Finally got a bit of time to dig in to issues on the cat. Today, I'm addressing the header bolts that regularly back themselves out. This is something I routinely deal with twice a season and I don't want to do that anymore-Nord-Lock to the rescue! These stainless steel locking washers are touted to not allow the fasteners to loosen under extreme heat and vibration. We'll see how they work this summer! 
After locking everything down I still had a slight leak. I ordered a set of copper exhaust gaskets from Summit and started to install them. DS went alright but slow. Access is a PITA. Passenger side went faster but one bolt just won't start. I'm removing the PS header to chase the threads hoping that will help.
On the positive side, the core exercises I've been doing make this less of a chore.
Opened up the copper header gasket holes a bit and determined that the offender has been slightly buggered up over the 50 or so years it's been in use. Got it in and locked down. Tomorrow reassemble the exhaust and get it out and about!
Nice! It's always good to see progress on this one.
Fired up and as quiet as before! Success!
Met a buddy for breakfast today. Car ran well but I noticed I need to tweak the exhaust system as muffler is rotated a bit outta line.
Been piling on miles but now I have some time to accomplish some long overdue tasks. Quite some time back I bought a 393" Cleveland from my buddy. Today I'm breaking it down for refinishing prior to loading it in to my car. Last fall I did a degrease and wipe down and today I'm pulling parts to ready it for paint. The intake and valve covers will be bead blasted and the block and heads will be painted black.
Really Edelbrock? No clearance on that water neck bolt at all! This injustice will not stand...up to a carbide bit on my die grinder.
A big-inch Cleveland with a roller cam?!?! Good times in your future, I predict!
Yessir! 393" stroker with Scat crankshaft, forged rods and pistons, roller cam, deep oil pan, mini-starter, big alternator, Air Gap RPM intake, ported Aussie 2V Cleveland heads with Crane ignition system (defunct), big ole Holley carb and dyno sheets and videos-mid 400's torque and HP at 5000rpm. My friend described it as a ripper when it was in his '70 Mustang. Should be at least 150HP and similar torque above existing Cleveland in the car now.
Balancer now off as well as front cover which is an OEM stamping that seals the back of the water pump on one face and the timing chain cavity on the other. It's pretty corroded on the water pump side and I have a new aluminum replacement for it. I'm moving my water pump from the engine in the car after I pull it. Time to clean up now for dinner after cleaning up the garage
Balancer now off as well as front cover which is an OEM stamping that seals the back of the water pump on one face and the timing chain cavity on the other. It's pretty corroded on the water pump side and I have a new aluminum replacement for it. I'm moving my water pump from the engine in the car after I pull it. Time to clean up now for dinner after cleaning up the garage
I wanted to replace the air filter with a taller one but that necessitated a new offset stud as I determined I could fit a taller filter element and still have good clearance. Amazon to the rescue.
Wiped the rain water off and took a quick rip up to M1 for a Cars & Coffee this morning. Pretty light attendance but still a good time.
This was pretty early and the infield did fill up more. Newer model year cars were relegated to the track run-off areas as this was a classic focused event.
Cougar's looking good, amigo!
Thanks Recon1342!
I wrapped up some lighting issues-brake and turn signals-Sunday but need to work on the cancel cam to shut the turn signals back off. An aftermarket steering wheel and reproduction switch are making things difficult. Thinking of options now to get these two to align and engage.
I've been wanting to add a shut off valve on the water supply line to the heater core for some time now and decided that today was the day. I also wanted to replace the crusty water neck and add a coolant strainer to the upper radiator hose while I was in there and the coolant was drained. I pulled the radiator cap and noted that the coolant level was a bit low. That's a first. I then noted the lower subframe by the lower hose connection was wet. So off to the races!
A quick text to my buddy at my radiator supplier confirmed that should the radiator be leaking they could fix it. Roll underneath and open the petcock, pull the upper rad hose and water neck, scrape gasket and pull the t-stat. Pulled the heater core delivery (from block) and return (to water pump) hoses then start working on pulling the lower hose and the radiator. Here's where 2017 me decisions start to bite me-fan wiring! In 2017 I knew I needed a disconnect for future serviceability. As the fan connection needs to be water tight and is a high amp load I hard wired it in with a firm commitment to myself to find a proper Weatherpak or Deutsch connector then address this in the near future. Well that didn't happen. So I'm now working to unbolt them from one another while in the car. Blech. I hope this is nothing more than a loose hose clamp but I have my doubts.
While I'm in there I'm cleaning up dirty greasy bits and will be adding some new bits too.
Yes Angry, I'll take the plastic wrap off the water neck.
Didn't realize a repower was in your future should be a great combo!
Link to the cutoff? That looks slick.
Norma66-Brent said:Didn't realize a repower was in your future should be a great combo!
Yeah, I've been sitting on this 393" Cleveland for too long now. Goal is to get through the next few weeks with the Detroit car craziness then after Labor Day R&R motors. Sell the existing Cleveland to offset some of my investment in the new-to-me motor.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Its an inline strainer for the coolant. Screen is curved so they specify direction of flow. Cap comes off and strainer assembly lifts out. Aeroflow in Australia offers a bunch of cool bits that are Cleveland specific as well as some cool universal bits. I've got a new aluminum backing plate for water pump, timing pointer, fuel pump block off plate, distributor clamp along with the water neck and strainer. These will move to the new motor during the changeover.
Hmmm, bottom of radiator looks clean and dry. Lower radiator hose did have some witness marks and recirc tank could have spit some fluid but that seems unlikely. I've figured out an intermediate wiring system with an Anderson connector I had on hand. Not ideal as they're not watertight but it'll get me over the immediate need while I research 30amp capable water tight disconnects.
So tomorrow I install the shut off (picture incoming tomorrow Michael-stainless steel ball valve with barbed fittings sourced from Amazon), clean off the front of the motor with my new found clearance, then drop the radiator back in and fill it with new green juice.
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