What is the rim width and offset of the Mini wheels you changed to ?
How did you "The rear arches are rolled " ?
In reply to NOHOME :
What is the rim width and offset of the Mini wheels you changed to ?
How did you "The rear arches are rolled " ?
In reply to senginc :
Do not recall the rim width at this moment but can look when I get to the shop, They are a 48 mm offset. I believe that the ND Miata is another source of wheels with the 48 mm offset.
I bought a fender roller to clearance the rear arches. I have not done anything to the fronts but should since there is one point of contact that happens if the wheels are turned hard and I hit a bump. Only happens at low speeds like entering driveways.
In reply to NOHOME and senginc :
The 16 inch R90 wheels are 16x6.5 ET48. Miata ND wheels are either 16x6.5, or 17x7, both appear to be 45mm offset. Mine are 17s and are 45mm.
Edit: Also (correct me if I'm wrong Pete) , NOHOME used NA rear suspension and this build is using NB? The NB hubs are 5mm further outboard on each side. These millimeters are all adding up to put the tire closer to the fender . If I'm doing the maths right that's 8mm of offset, plus 6mm of wheel width, plus 5mm of hub....19mm. Three quarters of an inch and we know how tight NOHOME's are already. If it were me, I'd buy one tire in your preferred size and mount it on one of the Miata wheels , just to be sure, before you order some nice shiny Rewinds.
For reference...MINI Cooper wheel chart....OEM Wheels and Tires | Mini Wiki | Fandom
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
Thanks, I had forgotten that my NB is indeed wider at the rear hubs (maybe a very little at the front also). I have a few rust pinholes around the rear fender lips so I will plan on flaring whatever small amount is needed (probably only on the top 45 -go degree sweep of the stock wheel lip and then blend going downward.
To NOHOME
Did you reuse the same wiper holes through the cowl when installing the new wiper system ?
I am vacillating between using the P1800 dash with aftermarket gauges and underdash HVAC and using the Miata dash.
The big upside using the Miata is it greatly simplifies wiring.
However, that ties me to future availability of parts (such as the instrument cluster, HVAC controls and HVAC evaporator, heater core and blower). For my piece of mind I would buy spares of each so that down the road a few years I don't brick the car because major alterations are required due to lack of available parts and I am no longer physically or mentally capable of the tasks (I will be already 75 this summer). 
The big upside of the P1800 dash (modified as req'd ) is the universal aftermarket gauges and underdash HVAC which will be available longer than i will live. Also I like that a casual observer would not realize the car is really a Miata.
A potential really big electrical obstacle could be that the OEM instrument cluster receives the raw speed signal on the Y and O wires but the OEM instrument cluster sends the speed signal to the ECM and OEM Cruise Control on a Wht/ Blk wire - does it alter the raw speed signal before sending to the ECM and OEM Cruise Control ? I don't know who can answer the question.
To NOHOME:
Were you able to get the HVAC ducts reconnected properly ?
To NOHOME:
I think I want to relocate my fuel tank to the trunk to make the fuel filler rubber and steel connections easier. My 1964 P1800 gas door is on the rear next to the trunk.
How did your custom tank and filler and tank vent system work out?
Any good pics other than what I have seen on your build posts?
The cowl is sitting in final height which lowers the car about 1 1/2 to 2" lower than Nohomes Molvo.
The Miata Dash is about 1' above windshield opening when the dash bolted to the transmission tunnel brackets only but sitting level.
I'm going to have to create a ~ 1" deep gutter to transition from the dash to the windsheild opening.
I am thinking I may install my front and rear glass in a bed of urethane or butyl windshield tape and then install the bright trim by gluing with weatherstrip adhesive or RTV or something that could easily be removed when replacing a windshield. I would have to close the gap around the glass with maybe a 1/4" of body filler so that the trim fits flush. I did this on a 1961 Rambler convertible in the 1990's because there was no windshield gaskets being reproduced at the time.
The Miata NB chassis fits inside the Volvo A pillar without cutting the corner brace (still need to lower body another 1")
Used Volvo wiper holes with no mods and the cable driven wipers
ALL Miata HVAC works like factory
I really liked being able to use the Miata wiring harness to wire the car. I have the factory wiring manual and it has already paid off when chasing circuits for troubleshooting needs. The Volvo wiring looks like something that was implemented when they were still discovering electricity.
I see the Miata as being at least as long lived as the Volvo as far as finding parts is concerned. Hence why I veered to Miata rather than Volvo wiring and gauges.
I do not understand why you don't line up the dash and window opening and call it a day? That would be the best of both worlds from my experience.
I do not know if Keith follows this thread, but he would have the answer to your VSS question when it comes to the cruise control.
Warren is also correct in that I do have a bit of a mongrel; 91 suspension on on a 96 tub. Wheel clearance is a matter of mm and camber. I suspect that lowering the car would make things worse.
I tried some lowered coil-overs and that was not going to work or give the look I wanted.
About the fuel tank. I moved it because I needed the flat rear deck. It made my exhaust much harder to build because muffler now needs to be under the car. I have ideas on how I would do it different, but that ship has sailed. The "Fill from the bottom" experiment did not make it past the cutting room. Went with a Tanks Inc 16 gallon tank from a 52 Chev and an in- tank fuel pump.
Kinda see how the tank ended up
In reply to NOHOME :
Thanks so much for the info.
I am looking to get it lower about like this Volvo P1800 Cyan Racing.
I am still finalizing the ride height considerations.
However, I am not opposed to modifying the Miata dash to slope properly towards the windshield, although I would likely loose the defrost vents (no big beal to me, I don't intentionally drive my old cars in the rain anyway).
I plan on epoxy primering the dash so I can skim coat body filler so that I have a smooth painted dash that appears metal.
In reply to senginc :
Once you decide that body mods to the wheelwells are acceptable, its a whole new game. My goal was to make it so that nobody knew the car was not a stock Volvo. 
In reply to NOHOME :
What resistance sending unit did you use for fuel level. From what I have read the Miata sending unit is an odd value.
In reply to senginc :
Bought a device that recalibrates any fuel sender to match any fuel gauge regardless of ohm values. Works great. Before you ask, I totally forgot where it came from or exactly what I typed into amazon to find it!
Pete
Why are chassis swap builds always so fascinating?
Something old surrounding something new. This fun to watch happening, way beyond my capabilities.
Thank you for pulling this off.
loosecannon said:Why are chassis swap builds always so fascinating?
Kinda like dating twins; you hope for the best of both worlds.
Maybe use Miata cable operated trunk latch for hood latch.
Bolt to a homemade bracket that can be removed via the removable cowl vent grill if it ever get stuck ??
It will crowd the back of the Miata engine and the brake lines that run on the top of the firewall, but maybe doable.
In reply to senginc :
or use two, one on each side, so as to not crowd up the cowl right behind the engine? could be easily controlled by a single cable into cockpit, just need to fab a bracket or two.
In reply to senginc :
My MINI has two hood releases operated by one handle with two separate cables. It should be easy to find someone parting out a car .
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I want to be able to remove the removable cowl vent grill for access to the latch bolts if the latch ever gets stuck. This means that the latch must be placed in front of the cowl vent grill.
If two latches are installed that doubles the probability of a latch getting stuck (loose cable or whatever). With the latch at the edge there is no access.
I am using the Miata firewall and trough which seals the Volvo upper cowl section where a latch would be located. I suppose there may be some way to devise access through the multiple layers of metal to gain access to the latch bolts.
The original P1800 hood latch was on left and right with a steel tube linking the two. The latch mechanism was accessible from under the cowl inside the car if it ever got stuck.
Floor to inner rocker 18 ga angle temporarily screwed in place. The bottom of the inner rocker to the Miata floor is 3".
Inner rocker welded to floor from bottom first (3" from floor to lower edge of rocker). 
Floor to inner rocker splice right side .
Inner quarter splice left side with .75 in emt conduit split for wires to rear of car along the floor to inner rocker interface. 
Tail pipe location using Miata stock exhaust and hangars.
Inner layer of A pillar welding.
Upper cowl to A pillar welding right side.
Front clip back on for measuremments.
Front suspension fully collapsed with 195/50R15 OEM Miata tires and wheels, 22.7 dia 6” rim. Wheel well modifications definitely required to allow for lock to lock turns and larger diameter tires.
Somehow my measurements or body placement has the tire centerline about 1/2- 3/4" to far to the rear. I will compensate for this with the wheel well work. The tire is sitting on a 2x4 to allow the lift to to drop from the rockers.
The OEM Strut assembly is ~ 14" full collapsed with 4.4" of upward travel. So ride height will be about 2" up from this pic.
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